Lemon Tea Tree is a fine, strong citrus, scented essential oil with many therapeutic qualities.
Leptospermum petersonii flowers and essential oil from Prima Fleur
By Jeanne Rose
COMMON NAME/LATIN BINOMIAL ~ Lemon Tea Tree (Leptospermum petersonii) Bailey
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OTHER COMMON NAME/NAMING INFORMATION ~ From the Greek woes and referring to the slender (leptos) seeds (sperma) and named after W. J. Peterson, who was the original collector in 1905 and described in the Queensland Agricultural Journal from a specimen collected by W.J. Peterson on Wilsons Peak in January 1905.– Wikipedia
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FAMILY ~ Myrtaceae. Myrtaceae, or the Myrtle family, is a family of dicotyledonous plants placed within the order Myrtales of the Family Myrtaceae. Myrtle, Allspice, Bay Rum tree, Clove, Eucalyptus, and Guava are some notable members of this group. All species are woody, with flower parts in multiples of four or five and with essential oils and flower parts in multiples of four or five.
Leptospermum petersonii F.M. Bailey and Eucalyptus gunnii Hook.f. belong to the Myrtaceae family. This plant family comprises of at least 3000 species widely distributed in several tropical and warm-temperate areas, such as Australia and Central and South America (Mabberley, 1997)). Many EOs produced by the Myrtaceae species have been reported for their insecticidal, nematocidal, anti-inflammatory, and antifungal activities and are used as antimicrobial agents in cosmetic products1.
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COUNTRIES OF ORIGINS ~ Endemic to Australia, a few species in New Zealand and SE Asia
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ENDANGERED OR NOT ~ This is a very hardy tree that is in leaf all year. This species is hermaphrodite, having both female and male organs, and it is pollinated by insects. It is not endangered at this time, but it is regarded as a weed in some places.
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GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH ~ An evergreen shrub, hardy, up to 3-7 m. native to southern Queensland and north NSW. Bright green leaves, narrow with a strong lemon order. Used as a street tree in various areas.
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PORTION OF PLANT USED FOR EXTRACTION, EXTRACTION METHODS; DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, AND YIELDS ~ Steam Distillation — Leaves and Small Stems
YIELDS ~ 0.5%, if distilled when flowering, yield is lower.
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ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS OF LEMON TEA TREE
LEMON TEA TREE OIL DESCRIPTION This is a pale to medium yellow oil, clear, non-viscous, and watery, with a medium-intensity odor (5 on a scale of 1-10). The scent is a strong citrus-green lemon odor, with an herbaceous subsidiary note and a light floral back note. It is slightly numbing to the tongue.
Color – medium-yellow
Clarity – clear
Viscosity – non-viscous
Intensity of odor – 5
ODOR DESCRIPTION/ AROMA ASSESSMENT ~ A somewhat strong, and pleasant odor of citrus with fruity and herbaceous notes as well.
Chemical profile ~ 45-65% citral (neral + geranial) 21.6% ; citronellal 2-3% ; isopulegol, citronellol, geraniol 1.7% ; linaloöl ; traces of many other chemicals
PROPERTIES AND USES and ESSENTIAL OIL PROPERTIES Anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, anti-viral, anti-histamine, sedative, insect repellent., tea flavorant.
APPLICATION/ SKINCARE ~ USES Use directly on cold sores or herpes, apply around ears to relieve vertigo, use in creams or lotions as insect repellent or diffuse to cleanse the air and repel insects. Good addition to cosmetics and toiletries.
Due to its antiseptic properties, this oil is helpful for general skin cleansing. It is also beneficial for the aromatherapy treatment of oily, acne-infected skin areas.
‡Can be a Skin irritant.
Inhaled for deep respiratory infections or infections of the sinus and bronchi, apply to aching muscles and joints.
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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ EMOTIONAL/ENERGETIC USE ~ The mystery of aromatherapy —Get to know the elusive essence that is able to create such a variety of emotional and physical changes.
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BLENDING & PERFUMERY ~ Due to the presence of citral, wherever you have used an oil such as Litsea cubeba ( May Chang), you can substitute Lemon Tea Tree. It will give the blend a slight turn of scent but is most enjoyable to smell. This oil is best used in smaller quantities as a bridge note or connecting note.
CITRAL – Geranial + neral are stereoisomers and together = citral
(A stereo or optical isomer is an identical mirror-image form of a component, one occurring in ‘d’ or dextro=right or clockwise form and the other in ‘l’ or laevo=left in counter-clockwise form. Think of looking at your hand and then looking at it in the mirror.) Citral, an aldehyde that is also part of the chemistry of citrus oils, always occurs as a mixture of its stereoisomers. Part of the odor of the Chypre scent is less than 1%. When added to a perfume formula, it breaks down over time into hemiacetals. This means that it can overpower a formula. If your perfume has aldehydes, remember to keep them at 1-2% of the total synergy and no more.
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Bridge notes that contain hydro-citronellal or citral components such as Litsea cubeba, Lemon Tea Tree, or Backhousia, along with Styrax resin, bring together volatile top notes of citrus such as Bergamot or Orange with those deep and earthy bottom notes such as Vetivert and Labdanum. These citral notes are very tenacious in a blend or perfume, and I like to describe them as ‘doubling in size’ as the perfume is allowed to rest and age. Of course, this is not truly correct, but you must be careful using Litsea or any like scent as it does seem to ‘grow’ in scent.
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Lemon Tea Tree Blends well with Cedarwood, Chamomiles, citrus odors, Eucalyptus, Ginger, Palmarosa, and more, such as Patchouli, Labdanum, Oakmoss, and Ylang. Battaglia recommends the use of May Chang with the following essential oils: Basil, Bergamot, Geranium, Ginger, Jasmine, Rose, Rosemary, and Rosewood.
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HYDROSOL ~ I managed to obtain many branches from a pruned Lemon Teatree over 20 years ago. It grows well in Golden Gate Park Arboretum. I took this to a distiller, and we distilled about 3 gallons of lovely, fragrant Lemon Tea Tree hydrosol. I used it in skin toners, bathing rituals, wipe-downs after gym, and simply as a spray on my face and body. I really enjoyed this tart, lemon-scented hydrosol. It is an easy plant to grow and can be kept hedge like, perfect for harvesting for hydrosol.
PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components. Most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.
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CULINARY—The leaves are strongly lemon-scented and can be used to brew a strongly aromatic tea or as a flavoring to China tea. They have also been studied as a potential food preservative.
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HERBAL USE ~ The leaf of Lemon-scented Teatree is also used as a flavoring ingredient in boutique tea blends with standard black tea, Camellia sinensis.
I have used large amounts of Lemon Tea Tree as a bathing herb to help my skin.
Please Note: Most commercially available therapeutic Leptospermum honey is derived from flowering Leptospermum scoparium (Manuka) plants from New Zealand.
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KEY USE ~ Use of the essential oil and in scenting tea.
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HISTORICAL USES & INTERESTING INFORMATION ~ Leptospermum petersonii, commonly known as Australian Rose (lemon-scented tea tree), is a rare little tree, naturally occurring in lowland or floodplain areas in Northern New South Wales. Previous literature proposed the existence of three chemical varieties of this species based on the composition of its EO (Brophy et al., 2000). At present, there is no knowledge of indigenous uses of L. petersonii. However, other species of the same genus are known to be used in traditional medicine, such as Leptospermum flavescens Sm., used in Malaysia as a way to relieve stomach disorders and menstrual disorders1
Lemon myrtle and lemon-scented tea tree essential oils as potential inhibitors of green mold on citrus fruits by Rahman, Wills, Bowyer, Golding, Kirkman, and Pristijono. Pages 524-533 | Accepted 23 Nov 2021, Published online: 10 Jan 2022. This study examined the ability of essential oils (EOs) obtained from the Australian native plants, Lemon myrtle (Backhousia citriodora) (LM) and Lemon-scented tea tree (Leptospermum Peterson) (LSTT) to inhibit the in vivo growth of Penicillium digitatum in citrus fruits. The main constituent of LM and LSTT EOs was citral at 85 and 64%, respectively. ……… A 10-sec dip in citral did not cause rind injury but was less effective for mold inhibition. The findings suggest Lemon Myrtle EO as an alternative to synthetic fungicides to inhibit wastage in citrus during storage, particularly for organic produce.
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Jeanne Rose, 2023. May not be reproduced without permission. aromaticplant@yahoo.com
BIBLIOGRAPHY – Elliott, W. Rodger, and David L. Jones. Encyclopaedia of Australian Plants Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press. Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999 Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, California: Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose & Berkeley, California: North Atlantic Books, 1992 Webb, Mark A. Bush Sense, private communications of case studies.
REFERENCES – Front Microbiol. 2020; 11: 409. Published online 2020 Apr 15. doi: 10.3389/fmicb.2020.00409. 1.PMCID: PMC7174609. PMID: 32351456. Chemical Composition and Biological Activities of the Essential Oils of Leptospermum petersonii and Eucalyptus gunnii(Lis-Balchin 2000, Lee et al 2004, Park et al 2011
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SOME CAUTIONS TO REMEMBER for all Plants and their Parts
PATCH TEST: If applying a new essential oil to your skin, always perform a patch test on the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then, apply a loose band-aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas.—The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64
Synopsis: Basil chemotypes for daily care and perfumery, used in many therapeutic formulas, is widely grown, and healing to mind and body. A detailed synopsis of uses and properties.
Basil Essential Oil & Hydrosol Profile ~ a plant of many mysteries
By Jeanne Rose
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COMMON NAME/LATIN BINOMIAL ~ Basil is Ocimum basilicum. There are several chemotypes. Holy Basil or Tulsi Basil is Ocimum sanctum or O. tenuiflorum sometimes mistakenly named Basilicum sanctum.
Other Common Name/Naming Information – Basil (Ocimum mimimumorbasilicum is called cooking Basil, great Basil, St. Joseph’s plant or just Basil and Holy Basil or Tulsi (Ocimum tenuiflorum or O. sanctum). They are treated as annuals although some act as perennial. Holy basil contains eugenol and depending on the species and cultivar and it has a strong, herbaceous, often sweet smell. The leaves may taste somewhat like anise, but for me, it is only slightly licorice or anise scented. Family – Lamiaceae family. There are several species and hybrid species, varieties and also chemotypes (chemical varieties) depending mainly on what men decide they want but also on terroir especially changes in chemistry caused by elevation and other factors such as bloom time and the time of year the plant is harvested.
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COUNTRIES OF ORIGINS ~ Basil is known for thousands of years, by the Greeks and the Romans, and probably originated in India. Ocimum tenuiflorum (synonym Ocimum sanctum), commonly known as Holy Basil, tulasi, or tulsi, which is native to the Indian subcontinent and widespread as a cultivated plant throughout the Southeast Asian tropics. It is revered as the ‘elixir of life’.
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HARVEST LOCATION ~ Basil linalool and chavicol type from Egypt, Holy Basil from India.
ENDANGERED OR NOT ~ Basil is not endangered although there are some native species that are.
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GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH. This plant is generally considered a tender annual. The seeds are sown directly into the ground, it likes a sunny location with well-drained soil, thinned or transplanted to 12 inches apart, water deeply every 10 days (or so), and chopped and distilled before it forms flowers. Basil is best used fresh, whether for culinary use or distillation.
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Several varieties/chemotypes can be grown
Cinnamon basil – Ocimum sp., this refers to a number of different varieties of Basil that are related because of their spicy odor, 18″. This variety offers dark green shiny leaves and pink flowers.
Lemon basil – O. x basilicum ‘Citriodorum’, a hybrid of African and American basil, 12″-18″. Fine-leafed plant with distinct lemon fragrance.
Lettuce Leaf basil – O. crispum, 15″. A large leaf variety of Basil with large, crinkled green leaves which have a sweeter flavor and milder scent than other varieties.
Opal basil – O. basilicum. ‘Purpurascens’, an improved variety of dark purple Basil. 12″-18″. A variety that has red-purplish foliage and pink flowers.
Spicy Globe – O. basilicum, 8″-10″. Has green foliage and is a small, compact plant size. and spicy scent.
Thai basil – O. basilicum., 24″-36″. An upright, plant with flavor and fragrance distinctly different from other basils.
Mountain Rose Herbs lists three types of Basil. Krishna (Ocimum tenuiflorum) is known for its medicinal value and peppery crisp taste. Rama (Ocimum sanctum) is known for its cooling and mellow flavor. Vana (Ocimum sp.), aka. “forest type”, is known for its fragrance.
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• The seeds from Strictly Medicinal seeds in Oregon (formerly Horizon Herbs). Photo credited to Andrea Lay
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PORTION OF PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS AND YIELDS ~ Plant is harvested prior to the flowers and the leaves are steam- or hydro-distilled. Yield – Depending on the season when distilled, the yield is 0.1% to 1.66%.
ODOR DESCRIPTION/ AROMA ASSESSMENT ~ Basil is a good example of how a chemotype alters the scent of a plant. Basil can grow in various areas from the very hot to the less hot. The hotter the area the more that the Basil will reflect the heat by producing more chavicol. If the area is higher in altitude, the Basil may produce more Linalool. Besides the many botanicals varieties of Basil, all with varying odors to complicate the matter there are also chemotypes (chemical varieties).
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CHEMISTRY OF BASIL CHEMOTYPES
A chemotype describes a plant that have the same morphological characteristics (relating to form and structure) but produce different quantities of chemical components in their essential oils.
In Basil, there are chemotypes CT chavicol, CT eugenol, CT linalool, and CT thymol, . Light intensity and higher temperature encourages camphor. High altitude often encourages linalool; and eugenol and thymol often have to do with the heat of the climate.
Basil Chavicol or methyl chavicol (aka estragole), is very strongly herbaceous odor, not for perfumery, and is better in household products or soap.
Basil eugenol, high in eugenol, found in the “production of new types of basil oils grown in Indiana are rich in specific chemical constituents that have application in new products will require a close relationship with both essential oil brokers and end-processors.” It has a spicy clove-like scent.
Basil Holy has a strong herbaceous and spicy odor with a slight green and fruity back note.
Basil linalool. This CT (CT = chemotype or chemical variety) is gently medicinal and has a sweet, green odor, very fine to use in perfumery, and any products that are used for the younger persons.
Basil thymol smells spicy and astringent and best for applications more medicinal in nature.
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Classifying by chemotype is more prevalent now than it was 10-15 years ago. Another way to say it is that chemotype (chemical variety) refers to the particular plant that have the same morphological (body shape) characteristics, but which produce different quantities of the chemical constituents in the resultant essential oil.
Chemical Components – The strong clove scent of sweet basil (Basil CT eugenol) is derived from eugenol, the same chemical as actual cloves. Scent and chemistry is different depending on the season and the variety. The various Basils have such different scents because the herb has a number of chemotypes that come together in different proportions. (“The essential oil composition over the different seasons was quite idiosyncratic, in which the principal components of one season were either trivial or totally absent in another”.)1. The strong clove scent of sweet Basil is derived from eugenol, the same chemical as actual cloves. Basil and Oregano contain large amounts of (E)-beta-caryophyllene, BCP, which might have a use in treating inflammatory bowel diseases and arthritis. BCP is the only product identified in nature that activates CB2 selectively; it interacts with receptors (CB2), blocking chemical signals that lead to inflammation, but without triggering mood-altering effects. Use in blends for perfume or for scent.
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The citrus scent of lemon Basil and lime Basil reflects their higher portion of citral, which causes a healing lung effect evident in several plants including Melissa officinalis, and of limonene, which gives actual lemon peel its scent. African blue Basil has a strong camphor smell because it contains camphor and camphene in higher proportions. Licorice Basil contains anethole, the same chemical that makes Anise smell like Licorice, and in fact is sometimes called “Anise basil.”
Other chemicals that help to produce the distinctive scents of many Basils, depending on their proportion in each specific variety or breed, include: 1,8-cineole, beta-caryophyllene, camphor, citronellol (in scented geraniums-the Pelargoniums, Roses, and Citronella), eugenol, fenchyl acetate, linalool (a floral scent that is also in Coriander), linalyl acetate, methyl eugenol, myrcene (most types of Bay leaf, Hops, Thyme), pinene (which is, as the name implies, the chemical that gives pine oil its scent), ocimene, terpineol, trans-ocimene. • Tulsi Basil essential oil has been found to consist mostly of eugenol (~70%), β-elemene (~11.0%), β-caryophyllene (~8%) and germacrene (~2%), with the balance being made up of various trace compounds, (mostly terpenes). • Basil and Oregano contain large amounts of (E)-beta-caryophyllene (BCP), and these might have a use in treating inflammatory bowel diseases and arthritis.
BLENDING AND PERFUMERY
BASIL Blends Best with most of the Mediterranean herbs such as Lavender, Marjoram, Rosemary, and Sage, and with most of the seed oils; it modifies and softly changes the green scents in perfumerysuch as Galbanum, Mugwort and even Violet leaf, and the stronger conifer scents such as Redwood or Sequoia.
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Citrus/Green Formula Blending/Perfumery ~ This green, spicy note works well with citrus and is used as a bridge or a full note in many commercial perfumes.
Top Note ~30 drops of combinations of Citrus oils such as Bergamot, Lemon, Tangerine Heart Note ~12 drops of Basil (linalool will be softer, Holy Basil stronger, do not use Basil chavicol or Basil thymol) Bridge or in Heart Note ~ 5-10 drops of a green note such as Coriander seed or Galbanum Base Note ~ 20-30 drops of Atlas Cedar and Vetivert
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I want to thank PRIMA FLEUR BOTANICALS for their ongoing assistance to provide the new essential oils for these essential oil blog posts as well as their support to provide better information for the entire aromatherapy community.
GENERAL PROPERTIES of BASIL
Basil CO2from the leaves, Ocimum basilicum & O. sanctum, has a strong Basil smell and is more like the Basil taste and smell than the steam-distillate of the leaves. It can be used wherever the SD is used and in culinary as well. Try a bit in your hair care products for that refreshing, distinctive Basil odor and stimulating quality. In perfumery, it is both sweet and spicy. Basil always blends well with Bergamot, Clary Sage, Clove Bud, Lime, Juniper, Lemon, Neroli, and Rosemary.
Holy Basil, O. sanctum
For the Properties and Uses of Basil, also check my books, Herbs & Things, Herbal Body Book, The Aromatherapy Book, and 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols, you will find more information there.
Properties are by (AP=application by IG=ingestion or IN=inhalation).
AP – application – it is antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory, analgesic, antibacterial, anti-infectious, and antibiotic.
IG – ingestion – as stomachic, antispasmodic, digestive tonic, possibly an intestinal antiseptic, and carminative.
IN – inhalation – as restorative, general stimulant, maybe an emmenagogue
Please be aware of which chemotype you are using as the eugenol and thymol types can be an irritant on the skin.
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PROPERTIES AND USES ~ Tulsi Basil has been shown to have some antibacterial activity against E. coli and S. aureus and is better known as an adaptogen and astringent herb used as an Ayurveda remedy for various things including removing stress and for longevity. Also, it is used in Thai cuisine and as an insect repellent when leaves are added to stored foods and grains. Sweet Basil and other Basil types are stimulant, anti-bacterial, some types are more to less slightly to very medicinal.
Herbal Body/Hair Care – Basil that wonderful, delicious smelling herb which loses most of its scentual delight when dried is best used fresh in your creations. Quickly dry and mash to a powder, mix with powdered sweet Lavender and brush into the hair to perfume it.
Or take 3 ounces of neutral spirits, get quality product from http://www.Organicalcohol.com, add 7 drops of sweet Lavender EO and 7 drops sweet Basil EO, shake well, and add ½ ounce Lavender hydrosol and succuss. Use this to perfume and treat your hair to help health and growth.
Jeanne Rose Formula for Split Ends and Hair Growth – Occasionally as needed, use 1 tsp. of Olive oil that you have added 1 drop each of Basil oil and Rosemary oil. Apply this to the scalp and massage in thoroughly. Let this sit overnight, shampoo in the morning. This is for healthy hair, hair growth and to reduce split ends. Also, make an infusion of the herbs of Basil and Rosemary. Use the fresh herbs if possible. Use the strained infusion as a rinse after your shampoo and as a spray on the hair when needed. For a more complete formula and uses on the hair, refer to of Jeanne Rose’s Herbal Body Book, p. 70.
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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ Basil EO when used in the diffuser, particularly with Rosemary and Lavender oil is a brain and memory stimulant. But Basil is strong and pungent, use Basil linalool here and use the diffuser or inhaler only briefly and moderately for best effect.
Emotional/Energetic Use: When inhaled, this Basil oil is considered to reduce depression, relax the mind after intellectual overwork, soothe the nerves and reduce stress. This is used by inhalation, a drop in the palms of the hand, rub hands together briskly and then inhale the scent. Holy Basil has strong ritualistic and energetic uses.
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HYDROSOL: Basil hydrosol is just a wonderful product; however, its scent depends on which chemotype you use. It can be added to a hair conditioner or hair application to stimulate growth and for hair loss; a teaspoon in a glass of water or carbonated water can be calming and to soothe a fiery feeling or it can be used in foods such as vegetables and pasta. Basil hydrosol has a slight licorice taste and is a digestive.
Basil Oils and Tulsi Hydrosol
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CULINARY USE ~ This sweet, spicy herb Basil is a very important flavoring herb for the kitchen, it was used extensively to flavor turtle soup and is perfect, always, with Tomato. Fresh Basil is best but, in a pinch, you can use 1-drop of Basil oil on two ounces of the dried herb. Toss the mixture and store away in an airtight container in the dark while the scent infuses the dried herb. You can also chop fresh Basil and just cover with a good quality Olive oil and store in the fridge until needed. Use sooner rather than later. For pesto sauce, pound fresh Basil with Olive oil, Pine nuts, Parsley, Garlic, Parmesan, and salt and pepper and use this on pasta, freshly sautéed Onions or spread on toasted bread, vegetables, or salad.
Pesto Sauce is a blend of basil, pine nuts, garlic, olive oil, and Parmesan cheese. The Basil itself used in a traditional Pesto Genovese is a special type grown only in Italy. Only the top two sets of leaves are harvested for the Pesto and it makes a completely different tasting foodstuff than what we make in the USA.
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HERBAL USE ~ Herb Basil is added to honey and Nutmeg and used to ease diarrhea and some say as a tea to ease childbirth pain. Basil leaves with Comfrey and Rosemary make an excellent cleansing bath herb formula.
Look at Jeanne Rose Herbal Body Book for a host of uses.
Basil Leaf
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INTERESTING AND HISTORICAL INFORMATION ~ InGerard’s Herbal, “The juice mixed with fine meal of parched barley, oil of Roses, and Vinegar, is good against inflammations, and the stinging of venomous beasts”, and Nicholas Culpeper noted of Basil that “Galen and Dioscorides were against it, that it would not grow with Rue and it helped a deficiency of Venus on the one kind but spoils all her actions in another.” The Oxford English Dictionary quotes speculations that Basil may have been used in “some royal unguent, bath, or medicine“. Basil is still considered the “king of herbs” by many cookery authors.
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KEY USE ~ Various CT (chemotypes) are used in perfumery, hair care, and to inhale as a brain ‘tonic’. See ‘375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols” for more information, pages 46-48.
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JEANNE ROSE’S (TOMATO TALES) BASIL EO
Jeanne Rose’s (Tomato Tales) Basil EO ~ My first experience with the essential oil of Basil was not a positive one. This was in 1970 and what I was smelling had no relationship to the sweet herb Basil I was used to having in my cooking. I learned from old texts that the essential oil could be a tonic to my hair, and I also knew that Rosemary EO and herb were used for hair growth. I decided to combine these two and made a hair tonic with Basil and Rosemary oil and Jojoba Oil as a carrier oil. These three items have the following qualities: Basil as a stimulant, Rosemary for hair growth and Jojoba to keep dark hair dark. I started using this formula in 1970 and have used it ever since. At 87, my hair is still dark with just an edge of white around the forehead. Now I like the scent of Basil.
1969 ~My first experience with the essential oil of Basil was not a positive one. It was in 1969 when I was still known as a ‘coutourière to Rock ‘n Roll stars’ around the country, and also in the beginning of my herbal career. My herb shop of choice then was Nature’s Herb Company, owned by Nathan Podhurst. It was located in downtown San Francisco on what was then a slightly crummy street (281 Ellis St) near Glide Memorial Church.
I had purchased a bottle of Basil Oil and was smelling the essential oil of Basil and knew that what I was smelling had no relationship to the sweet herb Basil I was used to using in cooking. This smelled strongly herbal and camphorous and not very much edible. The only thing that I thought of doing with it was using it somehow in hair care.
I was referencing many old antiquarian books and had found this formula in a 250-year-old cosmetic book. The formula as written was using a pint of alcohol and ounces of essential oil. I reduced it to 4 oz of alcohol, ¼ oz of Lavender water (?), 10 drops of Lavender oil and 10 drops of Basil oil. The alcohol I used was a 150-proof Stolichnaya Vodka as it was a favorite of and spoken highly about by Herb Caen. At that time, I did not know much about alcohol except I did not like vodka so would not drink it.
I shook this mixture and let it stand for 3-months, shaking it at intervals. According to the book I read, women used this mixture of Lavender and Basil oil to perfume their hair. I came to like it eventually as I thought it was an excellent tonic and would help the hair growth. (original formal in my original Herbs & Things, p 186-187. Later, I would change up this formula, use better ingredients, add Rosemary oil, and call it Hair Growth Formula; and used it as an application as well as in a shampoo.
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NOTE ~ I always capitalize the name of the herb or essential oil so that you will know I am speaking of the plant and not the color or taste; as an example Rose is the plant while rose is a color.
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Scientific Data: Essential oil from Ocimum basilicum (Omani Basil): a desert crop. Al-Maskri AY1, Hanif MA, Al-Maskari MY, Abraham AS, Al-sabahi JN, Al-Mantheri O.
Abstract: The focus of the present study was on the influence of season on yield, chemical composition, antioxidant, and antifungal activities of Omani basil (Ocimum basilicum) oil. The present study involved only one of the eight Omani basil varieties. The hydro-distilled essential oil yields were computed to be 0.1%, 0.3% and 0.1% in the winter, spring, and summer seasons, respectively. The major components identified were L- linalool (26.5-56.3%), geraniol (12.1-16.5%), 1,8-cineole (2.5-15.1%), p-allylanisole (0.2-13.8%) and DL-limonene (0.2-10.4%). A noteworthy extra component was beta-farnesene, which was exclusively detected in the oil extracted during winter and spring at 6.3% and 5.8%, respectively. The essential oil composition over the different seasons was quite idiosyncratic, in which the principal components of one season were either trivial or totally absent in another. The essential oil extracted in spring exhibited the highest antioxidant activity (except DPPH scavenging ability) in comparison with the oils from other seasons. The basil oil was tested against pathogenic fungi viz. Aspergillus niger, A. fumigatus, Penicillium italicumand Rhizopus stolonifer using a disc diffusion method, and by determination of minimum inhibitory concentration. Surprisingly high antifungal values were found highlighting the potential of Omani basil as a preservative in the food and medical industries.
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REFERENCES 1.Nat Prod Commun, 2011 Oct;6(10):1487-90.1. Culpeper’s Complete Herbal. London. 1824. (author’s collection) Gerard’s Herbal. The Herball or Generall Hiftorie of Plantes. London. 1632 [author’s collection] Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press. Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999 Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, CA. Rose, Jeanne. The Herbal Body Book. Berkeley, CA. Frog, Ltd. Rose, Jeanne. The Herbal Guide to Food Book. Berkeley, CA. Frog, Ltd. Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose. San Francisco, CA. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basil https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22164790 • EO from O. basilicum (influence of season on yield, Oxford English Dictionary – the complete edition
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Moderation in All Things. Be moderate in your use of essential oils as they are just not sustainable for the environment. Be selective and more moderate in your usage. Use the herb first as tea or the infusion. —JeanneRose 2014
A discussion of Lavender and all its forms, species and terroir differences and the effects of environment on scent and benefits; and formulas for use in skincare.
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with EO courtesy of Prima Fleur Botanicals
LAVENDER EO & Hydrosol Profile Including Plant Information
By Jeanne Rose
INTRODUCTION ~ So much has been said about Lavender that it is somewhat taxing to try and find new information that can be used by consumers to assist and support one’s health. Lavender is a very common plant but, in that commonness, lies the problem. Some folks think all Lavender is the same Lavender and forget to realize that there are many species and many varieties of each species and even many chemotypes (chemical types) of each species and that terroir* also make it a most complicated plant.
* [terroir = This is a French word originally applied to wine but that can easily be applied to the factors that affect an essential oil. The essential oil reflects the expression of the earth, or the particular planting site (its ecology), in the resultant essential oil. Terroir is a factor of soil, shade, wind, water, rain, and terrain. Terroir is how a particular region’s climate, soils, and aspect (terrain) affect the smell and organoleptic quality of an essential oil. One of the mystiques of essential oils is the variation available.]
COMMON NAME/LATIN BINOMIAL ~ Lavender comes in many species and many varieties and many chemotypes from many countries. Lavandula angustifolia is the species of choice, however, Lavandula x intermedia (Lavandin) is the one that is mostly in use for oil extraction and that is grown in vast quantities in both France and Bulgaria as well as other countries. When grown in the correct terroir, it has a chemistry similar to L. angustifolia.
Family ~ Lamiaceae or Labiatae. This family of plants contains a variety of trees, shrubs, and herbs, that has been long-recognized for their medicinal and culinary quality with many used as flavorings, cosmetics, medicine, and for scent. This family includes Basil, Lavender, Marjoram, Mint, Oregano, Patchouli, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme, and much more.
OTHER COMMON NAME/NAMING INFORMATION ~ Lavandula (common name lavender) is a genus of 47 known species of flowering plants in the mint family, Lamiaceae. Lavender is such a common name that all varieties are called Lavender. A common name is just that ‘common’ and in no way, does it tell you anything about the plant. It is always best to know the Latin binomial (its proper name) and well as its common (everyday) name. The Latin binomial tells you something about the plant itself — as an example the genus name Lavandula is from the Latin word lavo (to wash) from its ancient use in soaps and the species name angustifolia means “narrow-leaved” as the leaves of this species are narrow. Latifolia means “wide-leaved”. [go to my book 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols, chapter 2 called “Plant Names Mean Something” to find out more.
SPECIES AND VARIETIES OF LAVENDER ~ There are 47 known species and endless varieties of each of these species as well as a variety of chemotypes of each. Each species is special and most interesting and if you spend some time learning about them, you will be better educated on how to use them and Lavender in general. Here are some of the best known and most used for herbal medicine or aromatic essential oil.
Lavandula angustifolia with many varieties that are distilled including favorites like Munstead, Hidcote, Jean Davis, Lady, and Vera to name just a few. So-called ‘English Lavender’ alone has over 40 different named varieties of plants with the broadest range of color choices available from white Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia alba) to pink (Lavandula angustifolia rosea), then to the deepest royal purple (Lavandula angustifolia Hidcote) spanning the full Lavender color spectrum …. Lavandula dentata also one of the many so-called French Lavender but this one actually originated in Spain. It is an ornamental plant whose EO can be used in perfumery or as an herbal treatment for a stomach ache. Lavandula latifolia also called Lavandula spica, spike lavender, broad lavender, or Portuguese Lavender. This is one of the parents of L. x. intermedia as it is rather easy to grow and will hybridize in the wild.
Lavandula x intermedia also called Dutch Lavenderis a sterile hybrid plant, a combination of L. latifolia and L. angustifolia. It was designed to grow quickly and produce lots of essential oil. Depending on its terroir, it can produce an EO that is quite an equal to the true Lavender or it can produce an EO that is very high in camphor. When distilled at low elevation it often contains large quantities of camphor and cineol; when grown and distilled at high elevation or in cool moderate climates, its scent can be favorably compared to a sweet true Lavender. In California, this hybrid more often than not produces a good quality oil that is low in camphor but may be high in borneol (which can degrade to camphor) or cineol. Several varieties are common such as Grosso and, in the U.S., one called ‘Provence’. Lavandula stoechas, also called French Lavender or Italian Lavender and works well to make herbal wreaths and in dried arrangements. It is considered a noxious weed in parts of Australia and Spain. Lavandula viridis, also called green or yellow Lavender. Produces heavily and can be distilled for a fine pine-scented hydrosol and an EO that can be used as an anti-fungal.
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COUNTRIES OF ORIGINS ~ Lavender is native to the Old World and is found from Cape Verde and the Canary Islands, Europe across to northern and eastern Africa, the Mediterranean, southwest Asia to southeast India. Common names are given to various species of Lavender no matter where they grow or why they grow there. English Lavender does not necessarily mean Lavender raised in England – it actually does not mean much of anything and that goes for the other country names given to the various species; it is best to learn your plants first by their correct Latin binomial, then variety, then chemotype (chemistry) and then country where it was grown. If you do this then you will actually know something about the plant. Tasmania is a very large island south of Australia and grows Lavandula angustifolia with a scent that is unique to the place and that can be described as spicy and floral. The main growing area is on the north side of Tasmania and is the Bridestowe Lavender Estate. This Lavender farm located in Nabowla, Tasmania, Australia is believed to be the largest commercial plantation of Lavandula angustifolia in the world. Kashmir, India produces Lavender, much of it organically grown at an altitude of 5000 feet and more. Kashmir Lavender is a most treasured lavender. Its yield is 1.3% – 1.7% and chemistry is about Linalool 31% and Linalyl acetate is 44%.
HARVEST LOCATION ~ Prima Fleur Botanicals has many types of Lavenders and they come from many areas of the world including areas in Spain, Sicily, Bulgaria, France, and Italy; some of which have organically grown plants and I have also studied and added the essential oils of Lavender from Tasmania, the United States, Croatia and Nepal and other places. The terroir (see definition above) of Lavender and Lavandin is very important. It might grow just about anywhere but location is very important to its quality as an herb or for production of the essential oil. In very hot areas it may produce abundant growth but the quality of the oil may be lacking while in high elevation the quantity of growth may be lacking but the quality of the oil be readily apparent.
ENDANGERED OR NOT ~ NO it is not endangered.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH ~ A highly aromatic small evergreen shrub found in dry sunny soil or grassy slopes amongst rocks, in exposed (usually parched), hot rocky environments, often on calcareous soils (Plants for a Future 2012); it is also found in gardens and urban areas. “An herbaceous bushy plant reaching a height of four feet. A woody plant with spike-shaped leaves of light grayish green. They have a downy look, the flowers appearing in various shades of white to mauve to violet-lavender, which are tightly paced around a singular stem” Essential Aromatherapy, p. 142. Lavandula x intermedia is a cross of two plants, Lavandula angustifolia, a Lavender species with narrow leaves, and Lavandula latifolia, a Lavender species with wide leaves. The ‘x’ means it is a cross and non-fertile, it does not produce seeds. There are many varieties of Lavandula x intermedia. There is extreme variation in this plant and its species due to the influence of terroir. This is why you must try out more than one to experience the variety of scent that exists in this group of plants.
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PORTION OF PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS AND YIELDS ~ Only the flower buds contain the essential oil of Lavender, and from this the characteristic scent and flavor of lavender is derived. So, when you harvest, cut only the flower tops and not the stems to get the best representation of the scent. Commercial farms cut the top third of the plant and that includes the stem because it is easier and prunes the plant at the same time; so, it is economical and no need to come back and cut the stems. However, for the home user, take only the flower tops for distillation or for drying. An acre of true Lavender (L. angustifolia) produces from 300 to 1,800 pounds of dried flowers (12 to 15 pounds of essential oil – about 2 gallons). An acre of one of the Lavandin cultivars (L. x intermedia) yields from 3,500 to 4,500 pounds of dried flowers per acre (53 to 67 pounds of essential oil).
Yield is 1.4 – 1.6% for L. angustifolia and more for L. x intermedia.
ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS ~
Color …………………. Most Lavender is colorless to a light yellow. Some with high amounts of camphor are brownish. Absolutes are brown.
Clarity ………………. Clear
Viscosity …………. Non-viscous for the steam-distilled and semi-viscous for the absolutes.
Intensity of odor. The intensity varies depending on the elevation and chemistry. Lavender can be of very low intensity (strength) like a 1-2 and sometimes exceed 5-6 or more when it is high in camphor.
ODOR DESCRIPTION/ AROMA ASSESSMENT ~ Lavender and Lavandin represent a plethora of odors from the sweet soft floral scent of the high elevation Lavender to the hot camphor scent from inland desert areas; Lavender has every scent you can imagine. One of my most favorite is the spicy floral scent of Tasmanian Lavandula angustifolia. I am also partial to the very soft, floral odor of Lavender absolute. There are other Lavenders I like and it behooves you to get a sampling of this essential oil from various areas or terroirs and find the one that you prefer
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Left nostril = the scent AND Right nostril = the intensity
Left side nostril smells the scent; right side nostril smells the intensity. So, smell on the left side, then smell on the right and then waft back and forth under the nose to get the entire scent experience.
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CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ To smell like Lavender your sample should have high levels of the alcohol linalool and the ester linalyl acetate. Lavender should have linalool and linalyl acetate in it in a proportion of 2:1 or about 40:20. It should contain little to no Camphor. If your Lavender has camphor in it, then you have either the wrong plants or the wrong earth. The essential oil is the expression of the earth in the plant. Camphor can be in Spanish Lavenders and spike Lavenders but fine Lavender will have a soft and soothing scent.
Linalool is an alcohol like the alcohol in wine. The essential oil alcohols here are monoterpenols. They are bactericides, anti-infectious, antiviral, stimulating to the skin to heal, good general tonics and free of hazards.
Linalyl acetate is an ester. Esters are somewhat fruity in scent, are gentle in action, soothing to the skin, anti-inflammatory, effective on skin rashes and other skin problems. They can both calm and uplift and combined with the tonic virtues of alcohols are very balancing, especially to the nervous system.
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GENERAL PROPERTIES and HOW TO USE ~
GENERAL PROPERTIES AND USES –Lavender is analgesic and sedative (calming, sedating) and antiseptic (antibiotic, anti-infective, anti-parasite) and anti-inflammatory. Lavandin is antitussive, nerve tonic, hypotensive, antidepressant, and respiratory tonic and by application antibacterial.
What do these words mean? Look them up in a good dictionary.
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Properties of Lavender/Lavandin (by AP=application, IG=ingestion or IN=inhalation) – AP = Application: Antiseptic, analgesic, Muscle relaxant, anti-inflammatory, cicatrize, cytophylactic, antispasmodic, antiparasitic, anti-infectious, antivenomous, and antibiotic. IN = Inhalation: Sedative, tonic, analgesic (pain relief), calmative, antitussive (cough suppress), decongestant, antidepressant, and restorative (makes you feel better). IG = Ingestion: antivenomous, antitoxic, diuretic. We suggest that you do not take the EO internally.
What do these words mean? Look them up in a dictionary.
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HOW TO START USING LAVENDER OIL ~If you have never smelled or used or applied Lavender oil the easiest method to learn is to rub 1-2 drops of Lavender Essential Oil in your cupped palms, inhale the scent, and then listen and feel. What that is like? Does it affect your brain to calm the mind? Does it have any mental effects on you at all? Where? You can also rub it on the feet, temples, wrists (or anywhere) and get an effect. After you find out the effects, and you like them, or don’t, then you can add a drop or two of Lavender to your own products and understand these effects on the skin. There are many ways to use Lavender oils, some are: Aromatherapy oil, Bath gels, creams, lotions, shampoos, and herbally as the whole dried flower in extracts, infusions, lotions, teas, and tinctures. This is also the way to start using any essential oil — open bottle and inhale lightly. Write down what you feel in your journal.
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PHYSICAL USES OF LAVENDER oil & HOW USED (IG or AP) ~ Lavender oil is externally applied for burns, cuts, grazes, inflammatory conditions, arthritis, cramps, ulcers, and skin conditions such as dermatitis, eczema, sunburn, rashes, acne, insect bites, infections, and for hair and skin care. Lavender is a common ingredient in soaps, shampoos, and sachets for scenting clothes.
Application/ Skincare –Lavender is an indispensable plant whose herb, essential oil and hydrosol are used in skin care and cosmetics. It is ubiquitous in high end products as well as in low-end ones. However, there are few of these many offerings that actually use a true uncut totally natural oil of Lavender or Lavandin.These oils are separated by their chemistry — if they are high in linalyl acetate and linalool they are soothing and sedating. The esters (linalyl acetate) are usually very soothing to the skin while the alcohols (linalool) are sedating to the mind.
Externally, a few drops in a hot footbath is used for fatigue, or neuralgia. A hot compress relieves toothache, sprain, and rheumatism. Lavender oil can be rubbed on the temples for a nervous headache.
Lavender oil and Lavender Cream
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EMOTIONAL USES OF LAVENDER (AP OR IN) ~Inhaled for headaches, migraine, insomnia, depression, anxiety, nervous tension, panic, hysteria, comfort during childbirth, and for mental pain of dysmenorrhea (AP & IN).
________Energetic/Emotional Use – Lavender may have earned its name of ‘to wash’ because it is frequently used in baths to help purify the body and spirit. If grown with care and attention, it is one of the purest and most highly evolved scents.
Uses – The oil and spirit are good when taken for all sorts of pains in the head and for the brain, as a restorative and tonic against faints, weakness, giddiness, spasms, colic, vertigo —and with oil of Rosemary for loss of memory or for anti-aging. Lavender relieves melancholy and raises the spirits.
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Stress Formula for the Work Place
Stress Formula is a combination of Lavender, Geranium, Bergamot, and Spearmint. Use twice as much Lavender as you do the other oils, something like this: 10 drops Lavender and 5 drops each of Bergamot, Geranium and Spearmint. Succuss the blend and then take a sniff. Adjust the ingredients to your liking. You can use this as an inhalant or in a skin care product for a fragrant ingredient blend that also soothes the skin.
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________Spiritual Qualities of Plants, especially Lavender ~ Organic refers to the method of growing without the use of synthetic chemical fertilizers, sprays or products using sound healthy agricultural methods. Organically grown is better for you, better for the animals and best for the planet. If you want to incorporate the spiritual qualities of plants they must be organically grown and you should use the ones that are locally sourced and better yet those that you have grown yourself with love and intent. For plants to have a spiritual quality there has to have been the intent to grow the best. If you do have a plant that you have grown with intent and wish to use it in your inner/spiritual work, think how to use it, work on the method of using and then go ahead and use it. In other words, be spiritual to use spiritually. I have a book called “Ritual, How to” that outlines ways in which you can use plant in a wholesome, intent way.
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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~You can put Lavender or Lavandin into a diffuser. Just remember that when you diffuse, keep in mind that you should have a purpose in mind for the desired results and diffuse with purpose and intent and for short periods of time — 5 minutes out of 15 as an example. Make sure your diffuser has an on-off cycle so that the air does not become saturated around you. If you want to be calm, Lavender mixes well with Bergamot or Chamomile, if you want a calm stimulation try Lavender with Jasmine. There are hundreds of combinations that one can try with Lavender, just be moderate in your use.
_____My Favorite Use of Lavender Oil ~ I have never been as fond of Lavender oil as I have been of its complementary opposite, Rosemary. They are like the yin and yang of essential oils. Where Rosemary is stimulating, Lavender is calming and when Rosemary wakes up your skin, Lavender soothes it. I will choose Rosemary over Lavender every time except when it is time to sleep. Then I use sweet Lavender hydrosol as a spray for the pillow case and inhale the scent of a combination of Bergamot and Lavender to sleep. Umm! Peaceful quiet sleep is the best on lovely linen sheets, feather pillows and with the sweet scents of Lavender and Bergamot.
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PERFUMERY AND BLENDING ~Lavender blends with well with most other essential oils especially other Mediterranean oils like Marjoram, Thyme, conifers of all types and in perfumery the citrus scents of Lemon and Bergamot, other florals such as Jasmine, Osmanthus and herbal florals like Rose Geranium. In aromatherapy, Lavender is the most commonly used essential oil as it is generally availability, modest in price, and has a universally pleasant scent. Perfumery is where you want to get the benefits of the Lavender scent, use the lovely Lavender absolute. It is soft and floral and more like the best of the best Lavender scent. It works exceedingly well in floral perfumes and adds a rich deep soft floral note to them.
BLENDING – WITH PERFUME FORMULA ~
Perfume of a 1000 Flowers 10 drops Lavender absolute 5 drops each of Bergamot, Jasmine abs, Rose abs, Neroli, Tuberose and Vanilla 5 drops of Rose Geranium and Ylang-Ylang complete Make a synergy using succussion. Age the blend 2-4 weeks. Dilute with an equal amount of 95% neutral grape spirits. Shake again. Age again. Label your container. Use Sparingly.
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HOW TO EXTRACT SCENT from Lavender: There are many methods that one can use to ‘get’ the scent out of a plant and these have been detailed in several books including my own Herbal Body Book. One method is as follows: Fill a large jar with flowers of the Lavender (and some Calendula). Small flowers should be chosen, and they should all be stripped of their stalks and leaves to leave room for as many flowers as possible. Now fill with a light Olive oil, fill it up slowly. As the oil is absorbed into the flowers, you may need to add a bit more so that the flowers are always slightly covered with oil. Leave them to macerate for twenty-four hours in the oil, then pour the entire contents of the whole jar into a double boiler and heat the oil until is almost boiling. Let it cool and then strain. You will need a strainer lined with silk (or panty hose). Let the oil drip through without a lot of squeezing. If you want the end result to be a one flower oil then you must start and finish with the same flower. This formula yields an infused or macerated oil. There is an art to the extraction of scent from flowers and this art is much older than distillation. Distillation is generally used for the herbaceous plants but home-methods will yield a good quality infused oil if care is taken.
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HYDROSOL OF LAVENDER
LAVENDER Hydrosol pictures
HYDROSOL ~ There are umpteen uses of Lavender hydrosol. They can depend on the variety or the chemotype that was distilled. Lavender is a true all-around product — use it in baths, in skin care, in skin products, as a facial or body spray, use the sweeter Lavender hydrosols for baby or elder care, carry in your car for a refreshing spray while you drive or to clean the baby’s skin after you change a diaper. There are extensive files at the “Hydrosols – Herbs&Aromatherapy” Facebook page if you want specific uses. And every book that discusses hydrosols also has many uses for Lavender hydrosol. Try my book, 375 Essential Oils & Hydrosols.
Hydrosol of Lavender can be gargled for hoarseness, added to teas for flavor. The hydrosol is an antiseptic for swabbing pimples, wounds, acne, or sores. The hydrosol is used as a wash for puffy eyes, bruises, bites, and other minor external sores or blemishes to normalize the sebaceous glands and reduce puffiness, and as a hair rinse to reduce oiliness. Lavender hydrosol is sprayed on the face for skin care, to relieve eyestrain, for cooling and soothing the temper. It works just as well on seniors or for babies.
Jeanne Rose Lavender Hydrosol Recipe for the Skin: Lavender Hydrosol ~ Use a true high-altitude Lavender to distil as that will have the chemistry Lavender is known for.Lavender hydrosol is known for its anti-inflammatory properties and can be used on all skin types. Perfect for use as a daily toner and light astringent, especially for acne-prone, troubled skin. It is pure and therapeutic.
Aromatic note: True Lavender hydrosol, unlike other hydrosols, should not have a camphor-type scent. This is because Lavender generally does not have as many aromatic particles that are water soluble, so the scent is earthy, sweet, and herbal.
Dilute hydrosols by at least 50-75% for children 6 and older. Dilute further for ages under 6 or avoid altogether. •
PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, and by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh to extract as much cellular water of the plant as possible.
CULINARY USES of Lavender ~ If you are using Lavender flowers and stalks in your cooking, please understand that whatever the chemistry is of that particular plant is what you will be eating. If your Lavender has a strong camphor odor then your food will also have that odor. It is best to use a ‘sweet’ culinary type Lavender that has little to no camphor/borneol odor, that is high in linalool and linalyl acetate instead. Beware of plants that come from very hot or desert like areas as they will probably be very high in camphor. Smell the flower and stalk first before you use it in your grill.
The most unpleasant taste is a delicious steak or vegetable kebob that was speared onto a high camphor Lavender stalk or even a salad with camphoraceous Lavender flowers. Lavender from Evening Light Farms grow particular types for particular culinary uses. You can infuse ‘sweet’ Lavender flowers in white wine for 24 hours, strain the flowers out and then drink the wine. You can make Lavender wine using grapes, yeast. Lavender buds and the fermentation process. See page 209-218 of The Herbal Guide to Food by Jeanne Rose.
The perfect choice for a culinary experience — L. angustifolia Avice Hill to flavor a dessert. Courtesy of Evening Light Farms
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HERBAL USES OF LAVENDER ~ A tea brewed from the tops is excellent to drink to relieve a headache caused from excess fatigue or exhaustion or for a slight stimulation to wake you up. Fomentation of Lavender in bags can be used as an analgesic to relieve pain or as a therapeutic mask for the face. The dried plant is added to baths and facial steaming herbs to stimulate the complexion, cleanse the skin, and act as an aromatic astringent; it can be mixed with any other herb, especially Rosemary, Comfrey and Rose. It is commonly use in potpourris and sachets. My Herbs & Things, Herbal Body Book and Herbal Guide to Food have many uses for Lavender herb.
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HISTORICAL USES ~Lavender is involved with the history of Photography. The first permanent photograph was an image produced in 1825 by the French inventor Joseph Nicephore Niepce. His photographs were produced on a polished pewter plate covered with a petroleum derivative called bitumen of Judea. Bitumen hardens with exposure to light. Niépce also experimented with silver chloride, which darkens when exposed to light, but eventually looked to the bitumen, which he used in his first successful attempt at capturing nature photographically. He dissolved the bitumen in Lavender oil, a product that was often used in varnishes, and coated the sheet of pewter with this light capturing mixture. He placed the sheet inside a camera obscura to capture the picture, and eight hours later removed it and washed it with Lavender oil to remove the unexposed bitumen. I found this information while visiting the University of Texas in Austin – found this fascinating.
Nicéphore Niépce’s earliest surviving photograph of a scene from nature, circa 1826, “View from the Window at Le Gras,” Saint-Loup-de-Varennes (France). The photograph was found to have been taken in 1825.
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INTERESTING INFORMATION ~ The history of Lavender is long and varied and should include a bit about René Maurice Gattefossé who determined some interesting uses of the essential oil. He was born in 1881 and used essences (aromatic oils) during WWI as well as in skincare. He wrote a cosmetics manual and a Perfumery magazine in 1908 and he used Lavender oil for healing. In his words, “The external application of small quantities of essences rapidly stops the spread of gangrenous sores. In my personal experience, after a laboratory explosion covered me with burning substances which I extinguished by rolling on a grassy lawn, both my hands were covered with a rapidly developing gas gangrene. Just one rinse with lavender essence stopped “the gasification of the tissue”. This treatment was followed by profuse sweating, and healing began the next day (July 1910).” He wrote a book of his experiences, published in 1937, which I had the honor to translate in 1990 which later was made available to the public. Gattefossé died in 1950.
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KEY USE ~ Lavender is called ‘the Oil of First Thought’ because it is the first one anyone thinks about to use in just about any situation while Lavandin is called the ‘the Oil of Second Thought’ since you can use it if you don’t have Lavender.
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SCIENTIFIC DATA ~ There are many articles regarding Lavender on the scientific websites. When you do your searches look for a website that is NOT selling you something. Look for ‘science’ in the title or look for the Journal of Essential Oil Research. Here is one about Lavender and the Nervous System https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3612440/ . And look for specifics like Lavender and Fungus infection.
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WHAT IS LAVENDER 40/42? This is a standardized oil with the same aroma every time you buy it. The numbers in Lavender 40/42 indicate the linalyl acetate + linalool content; in this case, they indicate the product contains 40%-42% of linalyl acetate and linalool. Lavender 40/42 is generally a blend of various lavenders in order to get a consistent scent from batch to batch, with processors adding linalyl acetate to cover the smell of camphor or borneol components of a given lavender. Properties: Because this oil is standardized it has a consistent aroma from lot to lot. It is low in therapeutic qualities. Benefits: We do not recommend using lavender 40/42 for therapeutic uses. It is an okay oil for perfume and fragrance applications, because it will have a consistent aroma for each batch that you make. Of Interest: To standardize this oil different lavender oils are blended together. A nature identical linalyl acetate is then added to the blend to create an aroma that is the same every time. Lavender 40/42 is actually a blend of various lavenders and ingredients and is thus a manufactured oil, not truly from an actual plant.
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FORMULAS ~ Lavender Luxuries SKIN CARE USING HERBS AND ESSENTIAL OILS
There are many books giving many recipes for making skin-care treatments including my own The Herbal Body Book (See Table 1) as well as Kitchen Cosmetics. Use these for reference. Read these books very carefully and practice making your own body-care products. Lavender is a well-known addition to any skin-care or beauty products. Lavandula angustifolia, the ‘true’ Lavender, with its high ester content is best in formulas for acne that is either pustular or dry, reddened or couperose skin, devitalized (skin with no life) skin, inflamed or irritated skin, oily skin, skin that is fully of water (edema) but dry and fatty and for wrinkles. Lavender that is higher in camphor or borneol, Lavandula latifolia, the ‘Spike’ Lavender or certain chemotypes of Lavender can be used specifically for acne and dry acne. Know your Lavender, especially it is good to know what type of Lavender that you are using when you make a skin-care formula. Refer to Table 1 of The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations and Table 1 of The Herbal Body Book for your choice of essential oils. Get the book fromhttp://www.jeannerose.net
SIMPLE SCRUB as a cleanser or soap substitute ~ 1 T Oatmeal added to 1 T warm honey + 1 drop Lavender oil. Apply to moistened skin.
FACIAL OIL FOR SKIN ~ Make your blend of therapeutic essential oils using Table 1 of the Herbal Body Book or the chapter on Blending of the Aromatherapy Studies Course. Add 4-6 drops of your EO. mixture to 1 oz. of herbal infused vegetable oil. Particularly recommended is Lavender Infused Oil with your added essential Oils. Or use Olive oil for normal skin, Hazelnut oil for oily skin and Sunflower oil for dry skin. Bottle, label and use. Make only one ounce of facial oil at a time because as you treat your skin condition, it will change and so will your choice of essential oils.
STEAMING YOUR SKIN AS A CLEANSING ALTERNATIVE ~ Any mixture of herbs and essential oils will work. But for simplicity sake use Lavender flower, Chamomile flowers, Rosebuds, and Comfrey leaf. Infuse 1 T of each in one cup of water, then heat this water just to boiling. Remove the pot to a table and place face over pot and let the steam do its work. Use only 1 drop of your choice of essential oil per steam. See the Herbal Body Book and The Aromatherapy Book.
GENTLE MASKS for Stimulation ~ These were discussed at length in The Herbal Body Book and many examples are given. The easiest mask and the most therapeutic besides the ones mentioned in the required readings is to simply take the simplest store-bought mask and make it therapeutic by adding high-quality Lavender oils and a bit of herbal Lavender infusion or hydrosol. Use no more than 1-2 drops essential oil per mask. You may also use 1 t. clay + 1 t. hydrosol + a touch of Lavender/Chamomile essential oil.
SHAMPOO ~ Shampoo can be easily made from herbs, soap, and essential oils. However, if you don’t wish to do this, make herbal shampoo the easy way. Make an herbal infusion using 1 oz. of mixed Lavender flowers to 2 cups of water. Strain and add 1/2 cup of this floral infusion to 1 oz. of store-bought shampoo. Add 3 drops of essential oil of Lavender. Shampoo hair. Dry by using a Linen or silk towel and rubbing the hair with the towel. This will give a gloss to the hair. With the rest of your Lavender herbal infusion, you can steam your skin or add it to your aromatic Lavender bath or use as a hair rinse. The excess can be refrigerated or used in your bath.
BATHING ~ Bathing with Lavender herb and essential oil is an important part of any aromatherapist personal skin treatment. Without a bath once a week for soaking and contemplating and herbal immersing, one’s personal cleansing ritual is not complete. A shower is great for the morning hurry but in the evening, a bath is a spiritual and physical necessity. I generally add Spikenard or Lavender/Chamomile EO. to a bath. Other bath treatments can be made with any number of herbal and essential oil ingredients. Salt scrub baths made up of 1 oz. Sea Salt + 1 oz. Hazel nut oil + 5 drops Lavender essential oil is used as externally to exfoliate for dead skin cells. A shower or soak follows the salt scrub (see The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations).
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A BLUE LAVENDER TOMATO TALE with a Formula Attached.
When I first started working with Artemisia arborescens, nobody else much knew about it but I knew it produced a gorgeous dark indigo-blue oil. I had a large bag of the cuttings from my garden and my friend at the Alameda Distillery offered to distill it in his smallest still. I warned him about the blue oil that would be released from the plant – but he was undeterred. So, we went through the distillation process, got some beautiful opaque indigo-blue oil and lots of interesting hydrosol. Later when they distilled some grapes for the eau de vie, it came out blue as well. They were shocked but agreed that it was still tasty. They called me about how to clean these azulene molecules from the still and I suggested running a load of Lavender. Thus, was Blue Lavender born. When Eatwell.com made the same error some years later of running the Blue Artemis first, and then their Lavender they also got a lovely, blue-colored Lavender oil. But in this case, they sold the blue-Lavender oil to fascinated customers and then began to make it into a healing salve. The A. arborescens has an amazing healing EO that is used for serious skin disease. Unlike the Moroccan plant, West coast Artemisia arborescens does not contain thujone but it does contain camphor. This camphor in the Blue Artemis treats skin conditions such as skin tags while azulene is used as an anti-inflammatory for conditions like Rosacea. It is used externally. And when distilled prior to anything else, it leaves some of its healing qualities behind that become incorporated into the final product. So, Lavender is often used to clean out the still from the blue azulene particles and then also lends itself to the healing qualities of the resultant oil, called Blue Lavender. The Lavender softens the strong herbal scent of the blue Artemis and is calming as well.
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References: Coombs, Allen J. Dictionary of Plant Names. Timber Press, Portland, OR. 1995. Geuter, Maria. Herbs in Nutrition. New York. BioDynamic Agricultural Assn. 1962. Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose & Berkeley, California: North Atlantic Books, 1992 Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press. Meunier, Christiane. Lavandes & Lavandins. Édisud. Aix-en-Provence. 1992 Nickell’s, J.M. Botanical Ready Reference Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999 Rose, Jeanne. Lavender, Lavender, Lavender. Sequim, WA. Sequim Lavender Growers Assn. 2003. Rose, Jeanne. Natural Botanical Perfumery. San Francisco, Ca. 1999 Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, California. Worwood, Susan. Essential Aromatherapy. New World Library, San Rafael, CA. 1995. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3612440/ http://www.umm.edu/health/medical/altmed/herb/lavender http://www.botanical-online.com/english/lavenderculture.htm
other books referenced are numerous.
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Lavenders are very smelly That make you laugh with your belly The scent is relaxing It is not over taxing And is good in your morning jelly—JeanneRose2012
Citruses are favorite fruit trees, and their essential oils perform in many formulas, therapeutics, and blends — they are widely grown and healing to mind and body. when inhaled, can be calming but not exhausting, and in skin care or by external application, the products have antiseptic properties.
Citrus
Antique postcard
CITRUS, Citrus & ODD CITRUS ~ Plant and the Essential Oils Written and Collected by Jeanne Rose – January 2023
INTRODUCTION ~ There are many types of citrus that are grown all over the world. Many are very familiar, and during this past year, since January 2022, I have covered many citrus plants (Bergamot, Clementine, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin/Tangerine, Neroli, Orange, Petitgrain, and Yuzu); I have missed others such as Pomelo from Vietnam, Buddha Hand, Lemonade tree, Kumquat, and probably others. These latter do not have a strong presence in the essential oil industry. But it is time to give them a paragraph or two.
Here are the links to the ten articles: Jeannerose-blog.com and the posts are
Bergamot, Clementine, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin/Tangerine, Neroli and Bitter Orange, Orange, Petitgrain, and Yuzu.
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CITRUS FAMILY ~ RUTACEAE
The citrus is in the family Rutaceae, commonly known as the rue or citrus family of flowering plants. Species of the family generally have flowers that divide into four or five parts, usually with strong scents. They range in form and size from herbs to shrubs and large trees.
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CITRUS FAMILY TIES ~ The parents of each of the types of citrus can be very confusing, and if you want to have a fine time scrambling your brains look at the incestuous crosses, backcrossing, mutations, aberrations, speciation events, hybrids, genetic mixings, varieties, groups or outgroups, rootstock changes and terroir effects of the many Citrus types to understand the various citrus fruits, we have now.
For example, Bergamot parentage is 3rd generation from the original citrus species with Lemon and Bitter Orange as the male and female parents, but each of those is also 2nd generation. The Grapefruit group of citrus originates from a back cross of C. paradisi with a female of C. maxima (Pomelo) and a more up-to-date Latin binomial is Citrus x aurantium. The parents of the ‘Mexican Lime are C. micrantha and C. medical, and then the Mexican Lime crossed with Lemon gives the ‘Tahiti’ Lime (C. x latifolia). Neroli, Citrus x aurantium L, also called C. amara, C. aurantium ssp. Amara. It Is a cross between Citron and of C. reticulata (Mandarin) + C. maxima (Pomelo) as the female parent. Mandarin can be called Citrus reticulata var. mandarin, and Tangerine can be called Citrus reticulata var. tangerina. Mandarin has also been called var. deliciosa, and of course, it has other names as well.
The ‘x’ in the middle of any Latin binomial simply means that the plant is a cross, probably infertile as well, and in the case of ‘Bitter Orange’, several types of Citrus were crossed to obtain this plant. There are many backcrosses in this group of Bitter Orange/Neroli.
There is a naming problem in citrus, and it is complicated by the number of edible citrus that are recognized plus the many crosses, back-crosses, rootstock clones, hybrids, species, subspecies and varieties. “The taxonomy of the citrus fruits is complicated by hybridity and apomixis (asexual reproduction in plants), with many stable hybrid lines being accorded species status, so that the number of edible species recognized in the genus Citrus L. … varies from 1 to 162”.1 Anywhere from 12 up to 162 different ones are accorded subspecies or varietal names.
CITRUS COUNTRIES OF ORIGINS AND HISTORY ~ There is a wide range of studies of where and how the diverse group of Citrus developed or are indigenous. They are now naturalized worldwide. For instance, Guenther mentions that Lime is probably a native of the East Indian Archipelago and then brought to the Asiatic mainland and on to tropical and subtropical regions of the world. Lime was brought to Europe by the Arabs. Citron, with a primary lineage, was called ‘the fruit of Persia’, and in 327 BC, Alexander the Great defeated this area, and the Greeks found Citron there under cultivation. For more extensive information on the country of origin of citrus, read volume 3 of The Essential Oils by Guenther OR “Citrus edited by Giovanni Dugo and Angelo Giacomo, 2002”.
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CITRUS ENDANGERED OR NOT ~ There are so many kinds of citrus in so many parts of the world that at this time, the citrus fruits, juices, cold-pressed peel oil, and EO are not endangered. •
CITRUS GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH ~ Citrus is grown in tropical and subtropical areas, including various southern areas in the southern USA. They are found in sunny, warm areas throughout the world. The tree is a small evergreen tree, somewhat cold-hardy and tolerant of drought.
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CITRUS. Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods, and yields ~ The leaf, flower, and peel of various citrus are either cold-pressed (CP) or steam-distilled (SD), depending on the type of scent you wish. Lime peel and other citrus peels are not phototoxic when SD-Steam Distilled but are phototoxic when CP-Cold-Pressed. Yields are listed in the original articles on this blog.
CITRUS CHEMISTRY ~ Here is probably where you want to review volume III of Guenther’s The Essential Oils because here is where you will find 359 pages discussing each of the citrus oils and the equipment used to cold-press or steam-distill them as well as their production, and various areas where these citrus oils are grown and individual articles on chemistry and background.o
THE STORY OF LIMONENE ~ Chemical Components ~ Limonene
“Limonene, a compound of the terpene family, is present in the distilled essential oil and in the cold-pressed oil of citrus peel [NOTE: if you are talking about the seed oils, that is something else.] But limonene is present in thecold pressed oil from the rind and not in the distilled essential oil.”
There are two isomers of limonene. Each has at least 30 different names. They are most easily identified by the R or S type. 4(R)-limonene ) (+)-Limonene) and 4(S)-limonene. Alternative prefixes to label optical isomers include ‘ d ’ and ‘l’, and more commonly, the symbols + and – are used.
“The limonene structure has a chiral center, and thus it can be found in nature as one of the two enantiomers mentioned above, the (R)- and (S)-limonene. The R isomer has the characteristic sweet smell of oranges while the S isomer has a more smell like a piney turpentine.”
D-limonene ((+)-limonene), which is the (R)-enantiomer d-limonene is (+)-Limonene and D-LIMONENE is a colorless, clear, mobile liquid with a pleasantly sweet odor as in mandarin & orange. There is the L-LIMONENE, (-)-Limonene, S)-(−)-Limonene or sinistral or left enantiomer. Lime and lemon are (S)- smells like the sour of lemons.
BUDDHA HAND CITRUS ~ C. medica var. sarcodactylus. The fingered Buddha’s hand is a bizarre-looking citrus, an elongated fruit about 6 inches long with many vertical indentations on the peel that make this yellow-colored fruit look like fingers on a hand. It has a thick peel used to flavor distillates and liquors, or the peel is candied and used in cooking and in various baked goods. It is wonderful infused in vodka to make a delicious base for a cocktail. This citrus can also be chopped and infused in neutral grape or orange spirits (https://organicalcohol.com/) and used as a citrus fixative in perfumery or in citrus accords or as a diluent for fine perfumes. The fruit is also used fresh or dried in clothing closets to fragrance clothing or stored items. (if used fresh it must be removed after a week or two or it will mold). This fruit is mostly peel and is candied and eaten or used to flavor vodka and other high alcohol beverages.
It is an ornamental tree in the garden, the fruit contains no pulp and no juice, and the zest is used in desserts, or candied as a sweet. Possession of a fruit or a tree “is believed to bring good health and to symbolize wealth. The Chinese character for “hand” (shou) sounds like that for “longevity,” and so the two are associated. In resembling the classic prayer position of Buddha’s hand, the long fruit fingers connote Buddhism.”.
I like to use the ‘infused in orange spirits’ as my fixative in a CITRUS PERFUME. 30 drops of Bergamot and 30 drops of green Mandarin 30 drops of Rose absolute 30 drops Sandalwood oil and 10 drops Ylang Extra Mix the above together and succuss. Add more of the notes you wish to enhance. Succuss again. Add Orange spirits or citrus infused orange spirits about 200 drops. Succuss. Age 2 weeks before you decide if it is perfect or not.
Buddha Hand Citrus – June 2019
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CITRON or ETROG ~ Citrus medica, one of the five pure citrus species, a male parent with female Bitter Orange to produce the Lemon, is also called ‘Etrog,’ or cedrat, and used on certain Jewish holidays. There are also specific names based on their various shapes. An etrog is a citron that looks mostly like a misshapen lemon but smells delicious; it is a fragrant citrus fruit that consists of a dry pulp and only a small quantity of juice. The branches and fruit are waved each day on Sukkot, except on Shabbat, in a specific manner for a variety of reasons. I do not know much about the Citron except that it is important on Jewish holidays, and based on ancient studies, the citron was used mainly for medicinal purposes. It was greatly used to fight seasickness, intestinal problems, pulmonary illnesses, and other illnesses. I use the Citron by taking the most fragrant part of the outer peel (flavedo or exocarp) and removing any unscented part of the albedo (white part), place in a jar, and cover with 95% neutral Grape or Orange spirits. I imagine if you use the 95% neutral orange spirits, it will have a stronger odor. After a few weeks, I strain out the alcohol and either add more peel or just label the container and use it as part of the diluent of a perfume
Etrog photo by Jeanne Rose March 2019
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KUMQUAT ~ Citrus japonica. This is a small fruit-bearing tree with a small large olive-shaped fruit that can be eaten when ripe, peel and all. They are native to southern Asia and were introduced to Europe about 1846 by Robert Fortune. The originally given Latin name was Fortunella japonica. I am not familiar with the essential oil, but Wikipedia says, “The essential oil of the kumquat peel contains much of the aroma of the fruit and is composed principally of limonene, which makes up around 93% of the total.Besides limonene and alpha-pinene (0.34%), both of which are considered monoterpenes, the oil is unusually rich (0.38% total) in sesquiterpenes such as a-bergamotene (0.21%), caryophyllene 0.18%), (bergamotene α-humulene (0.07%) and α-muurolene (0.06%), and these contribute to the spicy and woody flavor of the fruit.”
Kumquats – June 2019
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LEMONADE TREE ~ The correct name is Citrus x limon unless it is a Mandarin or tangerine, and then it would be Citrus reticulata. Of course, it also could be (Citrus limon x reticulata), and this is a cross between a lemon tree and a mandarin tree that was developed in Australia but was first found in New Zealand in the 1980s. The fruit is sweet, like a Mandarin, but with a citrusy lemon bite like a Lemon. You can pick and eat the fruit off the tree like an Orange.
Lemonade Tree fruit-August 2019 – Photo courtesy of Cheryl Brighton Smith •
LIMETTA ~ Citrus limetta, alternatively considered to be a cultivar of Citrus limon, C. limon ‘Limetta’, is a species of citrus, commonly known as mousambi, musambi, sweet lime, sweet lemon, and sweet limetta, it is a member of the sweet lemons.5 It is a cross between the citron and a bitter Orange. In France, this variety is known as ‘a Mamelon’, which describes the nipple shape of the end of the fruit. The juice and peel are both used. A sweet lemon is not an oxymoron. Neither is it a new fancy hybrid. Persian limu shirin, Citrus limetta, is one of the oldest cultivated varieties of lemons, and it tastes sweet like honey, with no hint of acidity. “The first time I bit into a slice was a shock because I was prepared for tartness, and instead, my mouth was filled with sweetness. Even more beautiful was the scent of the peel that lingered on my fingers. It also smelled like no lemon I had tried before.”
This is a lovely quote from January 28, 2019, by Victoria, “…The best way to enjoy sweet lemons is to make a glass of juice and drink it over ice. No sugar or any other flavorings are needed. The juice has the interesting property of turning pleasantly bitter as it oxidizes, becoming reminiscent of sweetened grapefruit juice. In France, this variety is known as ‘a Mamelon’, which aptly describes the shape of the end of the fruit. Juice & peel used ….” —January 28,2019, Essays on Flavor and Fragrance, Food & Fragrance, Perfume 101.
Limetta
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POMELO ~ Citrus maxima or pamplemousse. This is another large original form of citrus that is eaten and in Vietnam, the peel is steam-distilled for the oil. When I wrote a blog post on Grapefruit, I only briefly mentioned the Pomelo. I was written to by (Yen Ta), and she mentioned that I had not said much about Pomelo. I knew of it and had seen the fruit in the market but had never experienced the oil. In August, I received this bottle of steam-distilled EO from Vietnam via Yen Ta and am now able to discuss it. Pomelo peel SD is colorless, clear, non-viscous, of low intensity, and has a bitter, aromatic taste. Its odor is very mildly citrus, with herbaceous afternotes. I have used it in a citrus accord as well as making some bases with it for perfumery purposes. White fleshed Pomelo is milder in acidity than the red-fleshed. Pomelo, when analyzed by GCMS, has been found to contain up to 62% d-limonene, anethol to 9.5%, and nootketone to 5.6%.
Supercritical CO2 extraction has been done on Pomelo flowers and analyzed, and Pomelo CO2 can be used in perfumery and other uses now being examined.
Pomelo rind is used to control coughs and as an expectorant. Pomelo peel extract has also been studied in mice to prevent high-fat diet-induced metabolic disorders. Since it is related to Grapefruit as one of grapefruit’s primary parents, it shares common furanocoumarins (because of the potential for furanocoumarins to increase the bloodstream concentration of a drug to higher than expected, it can lead to unfortunate consequences), and thus should not be taken with heart medications. Steam-distilled Pomelo peel, when used externally, does not cause sun toxicity.
Pomelo fruit and EO
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ODOR DESCRIPTION/ AROMA ASSESSMENT ~ Citrus Notes ~ Citrus oils are used in the perfumery business to impart a fresh, sparkling note to any blend. They are usually not overpowering. They can be used in up to 25% as the base scent for classic types of eau de cologne. Citrus oils harmonize with many other essential oils, and they are used in different concentrations in almost all scent blends and modern perfumes. >In combination with Lavender oil, citrus oils are the base for English Lavender, which is an 1826 creation.< High concentrations of citrus oils are in Chanel No. 5 (1921). Also of importance are the citrus oils in pop drinks like Coca-Cola and others.
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GENERAL PROPERTIESof the Citrus
PROPERTIES AND USES~ Some of the citrus oils are relaxing, and most are very enlivening. They are calming but do not cause lethargy or fatigue. In general, these oils are slightly antiseptic, ease gut spasms (antispasmodic), can be slight diuretics, purifying (depurative), ease stomach aches, cholagogue (promotes the discharge of bile); and when inhaled, can be calming but not exhausting; and in skin care or by external application in products have antiseptic properties.
PHYSICAL USES & HOW USED ~ Application (AP) – Citrus oils go nicely into many blends that are used for skincare. It would be a top note or heart note to other aromatic oils in natural perfumery and blends well with many. In lotions and creams, they have a slight antiseptic quality as well as an aromatic livening scent.
Ingestion (IG) – Do not drink the essential oils. Drink the juice instead or dry and keep the peels for your bath and for potpourri.
Inhalation (IN) – Citrus oils are generally relaxing but not tiring by inhalation, especially when mixed with some of your other favorites, such as Lavender, Spikenard, Jasmine, and many more.
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EXTERNAL USES & HOW USED ~
SKIN CARE FORMULAS are available in my 350-page Herbal Body Book, which is chock-full of great skin, hair, and body care formulas. It is available from me at www.jeannerose.net.
Here is one I have always enjoyed. They can add nuance to any blend or perfume. A CITRUS MASK BY JEANNE ROSE
The San Clemente Citrus Mask. Peel a small orange, a small Lemon, or other citrus, and mash the pulp, or else put the pulp into a blender and blend. Add enough yellow Cornmeal to make it gritty. Apply to your clean, slightly moistened face or body. Let the mask stay for a few minutes. If you have collected the juices separately, add them to steaming water and steam your face for a minute. Roll on the gritty citrus meal with your fingers for a gentle exfoliation. Rinse off the mask with tepid water, or take a shower and rinse off the mask, or use the gritty Citrus/Cornmeal as a scrub to also exfoliate your legs and arms. Dry and apply a citrus hydrosol spray to finish. There are many ways to use this mask, and it will leave your skin very fresh and clean. Use it when you are fatigued and to prevent aging. The San Clemente Mask reminded my husband of hot supermarkets and parking lots; so, when your feet are hot, and your eyeballs feel like they are falling out of your face from the heat, apply the San Clemente Orange, and you will feel better. [see p. 190 of The Herbal Body Book for more].
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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ You can pretty much mix and match your citrus oils any way you wish with other Mediterranean-type oils or florals. Pick the effect and choose your oil. Look at the citrus blogposts already posted for many uses and blends. I have already written about Bergamot, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Tangerine, Orange, Bitter Orange, Neroli, Petitgrain, and Yuzu.
_______Emotional/Energetic Uses (AP or IN) ~ Inhale the citrus oils to combat apathy, to stimulate appetite, to increase creativity, to improve mood, to give joy, to refresh your life. Remember them when you are depressed, exhausted, and need emotional healing. All the citrus oils have a joyful, sunny quality to them.
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PHYSICAL USE BY INHALATION ~ Get your oils and use Lavender, Lemon, and YlangYlang; it was found that this aromatherapy oil combination is effective in lowering systolic blood pressure and sympathetic nerve system activity. The blend was 2-2-1, and you can read about it here. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21157172 This combination works exceedingly well to reduce blood pressure and feelings of stress and anxiousness. It need only be slowly and quietly inhaled over the period of a minute or so.
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BLENDING & PERFUMERY ~ Blending with citrus oils is very easy. It is almost impossible to make a mistake. Know what you want to do, pick the correct citrus for the effect, and then make a few samples to scent and try. Mix with Rosemary, Vetivert, Cloves, Caraway, or herbs, roots, flower buds, and seeds. Use the charts in Chapter 1 of The Herbal Body Book and The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations,to make your selection of the oil and the application.
EAU DE COLOGNE The best is made with a variety of citrus scents with added Rosemary. There are many ways to make this cologne. George W. Askinson, Dr. of Chem. in 1865, said, “Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made by dissolving the essential oils in the alcohols and then distilling it, then adding the Rosemary and Neroli to the distillate. Dissolve the aromatics in 95% neutral grape spirits — distill — add the Neroli and the Rosemary.” Effect the dilution required with Orange flower water or Rose water. Ultimately, Eau de cologne is 75% fragrant alcohol and 25% water or flower water.
Here is one recipe, and Orange spirits can be substituted at the end for some of the Grape spirits. You can adjust the ingredients up and down as you see fit. 1 quart (85-95%) Grape spirits (substitute some Orange Spirits for some of the grape) 4 ml Orange peel CP 2 ml Bergamot peel CP ½ ml Bitter Orange CP ½ ml Neroli petal EO 2 ml Rosemary EO You can also make it of Corn spirit, which has a distinct aroma difference from the Grape or Orange spirit.
The difference between eau de Cologne, made in France, and made in England is the difference in the spirit used, which results in a completely different odor. Fine perfumes should only be made with freshly distilled 70-95% neutral grape spirits.
All the older perfumes were diluted down with neutral grape spirits. Originally, they were considered medicines and were taken internally by the drop. After the introduction of synthetics, around 1850, perfumes were made with chemicalized ingredients and were no longer edible. However, even today certain uplifting ‘spirits’ are sold in Europe as a tonic against seasickness, carsickness and all sorts of nausea.
“The original eau de cologne was invented in 1709 by a man named Farina who was homesick for his home country of Italy. He described the scent and said it reminded him of a spring morning with mountain daffodils and the orange blossoms after a rain.” 7
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HYDROSOL ~ I truly love all of the citrus hydrosols. I use them for everything. I found that a well-distilled lemon peel hydrosol as a wash was great for itchy eyes. I have used Neroli hydrosol as a perfume, Orange hydrosol to spray my house at Christmas, and so many other uses. Read the individual blog posts for using citrus hydrosols. My favorite places to purchase citrus hydrosols are from people who live where the citrus grow, and that includes LancasterCreations.com, as they are an organic apothecary and community in the growing heart of California and near the ancient Sequoias of the Sierras.
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CITRUS LEAF DISTILLATE TOMATO TALE
In September 2019, the citrus leaves arrived. I opened them, examined the leaves, and noticed they were covered with dust; the leaves were absolutely covered with whatever came out of the sky. So, I carefully washed and cleaned every one of them by hand. Then had a good whiff and enjoyed the odor. If you want Petitgrain hydrosol, you will have to get leaves ONLY from an area that is out of the pollution and somewhere where the air is clean and the citrus is organically grown.
The only other time I have ever seen leaves so dirty and musty like this is when I was taken to an abandoned Orange grove in Los Angeles that was at the center of a confluence of interstate freeways and in the smog — my Distillation class, and I picked leaves individually, washed, wiped, dried, cleaned each one before we did the distillation. When we were done, we passed the hydrosol around just for the smell but then poured it away, back onto the ground under the trees. I know there are organic farms in the California foothills where you could pick organically grown citrus leaves that are not encrusted with pollutants. I worry about people and their children who are inhaling these pollutants every day. I hope that people think about this and take some sort of protective herbs for the lungs and on the skin and do not pick and use any plant product that is not organically grown and sustainable.
PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components. Most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.
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CITRUS INTERESTING INFORMATION ~ THE KEEPING QUALITIES OF CITRUS OILS ~ “Lemon and Orange oils even improve after a year or two of cold storage in that some of the dissolved waxes separate from the oil and may be removed easily by filtration. The resulting oils are more soluble and produce clearer extracts. Neither odor nor flavor is impaired if the oils are kept in tin-lined fully filled drums.”6 ••
KEY USE ~ Citrus peels, leaves, and flowers are used for scent, and the flesh is used for food and ritual.
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Citrus Limerick (2019) Citrus fruit is delicious to eat The taste is fine and cannot be beat. Bright and sunny Just like honey Citrus fruit is better than meat.
CITRUS TOMATO TALE FROM 1961-1963
Years ago, in 1961-1963, I lived in the middle of an Orange grove, in a sweet white farm-style house with high ceilings and ceiling fans, lots of windows where the breezes could blow through with the scent of oranges and citrus flowers. I lived there with my husband and my blue Great Dane dog, George. George later became an important figure in my rock and roll world and was eventually photographed for the cover of an album as well as the centerpiece of a photograph that included fashion I had designed and the models wearing them, including Janis Joplin. But our lives started here in the middle of a fragrant orange grove. I had a big square white bedroom with a ceiling fan and right outside the bedroom window was a large citrus tree that had had grafted onto its trunk various varieties of citrus. This tree, depending upon the season, was an orange tree, lime tree, lemon tree, grapefruit tree, or one other variety that I have forgotten. Part of it was always in bloom, and it always scented up the dark, humid Florida nights. Those were the days of no cell phones, little to no TV, and those quiet, dark nights amongst the trees and the divine scent of citrus flowers. Eating fresh citrus every day and smelling those luscious flowers in the evening was the best part of my time living in Florida. I wonder if the sweet scent still lingers and the quiet can still be found there in the night. Eventually, George and I jumped into my red Comet station wagon with all our belongings and made a 6-week rambling journey across the United States to come home to California and start the next phase of life in Big Sur, CA.
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Safety Precautions
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References ~ 1A classification for edible Citrus (Rutaceae) D.J. Mabberley, unknown date 2 https://www.popoptiq.com/types-of-lemons/ 3 Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press. 4 Employment of a new strategy for identification of lemon (Citrus limon L.) cultivars using RAPD markers. Q Mu, X Sun, G Zhong, X Wang… – African Journal, 2012 – academicjournals.org
5 Pharmacogn Rev. 2016 Jul-Dec; 10(20): 118–122.doi: 10.4103/0973-7847.194043. Anticancer Activity of Key Lime, Citrus aurantifoliabyNithithep Narang and Wannee Jiraungkoorskul 6Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Volume III.Krieger. 1974 7 http://www.cologneboutique.com/the-history-behind-eau-de-cologne/ Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose & Berkeley, California: North Atlantic Books, 1992
Pomelo essential oil provided by tahaiyen@gmail.com Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999 Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, CA. Rose, Jeanne. The Herbal Body Book, San Francisco, CA 2000 from 1976. The best and most complete. Rose, Jeanne. Kitchen Cosmetics. San Francisco, CA. •
A fascinating, informative portrayal of the well-loved and often-used flower oil of the Rose Geranium. Includes the essential oil profile and factual science as well as favorite recipes and perfumes of this refreshing plant by Jeanne Rose.
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ROSE GERANIUM Herb & Essential Oil PROFILE
By Jeanne Rose
COMMON NAME/LATIN BINOMIAL ~ Rose Geranium is the common name of the essential oil from the plant Pelargonium graveolens syn. P. asperum or P. roseum L’Hérit.
_____Family – Pelargoniums belong to the geranium family (Geraniaceae), as does the genus Geranium, which includes cranesbills (G. maculatum) and herb Robert (G robertianum).
_____Rose Geranium EO. Other Common Name/Naming Information – Popularly known as scented geraniums, these plants are actually scented Pelargoniums. Scented geraniums belong to the genus Pelargonium. The generic name, from the Greek pelargos, “stork”, comes from the notion that the long, narrow seed capsule and flower parts resembled a stork’s bill. Storksbill is also an old common name. The word graveolens means ‘heavily scented’.
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COUNTRIES OF ORIGINS ~ Indigenous to South Africa and grows in Morocco, Madagascar, Egypt, China, and California. Unfortunately, at this time only the hydrosol is available from the USA.
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ROSE GERANIUM EO. HISTORYAND GROWING CONDITIONS ~ The great part of the world’s supply of Pelargonium oil comes from the island of Reunion (Bourbon), a very fertile island about 400 miles east of Madagascar. The plant was introduced to the island in about 1880. The original plant grown for essential oil production was different from that cultivated today. In about 1900 P. graveolens was introduced from Grasse in France and was a plant that grew larger and bushier, and therefore produced more oil—and the oil was of a sweeter, more rose-like odor.
Since Pelargonium changes and develops according to the climate and soil type in which they are grown, the essential oil of Reunion also changed and altered. Reunion oil contains more citronellol than that grown in France and less than that grown in Egypt and China. Pelargonium plants like a soil that is neither moist nor dry, a temperate climate with sea moisture (such as occurs in San Francisco) and do not like periods of heavy rain or torrid heat. Cuttings of this plant have been taken throughout the world and various plantings have been started.
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ROSE GERANIUM EO. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH ~ True Pelargonium oil comes from P. graveolens or P. asperum or a cross of these two. Pelargonium plants readily cross and they change their oil components, quality, and quantity, depending on where grown. Rose geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) oil does not come from the garden plants called P. odoratissimum, which is a small trailing plant whose leaves have the odor of nutmeg or green apples, nor does it come from the garden plant called P. fragrans, which is also not suitable for cultivation, nor does it come from the genus called Geranium.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANT ~ A perennial hairy shrub up to 3-4 feet in height. It is shrubby, erect, branching, hairy, densely leafy; the leaves are triangular, cordate at the base, deeply five-lobed, hairy, grey-green, rose-scented; peduncle, 5-10 flowered; petals, small, pink; upper veined and spotted purple. P. asperum is often considered to be unpleasantly scented with few flowers of pale lilac. The scent is contained in small beads of oil produced in glands at the base of tiny leaf hairs. Bruising or crushing a leaf breaks the beads and releases their fragrance. There are about 200-280 species of Pelargonium, and only a few are distilled. The EO is dependent on where it is grown, on the distiller, on terroir as well as season of the year when distilled. This is one of the most diverse plants for producing an essential oil. I have a box at home of 25 different Rose Geranium distillations with 25 different odors. I have my preferences.
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INTERESTING INFORMATION/ ABSTRACT ~ This plant produces quite different oils depending on the environment, climate, soil, elevation, that is, the terroir. Take several cuttings of a mother plant and plant each cutting in different parts of the world; within three years, depending on the environmental and ecological conditions you will have as many different oils with varying components as you have different environments. •
a field in Malawi 2014
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ROSE GERANIUM EO. PORTION OF PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS ~ The top third of the plant is cut when it is in flower, up to four times per year, and is steam-distilled to yield the oil and hydrosol. Generally, the heavier stalks are removed prior to distillation. The wood absolutely must be excluded from the distillation process.
_____Yield of oil varies from 0.1 – 0.2% or up to 0.05 kg per 250 kg of freshly picked material. The amount is higher in the summer cut (August) than the winter cut (late spring). In California where we mostly try to get great quality hydrosol, 200 lbs. of leaf material cut and distilled in August, produced 1 ounce of emerald, green essential oil and 50 gallons of hydrosol.
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ENDANGERED OR NOT ~ Rose Geranium is an odd plant that changes and develops differently according to climate and soil type where grown. Réunion type oil contains more citronellol that that grown in France and less than that grown in Egypt and China. It is generally not considered to be endangered although the original South African type has changed its chemistry somewhat over the last 200 years.
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ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROSE GERANIUM ESSENTIAL OIL
AROMA ASSESSMENT ~ This EO is most interesting in that the scent is indicative of the source of the oil. If you purchase EO Rose Geranium from Malawi it will be fresh, green, herbaceous, and somewhat floral and vegetative; from Madagascar it is very floral, herbaceous, and even a little spicy. Knowing your source country is often preferred for perfumery. Personally, I have samples from all countries and choose the scent specifically for the project at hand.
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CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ Our Geranium EO are from South Africa and Egypt, the hydrosol is USA organic.
Comparison of Main Components: Citronellol, Geraniol, Citronellyl formate, Linaloöl, Terpineol and others. •
SKIN CARE – The oil is used in blends externally on acne, bruises, and the plant infusion as a tonic astringent application for broken capillaries, burns, couperose or reddened skin, cuts, all types of skin conditions, externally for hemorrhoids, and in products for oily or mature skin. The oil is used externally in massage for cellulite, breast engorgement, edema, or poor circulation.
Application/ Skincare – This oil is a tonic and balances all functions of the oil glands, in massage to ease PMS or cramps. This is a healing and antiseptic EO and excellent all-purpose essential oil for the skin of young to old women, also children. My personal favorite use of this essential oil is simply as an inhalant. It has supported my emotional life for over 75 years from the time my father grew it as a plant until now when I grow it and distill it for the hydrosol.
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JEANNE ROSE PERSONAL HAIR CARE WITH ROSE GERANIUM EO
I am quite fond of this essential oil and hydrosol in my hair care. I will take my favorite shampoo of the moment (I usually make my own shampoo) and add 8 drops Rose Geranium and 8 drops of Rosemary verbenone to 8 oz. of shampoo. Mix thoroughly and use. When I use these types of therapeutic shampoos, I will wet the hair thoroughly, put on the shampoo, build a lather, and let it sit for 3 minutes to soak into the scalp. Now at 80 years, my hair is still naturally black with only 5% white hair framing my face. I attribute my still dark hair to a lifetime (since 1967) of the above treatment.
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INHALATION ~ Use this oil by inhalation for menopausal symptoms or PMS, nervous tension, or stress. It is used extensively in the skin-care industry for all types of cosmetic problems. As an inhalant, the EO is considered to balance the adrenocortical glands. This oil has properties that are considered to be anti-infectious, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal (Spikenard is better), anti-inflammatory, relaxing, and anti-spasmodic.
_____Diffuse/Diffusion – Works well by itself or in a blend for emotional issues, or to cleanse the air, and to scent and calm the atmosphere.
_____Emotional Use – Geranium: Inhaled it is thought to stimulate the adrenal cortex to reduce symptoms of asthma and menopause and as an aid to stimulate the thyroid for weight loss. Rose Geranium oil is good to treats depression, dejection, fatigue, inertia, confusion and bewilderment, all anxiety states, balances adrenals, balances hormones, has a harmonious effect and calms and refreshes and uplifts the body and psyche.
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HYDROSOL USE ~ The hydrosol is excellent as a spray tonic for the skin, to reduce stress, relieve all sorts of menstrual or menopausal symptoms. Used internally by ingestion for the liver and pancreas (with the assistance of a health care provider).
I have grown the plants for years, I have harvested and distilled them as well. I have found the correct cultivar and delivered them to dozens of growers in California where they have been particularly well-received and was especially taken with the hydrosol and all of its many uses.
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A HYDROSOL TOMATO TALE STORY ~ DRINKING ROSE GERANIUM OIL By Jeanne Rose
Several years ago, I was being televised and interviewed live, in my home, regarding aromatherapy and hydrosols. I had a number of show-and-tell items in front of me and our interview was going along quite nicely. I had a glass full of water and an identical glass full of Rose geranium hydrosol to show that the hydrosol is colorless and clear just like water. I had not as yet mentioned to the interviewer that when I distill, I do not remove the small amount of essential oil that is present, so that the glass of hydrosol I was discussing actually had a thin layer of essential oil on it. During the interview, I reached for the glass of water and took a drink and immediately knew I had made a mistake. With my mouth quite full of the very strong floral hydrosol and essential oil, I could only swallow, inwardly trying not to gag and hoping that Rose Geranium was truly the ‘oil of beauty’ and would not kill me and I continued with the interview all the while exhaling the scent of Rose Geranium. It was a shocking and not planned experience. Later on, I kept an account of my symptoms which were that I got slightly sleepy, my hot flashes diminished, and my body and secretions all took on the odor of Rose Geranium and I had a mild stomach ache.
However, please know that I do not recommend drinking essential oils or undiluted hydrosol. These are very powerful products, that will collect in the liver to be metabolized and may cause serious side effects to the organs and the mucous membranes of the body. If ingested, they can also cause extreme harm as they are so concentrated. —JeanneRose 2000.
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PERFUMERY AND BLENDING ~This is one of those chameleon odors that can be used in most blends where it works to do its magic. I am particularly fond of this in blends and perfumes where I wish a ‘rosy’ odor but without the true ‘rose’ scent. A fabulous scent. It blends well with Lavender, Patchouli, Clove, Rose, Neroli/Orange blossom, Sandalwood, Jasmine, Juniper, Bergamot, and other citrus oils perfect
Your Top note will be 30 drops of Tangerine or Yellow Mandarin. Heart note = 10 drops of May Chang + 20 drops of Ylang Xtra + 25 drops of Rose Geranium is the Heart note. and the Base note is 7 drops Rose absolute + 5 drops Ginger and 5 drops Oakmoss.
Mix each note separately and succuss, then add together and success; let it sit and age for several weeks before you add your carrier or alcohol. A 25% scent blend and 75% neutral spirits is good. Then let it age again before you use.
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KEY USE ~ Oil of Beauty™
HISTORICAL USES ~ The great part of the world’s supply of Pelargonium oil comes from the island of Reunion (Bourbon), a very fertile island about 400 miles east of Madagascar. The plant was introduced to the island in about 1880. The original plant grown for essential oil production was different from that cultivated today. In about 1900 P. graveolens was introduced from Grasse in France and was a plant that grew larger and bushier, and therefore produced more oil—and the oil was of a sweeter, more rose-like odor. Since Pelargoniums change and develop according to the climate and soil type in which they are grown, the essential oil of Reunion also changed and altered. Reunion oil contains more citronellol than that grown in France and less than that grown in Egypt and China. Pelargonium plants like a soil that is neither moist nor dry, a temperate climate with sea moisture (such as occurs in San Francisco) and do not like periods of heavy rain or torrid heat. Cuttings of this plant have been taken throughout the world and various plantings have been started. How would this compare to Egyptian and South African? This is the explanation. You get different things from different terroir.
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Contradictions: None (as always do not use to excess) Safety Precautions: None known. Moderation is always a precaution to use. Patch Test: If applying a new essential oil to your skin always perform a patch test to the inner arm (after you have diluted the EO in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply a diluted drop (1 drop EO + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose Band-Aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64
HERBAL USES OF THE PELARGONIUM PLANTS ~ The medicinal Geranium is G. maculatum, the root being used as an astringent for face or body where needed. Our interest lies in the fragrant geraniums, the Pelargonium species with their marvelously scented foliage of flower, fruit, citrus, green scent, woods, herb, or spice. … “…These leaves and flowers can be used in all types of cosmetic preparations. They are especially nice in facial steams as a stimulating tea, as a mild astringent wash. They are used in stimulating bath herb blends, cleansing hair rinses, and facial masks. The fragrant foliage when dried is really nice in herby potpourris. Rose geranium leaves are used in jelly, and apple-scented Geranium used in tea blends.”… – the Herbal Body Book by Jeanne Rose.
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References: Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press. Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999 Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, California: Rose, Jeanne. The Herbal Body Book. San Francisco, CA. www.jeannerose.net/books.html Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose & Berkeley, California: North Atlantic Books, 1992
• Moderation in All Things. Be moderate in your use of essential oils as they are just not sustainable for the environment. Be selective and more moderate in your usage. Use the herb first as tea or the infusion. —JeanneRose 2014
•Bibliography Clifford, Derek. Pelargoniums. Blandford Press: Great Britain, 1958 Franchomme, P. l’aromatherapie exactement. R. Jollois: France, 1990 Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Krieger Publishing: Florida, 1950 Lawless, Julia. The Encyclopedia of Essential Oils. Element: Massachusetts, 1992 http://www.nda.agric.za/docs/Brochures/ProGuRosegeranium.pdf Rose Jeanne. The Aromatic Plant Project. World of Aromatherapy Conference Proceedings: California, 1996 Rose, Jeanne. The Herbal Body Book. Grosset & Dunlap: New York, 1992 Vincent, G. [Effect of limiting overall growth potential on the architecture of rose geranium (Pelargonium sp.).] Effet de la limitation du potentiel de croissance global sur l’architecture danium Rosat(Pelargonium sp.). Acta Botanica Gallica (1995) 142 (5) 451-461 [Fr, en, 10 ref.] CIRAD-Réunion, Station de la Bretagne, 97487 Saint-Denis Cedex, Réunion.
NEROLI. ~ A description of Bitter Orange/Neroli flower, characteristics, Jeanne Rose skincare, formulas, and recipes on how to use this famous, important oil. Who is Neroli? “By the end of the 17th century, Anne Marie Orsini, the princess of Nerola, Italy, introduced the essence of bitter Orange tree flowers as a fashionable fragrance by using it to perfume her gloves and her bath. Since then, the term “neroli” has been used to describe this essence.”
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NEROLI. Essential Oil/Hydrosol Profile
By Jeanne Rose ~ November 2023
Pretty Neroli oil
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NEROLI. NAME & Scientific Name ~ CITRUS X AURANTIUM L, also called C. amara, C. aurantium ssp. Amara, C. iyo. It Is a cross between Citron and of C. reticulata (Mandarin) + C. maxima (Pomelo) as the female parent. The ‘x’ in the middle of any Latin binomial simply means that the plant is a cross and in this case several types of Citrus were crossed to eventually become “Bitter Orange”. There are many backcrosses in this group of Bitter Orange/Neroli.
NEROLI NAMING HISTORY ~ Who is Neroli? “By the end of the 17th century, Anne Marie Orsini, the princess of Nerola, Italy, introduced the essence of bitter Orange tree as a fashionable fragrance by using it to perfume her gloves and her bath. Since then, the term “neroli” has been used to describe this essence.”
FAMILY ~ Rutaceae, the Citrus family
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Neroli Limerick There is a citrus flower Neroli It is grown in the Garden Filoli It rings all my bells With such heavenly smells And sure, makes me feel all holy! … JeanneRose2012
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NEROLI. HISTORY & COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN ~ Native to Europe and Siberia naturalized worldwide.
It seems that the bitter or sour orange is a native of China in the southeastern part of Asia. From there it spread out to India and Iran. The Romans did not know it and it was introduced to the Mediterranean area around 1000 A.D. by the Arabs, and this bitter Orange was the only one known for about 500 years. Did those expert distillers and alchemists, the Moors, distill bitter Orange to get the water or the essential oil? We don’t know. The lovely Neroli oil was first mentioned by J.B. della Porta in 1563 for the Princess of Neroli.
NEROLI. BITTER ORANGE. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT, HABITAT & GROWTH ~ The bitter Orange tree that produces Neroli essential oil is very close in appearance to the sweet Orange. However, they may look similar but the fruit they produce is different. Bitter Orange produces a bitter flesh and pungent sweet essential oil from the flower (called Neroli) while sweet Orange has a sweet flesh and markedly different essential oil from the rind (called sweet Orange oil). This Orange is used as a rootstock in groves of sweet orange and if the sweet Orange can go wild, the bitter Orange rootstock will often take over and the subsequent fruit will be sour and the flowers sweet like Neroli. The tree has a long-life span, up to 100 years. They are propagated by seed and/or grafting onto a disease-resistant rootstock; the young trees are planted out in April-May; they must be well taken care of throughout their life; early evening, or nighttime irrigation is most important in the early years to set good roots.
The flowers are harvested from late April to June when the buds just begin to open and in their early years were done according to herbal principals, “harvest in the morning when the dew is dry but before the sun is high”. Now harvesting often goes on until noon particularly on warm sunny days. If the flowers are picked when closed, the odor of the oil is ‘green’, but these yield a strong Neroli water.
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2003, Harvesting, Neroli flowers near Fresno at Olsen Organic Farm for distilling.
PORTION OF PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS & YIELD ~ Bud blossoms of the true Bitter (sour) Orange tree, Citrus x aurantium Linnaeus, (subsp. Amara) L., on being distilled yield Neroli bigarade oil. If, on the other hand, the leaves, and petioles (leaf stalk) are distilled, oil and hydrosol of Petitgrain Bigarade is obtained. Flowers of Bitter orange must not be mixed with the flowers of sweet Orange as the properties , specific gravity and chemistry are different.
THE flowers are harvested from March to May or April to June depending on the area and hydro-distilled for the Neroli oil and hydrosol. > The flowers are hydro-distilled not steam-distilled and must float freely in the distillation waters (justlike Roses and Ylang-Ylang).< Annually 2-3 tons is produced, mainly in North Africa such as Morocco and Tunisia. In North Africa, the bulk of the flower harvest is hydro-distilled, and the balance extracted with volatile solvents which yields concrete and absolute of orange flowers as well as a floral wax.
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YIELD ~ The small, white, waxy flowers from the citrus tree are hydro-steam distilled. 850 kg of carefully picked Orange flowers yields 1 kg of Neroli oil after distillation. Or 1 kg of Orange blossoms yields about 1 g. of Neroli oil, and this oil is affected by the atmospheric conditions when it is distilled. Yield: 0.8-1.0%.
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The Neroli flowers
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ESSENTIAL FLOWER WAX OR FLORAL WAX is the vegetable wax from the flowers, the solid material that is left after the plant scent is alcohol-extracted and chilled. This separates the wax (the solid material) from the essential oil. This process and new perfume substance can only be done in the laboratory or in the perfume industry.
The production of essential wax is a result of solvent extraction that is used on delicate flowers whose scent would be destroyed by steam distillation. Only the flowers that are undamaged and are freshly picked and selectively chosen are collected and taken to the extraction plant. The flowers are mixed with the solvent, which results in the floral concrète. The concrète is then thoroughly mixed with and dissolved in high proof alcohol. Then this is chilled. The fragrant tincture and wax separates via the cold and the tincture is filtered off. The alcohol tincture is treated via vacuum distillation or simple evaporation that removes the alcohol leaving the absolute (scent) behind. The wax is collected separately.
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NEROLI ODOR DESCRIPTION ~ Neroli has a refreshing and distinctive, light to strong floral aroma with powdery and aldehydic notes, very fresh with a warm base note that resembles freshly dried hay. Because of the high price of Neroli it is ever more frequently diluted or adulterated with aromatic isolates, and synthetic odors or with Petitgrain. It can somewhat resemble Petitgrain in its odor as often Petitgrain is used to adulterate Neroli oil. (see Odor Snapshots at the end of the article).
[Scent-producing floral organs (osmophores) have epidermis cells with pronounced conical shapes. The conical shape of the epidermal cells obviously increases the scent-emitting surface of the cells when compared with flat epidermal cells typical for vegetative organs. One frequently stated interpretation is that the structures facilitate emission of scent molecules by increasing the surface area of the epidermal cells.]
CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ Neroli contains l-linalyl acetate and l-linalool as well as nerolidol and indole. Ocimenes, limonene, linaloöl and linalyl acetate are higher in Neroli than Petitgrain. Indole which possesses a powerful exotic floral note at high dilution and a somewhat fresh breast-fed baby poop odor when not diluted separates and differentiates Neroli from Petitgrain. This indole odor is sometimes very prevalent in the Neroli hydrosol. Methoxypyrazine contributes to a green character, which also is the interesting green note in Galbanum and Green Peppers.
[In the citrus peels, Limonene, a compound of the terpene family, is present in the essential oil of citrus peel. The limonene structure has a chiral center, and thus it is found in nature as a mirror-image, two enantiomers the (R)- and (S)-limonene. (R) is clockwise or right hand Isomer and has the characteristic sweet smell of oranges, while the (S) is counterclockwise or sinistral- left hand isomer and smells like the sour of lemons or bitter Orange. ]
SOLUBILITY ~ The essential oil is soluble in 1-2 volumes of 80% alcohol and gets hazy to turbid if you add more.
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NEROLI PROPERTIES
The properties of Neroli include a quieting calming sedative effect upon inhalation, adding the hydrosol in coffee is calming when that feeling of excess caffeine takes over after a cup or two, and the EO is used externally in skincare products to soften or as a skin-healing scar-reducing or tonic addition.
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NEROLI ~ PHYSICAL USES & HOW USED
Application: On hemorrhoids, in skin care, in perfumery. It is especially useful in skin-care products for acne, anti-aging with Galbanum and Elemi, and applied for under-eye circles.
Ingestion: Take a scant drop in your tea for Insomnia, or for diarrhea. Put a scant drop in a bottle of champagne as an aphrodisiac. Neroli water is used for nervous dyspepsia, abdominal spasm, and colic. Neroli water when mixed with Orange honey and warm water is good for cranky children when drunk.
Inhalation: The oil is inhaled for fatigue, birthing, palpitations, and cardiac spasms.
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NEROLI ~ EMOTIONAL USES
Application: Apply in a balm on the wrists or back of neck for nervous depression.
Inhalation: Inhale the scent for depression, or as a mild sedative that is both joyous and uplifting. It is stabilizing and grounding, soothing, calming and sedating and can alleviate insomnia, PMS, and soothe fever.
NEROLI ~ ENERGETIC USES
Inhalation: It is used for shock, grief, and depression. It is used in blends to increase concentration, to ease the pain of emotional abuse, to ease shocking news, with Frankincense at the death of a loved one, for manic depression of fear of personal change and feelings, for loneliness and grief. The essential oil is truly a friend of the fearful and depressed.
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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ The essential oil or the Neroli hydrosol may be diffused in a child’s room for reducing a temper tantrum, relaxing and assisting in sleep, or a ½ teaspoon of the Neroli hydrosol in water can be given for insomnia.
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NEROLI FLORAL WAX
NEROLI FLORAL WAX USES ~ Neroli floral wax can be added to any skincare product such as balms, lotions, creams, sunscreen products. It will turn a lotion into a cream or a cream into a balm. The addition of Neroli floral wax adds antioxidant properties, aids in blocking harmful UV rays, is calming and soothing to the skin, helps eliminate dead skin cells, helps improve dull hair when used in haircare products, helps reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles. It contains carotenoids and is rich in Vitamin E. Neroli floral wax softens skin, and tones and soothes sensitive skin and can be used in all your anti-aging formulas. There are 1250 flowers in 1 gram of the floral wax.
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NEROLI HYDROSOL (Orange Flower WATER) & BITTER ORANGE PEEL Uses ) ~ Neroli hydrosol/water is one of the most important herbal products used in the Middle Eastern world. True Neroli hydrosol is used in Spain and Tunisia in foods as a flavoring agent particularly in baked goods, confectionary and in drinks and it is the hydrosol that is taken for insomnia. The bitter Orange peel is also used as a sweetmeat in Greece and Turkey and is a delicious addition to a variety to desserts such as ice-cream.
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JeanneRose distilling orange flowers at Olsen Organic Farm – 2003
NEROLI DISTILLATION TALE
NEROLI HYDROSOL ~ In March 2003, I had the opportunity to distill 5 pounds of organic Orange flowers for sweet Neroli Hydrosol obtained from a sweet navel Orange, variety Atwood in Lindsay, CA. from the Olsen Organic Farm. As follows.
The trees were grown in the foothills edging the great central valley of California near the town of Lindsay. The trees are grown organically, at 500 feet with a west exposure in full sun and the area is certified organic. The area is irrigated via the San Joaquin River. The soil is USDA Porterville cobbly clay. There is about 12 inches of rainfall per year. The harvest was on Wednesday 3/25/03 from about 15 trees. Harvest weather was overcast to full sun, about 75°F with 30% humidity. It took 6 hours for two persons to fill 13 five-gallon buckets with twigs and flowers. This was transported to San Francisco and arrived on Thursday. Each tree produced about 1 bucket (3.3 lbs./bucket) of easily available twigs with flowers. This effectively gently pruned the tree of excess flowers and will leave it able to produce more and tastier Oranges.
At the farm on the following Saturday, we started with 43 pounds of twiglets that had blossoms and buds attached. It took 3-man hours (1 hour each for 3 persons) to pick off the flowers and to accumulate the 5 pounds of just-opened flowers with the balance of the twigs and flowers saved for the larger still. The fragrance was sweet, intense, floral, and fruity with some green back notes. We assembled the 25-liter copper alembic still and loaded it at 2 pm with 5 lbs. of morning picked flowers and 3 gallons of spring water. The flowers were kept above the bottom of the pot with a (copper) grid and freely floating in the boiling water. Distillation ran very well, and the distillate began to run at about 2:15 p.m. We continued the distillation until 5:45 pm at which time 1.5 gallons of Orange flower hydrosol had been accumulated. The pH changed from 6.1 at 2:25 pm to 5.3 at 2:45 pm and continued at 5.3 until the end. The heads (scent) had an odor of fruit, green and floral, the body (scent) was floral, fruity, and citrus. Distillation was discontinued when the odor began to get green with no floral or citrus notes.
A 4-inch copper tube was added to the gooseneck. Two hours of distillation produced 1.2 gallons of hydrosol. pH began at 5, the scent being green and citrus and as the distillation continued, pH became more acid to 4.4, the scent becoming more rich, citrus, and spicy. 3 ml of essential oil was produced from the 38 pounds of twigs and flowers. [The balance of the leaves and flowers (38 pounds) that had been picked was sent to the larger stainless-steel unit, 1-hour north and produced hydrosol about 1 quart per pound.]
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Neroli Hydrosol Use – 2003. This was a wonderful hydrosol, very fragrant and sweet. It was used in skin care products and simply as a mister. Several misting products were produced using the hydrosol. Mixed 50/50 with Spearmint hydrosol produced a very refreshing and fragrant fruity, citrus mint hydrosol. Fabulous…oh how I wish I had some now.
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There are many Neroli hydrosol/Orange flower water products on the market. Many are available in your nearby liquor/bottle store as an addition to beverages. Others are available through your herbal/aromatic stores.
Hydrosol from Morocco and a trio of Neroli/Orange flower water. Photo of Neroli Hydrosol courtesy of Nature’s Gift (https://www.naturesgift.com/)
In the book, Harvest to Hydrosol, is a GC-MS of a Neroli from Canada, 2013, that shows sorbic acid -a preservative, and a large amount of a-terpineol and an even larger amount of linalool. What I found most interesting however, was the tiny amount of the unpleasant greasy smelling aldehyde nonanal and may be what makes Neroli excellent for perfumery but not in a deodorant. •
KEY USE ~ Neroli is inhaled for depression and fatigue and used extensively in fine perfumery and the hydrosol taken for insomnia.
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NEROLI. BLENDING & PERFUMERY FORMULAS
Read the Perfumery blog to understand some of the nuances of Perfumery.
BLENDING ~Neroli blends well with just about any oil and especially with other citrus such as Grapefruit and Bergamot; and deeply floral odors such as Champaca, Osmanthus; with woody odors such as all the different Sandalwoods or Tonka bean; seed odors such as Coriander; spicy odors like Cardamom, Nutmeg and Styrax; the resin odors of Frankincense, Galbanum, Balsam of Peru/Tolu.
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NEROLI IS ONE OF THE CLASSIC INGREDIENTS IN EAU DE COLOGNE.
The famous eau de cologne was made by Italian perfumer J.M. Farina of Cologne, Germany, who created a blend of essential oils inspired by the princess of Nerola. The blend included Bergamot, Lemon, Bitter Bigarade, Neroli and Rosemary. Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made by first dissolving the essential oils in the alcohols and then distilling it, then adding the Rosemary and Neroli (water) to the distillate.
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1st Method: “Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made by dissolving the essential oils in the alcohols* and then distilling it, then adding the Rosemary oil and Neroli oil to the distillate. The classic eau de cologne contained Bergamot, Lemon, Bitter Bigarade + grape alcohol, Neroli water and either Rosemary hydrosol or Neroli essential oil.”
*This refers only to neutral grape spirits. ••
It is not the number of oils that determines the fineness of a perfume,but the manner in which certain odors are combined.— George Askinson
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2nd Method: Dissolve the aromatics in 95% neutral grape spirits — distill — add the Neroli and the Rosemary. Effect the dilution required with Orange flower water or Rose water by adding up to 8-10 quarts or if the original formula is divided by 10 use 3-4 cups of the floral water.
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Maia’s FLORAL-WOODY SCENT TOP – Neroli 5 – 10 drops HEART – Rose Bourbonia 10 drops BASE – Sandalwood Hawaiian 10 drops Diluent – Cane Alcohol 50 drops
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BROWN SUGAR FORMULA. The essence of brown sugar; sweet and fortifying, uplifting, and refreshing. Use as an inhalant or in blends — aftershave, astringent tonics, face wash or a sweet massage.
Smell brown sugar first to establish the scent in your mind and then start blending. Mix together, Lemon, Neroli, Patchouli, Tangerine. Mix these basic scents together in the combination that will most resemble brown sugar.
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FLORAL-FLORAL PERFUME – 9/25/13 (JR) (the numbers are in drops, by volume not weight) Top Note – 20 of Lavender abs + 20 of Neroli abs bridge to the heart note – 2 of Bergamot Heart Note – 10 of Champaca + 5 of Orange + 20 of Jasmine abs bridge to the base note – 1 of Cardamom Base Note – 6 of Patchouli + 6 of Spikenard Fixative note – (1•1000) Make a dilution first & use 1-drop of the Ambergris dilution Add 100-200 drops grape spirits to dilute. You want a perfume at 25-50%.
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NEROLI. JEANNE ROSE EXPERIENCE WITH THIS SCENT. Here is a lovely Perfume with Neroli that I call
To make these lovely perfumes, mix each note separately and let them age for a week. After a week mix the main notes together and then let that age. Then in the 3rd week, start adding the bridge note — all of it or part of it, however you like. Now let that age again. Then add an equal amount of carrier (200 drops). I prefer neutral grape spirits, but you can use a carrier oil if you wish. It just makes a different smelling perfume. Age again and then finally after a month or 5 weeks you will have a fabulous perfume at 50%. You may wish to dilute to 25%.
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HISTORICAL USES ~ This tree, Citrus x aurantium, the bitter orange tree produces three different essential oils and a precious hydrosol. Bitter Orange oil comes from the peel of the ripe fruit, Petitgrain oil is distilled from the leaves and twigs, and Neroli oil is hydro-distilled from the flowers of the tree and the precious orange-flower water or Neroli hydrosol is the water of the distillation.
The bitter peel is preserved in sugar and eaten as a sweet with coffee.
Bitter Orange Peel as a sweet
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INTERESTING FACTS ~ “Neroli was employed as a scent by the prostitutes of Madrid, so they would be recognized by its aroma. On the other hand, the blossoms were worn as a bridal headdress and carried as a bouquet, symbolizing purity, and virginity. Together with Lavender, Bergamot, Lemon, and Rosemary oils, Neroli was a key constituent of the classic toilet water eau-de-Cologne” Aromatherapy for Healing the Spirit, p.100.
• Fine perfumes can only be made with freshly distilled 70-95% neutral grape spirits. All the older perfumes were diluted down with neutral grape spirits. Originally, they were considered medicines and were taken internally by the drop. After the introduction of synthetics, around 1850, perfumes were made with chemicalized ingredients and were no longer edible. However, even today certain uplifting ‘spirits’ are sold in Europe as a tonic against seasickness, carsickness, and all sorts of nausea.
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Neroli so special and sweet It doesn’t smell like a beet When I’m nervous or sad And don’t want to feel bad I diffuse it and jump to my feet. —JeanneRose
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NEROLI • A Favorite Tomato Tale from 1994
At the age of seven, Gloria Rawlinson (1918–1995), the poet, was afflicted with polio. She had been born in Tonga and raised in New Zealand. She was hospitalized for four years as a result of the polio and was bedridden or confined to a wheelchair for the rest of her life. She became a poet of significant achievement, eventually to be crowned the “the child poet of New Zealand” and later to become a biographer of other significant authors. She wrote the Perfume Vendor in 1935, a book of poems heavily influenced with the exotic scents of Tonga and New Zealand. I heard of this talented poet towards the end of her life, about 1990 and was given her book as a gift by a friend. The book is fantastical, child-like, original and a lovely fragrant read. I included her poem of the same name, The Perfume Vendor” in my own book called The Aromatherapy Bookthat was published in 1992. Around this time, maybe 1993, I was invited to a formal event at the New Zealand Embassy here in San Francisco where I met the Consul General. I had wanted to write a thank-you note to Gloria Rawlinson for the hours of enjoyable reading, and I mentioned this to him. We spoke for a moment, and he said he would see if her address was available. Several days after the event, I received Ms. Rawlinson address in the mail and promptly wrote her a letter. I am hoping that she received the letter and knew that there were still fans of hers in the United States. She had suffered ill-health for years and died in 1995.
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Here is a small part of a poem from the Perfume Vendor ...
OH! My place is taken I see— The other vendors envy me, The perfume-merchant, Neroli. ….. I am come home To my scent bazaar, With the rhizome Of Iris florentina, (You call it orris-root)— Gum-resins, myrrh, opopanax, Tolu, and sandal-wood, storax And fifteen ounces of oil of cedar to boot— …… “Ben Neroli—Ben Neroli— Will you please allow me? To dip My little finger-tip In the Jasmine bowl?”
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SCIENCE ARTICLE: NEROLI – PAIN REDUCING. J Nat Med. 2015 Jul;69(3):324-31. doi: 10.1007/s11418-015-0896-6. Epub 2015 Mar 12.Analgesic and anti-inflammatory activities of Citrus aurantium L. blossoms essential oil (neroli): involvement of the nitric oxide/cyclic-guanosine monophosphate pathway. Khodabakhsh P1, Shafaroodi H, Asgarpanah J. Abstract The analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties of Citrus aurantium L. blossoms essential oil (neroli) was investigated in mice and rats. The analgesic activity of neroli was assessed … while acute and chronic anti-inflammatory effects were investigated …. … The results suggest that neroli possesses biologically active constituent(s) that have significant activity against acute and especially chronic inflammation and have central and peripheral antinociceptive effects which support the ethnomedicinal claims of the use of the plant in the management of pain and inflammation. PMID: 25762161 [PubMed – in process]. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25762161
References: Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Krieger Publishing Company, FL. 1974 Harman, Ann. Harvest to Hydrosol, 1st edition, 2015, IAG Botanics http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25762161 Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 3rd Edition 2014 updates, Cambridge University Press Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 3rd Edition 2014 updates, Cambridge University Press Ohloff, Günther. Scent and Fragrances, The Fascination of Odors. Springer-Verlag. Rawlinson, Gloria. The Perfume Vendor. Hutchinson & Co. 1937. Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Rose, Jeanne. Natural Botanical Perfumery. Available from the author at www.jeannerose.net/
MANDARIN & TANGERINE OIL and the Plant ~ A complete description of this part of the Citrus family with familial ties, country of origin, characteristics, body care, skin care, formulas, and recipes on how to use this oil.
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Mandarin and Tangerine, both are Citrus reticulata Blanco var., either Mandarin or Tangerine are the LATIN BINOMIAL/BOTANICAL nameswhile Clementine is considered Citrus x reticulata var. Clementine and is discussed elsewhere > https://jeannerose-blog.com/clementine-fruit-scent/ …
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If you want to twist your brain cells, look at the incestuous crosses, backcrossing, mutations, aberrations, speciation events, hybrids, genetic mixings, varieties, groups or outgroups, rootstock changes, and terroir effects of the many Citrus types to understand the various citrus fruits, we have now. Anywhere from 12 up to 162, different ones are accorded subspecies or varietal names. Mandarin can be called Citrus reticulata var. mandarin, and Tangerine can be called Citrus reticulata var. tangerina. Mandarin has also been called var. deliciosa, and of course, it has other names as well. But as Mabberley says of citrus, “… the morphological distinctions are slight and much of the commercially significant striking degustatory distinction rests on a subtlety, the presence and relative proportions of the two stereoisomers of limonene, one of which is bitter (as in lemon), the other sweet (as in mandarin), resulting in the differing tastes (and smell) of the flesh and juice.”
By Jeanne Rose ~ November 2023
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There is a naming problem in citrus, and it is complicated by the number of edible citrus that are recognized … up to 162.
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FIVE PURE-ORIGIN CITRUS GENERA
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Examples of hybrid Citrus, showing their derivation from the pure founder species,from an analogous chart in Curk et al., 2016, with addition from Swingle’s original limequat report. — Author Agricolae
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FAMILY ~ Rutaceae
NAMING ~ All Tangerines are Mandarins, but not all Mandarins are Tangerines generally, this is a difference of terroir. A Tangerine is a cultivar of the Mandarin Citrus reticulata. Despite the common name, it is just a different variety of Mandarin, Mandarin from China, and Tangerine from the Americas.
“Asian art, especially from China and India, often features the Mandarin crowned with thin, green leaves and clinging delicately from a willowy tree. Mandarins are noted for loose skin, often referred to as “kid glove” because it’s soft and easy to peel, the Mandarin that we know is juicy and somewhat tart with seeds. The height of the winter season finds an abundance of Mandarins in the markets, often sitting next to Tangerines.”1
All citrus is native to Asia, the Philippines, and India, and it found its way from the orchards and the art easel across the Eur-Asian continent to Europe and then to the United States.
INTERESTING FACTS about the Naming ~ The name comes from the mandarins of Cochin, China, where it originates, and to whom the fruit was offered as a gift”, Essential Aromatherapy, p. 147. Mandarins or Tangerines are given at Christmas in the Christmas stocking as a stand-in for the gold coins that were a tradition. They are also given for good luck and abundance at Chinese New Year, which normally is in late January and February.
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Tangerines,Clementine,andSatsumas are three varieties of the mandarin orange and the most popular. Because the Mandarin orange can easily be crossed with other citrus, varieties pop up in differing climates (terroir) worldwide. Growing seasons also differ, with some Tangerine harvests coming in through June.
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COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN OF ESSENTIAL OIL ~ Good quality Mandarin oil comes from Italy, Clementine oil from Italy and the United States, and Tangerine oil from the USA.
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GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT, HABITAT, & GROWTH ~ Mandarin and Tangerine are from a fruit-producing evergreen shrub with dark-green glossy leaves and fragrant flowers.
Mandarin, Citrus reticulata (syn. C. nobilis) (Rutaceae). “The Mandarin tree comes from southern China (a Mandarin was a Chinese government official attired in a yellow dress). Today, the Mandarin fruit is mostly known as the seed-less, loosely peeled variety sometimes called Clementine, created by Pierre Clément in a lucky crossing experiment around 1900 when he was a leader of the agricultural school in Oran in Algeria.” 2
“Mandarin groves are well-known in Sicily and are scattered throughout the provinces of Messina, Catania, and Palermo. Mandarin oil is made by collecting the fruit peel and cold-pressing.
The oil called Green Mandarin (not ripe) is harvested from February through May; the oil called yellow Mandarin (not fully ripe) is harvested during October and November, and (fully ripe) red Mandarin oil from fruits harvested from December to January.
Tangerine, Citrus reticulata, “Dancy Tangerine is direct from an established manufacturer (since 1985) in Florida with access to some of the freshest fruit available.”3 The largest plantings come from Florida.
The first American tangerine was introduced to the market by the legendary citrus grower Col. Adam Dancy in 1867-1868. This acidic, richly flavored fruit immediately established a new category of citrus product in the United States – less tart than an orange, more complex and brighter than a Pomelo, and not oversweet like the Chinese Sweet Orange then in fashion.4
The Tangerine is just a variety of Mandarin orange and is often confused with the Clementine. They are both very close in taste and appearance but not the same fruit. Tangerines are a tropical fruit and are grown in USA climate zones 8 to 11. Standard trees that are planted outdoors will reach a height between 10 and 15 feet. Plant it where it is sunny and warm in good soil. As they grow, the tree branches may bow down, and there may be wart-like growths on the trunk. As with many citrus, they may be grown on a different rootstock. Ripe and ready to pick from February to April — the harvest season depends on terroir and may differ in different areas.
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Clementine, Citrus x reticulata, a popular stocking stuffer during the Christmas holiday, is the smallest member of this group. The honey-sweet, seedless Clementine is the most eater-friendly of the Mandarin orange types and is a subgroup of the Tangerine. Tangerine vs. Clementine qualities include a thin skin on the Clementine that is tighter than a Tangerine but so easy to peel that a child can do it. They are harvested from February to April, depending on the area.
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The differences between Mandarin and Tangerine cannot be explained by the differences in the way the oil is expressed because often identical methods are used…“The soil, climatic and cultural conditions (terroir) prevailing in the various producing sections …have a certain, perhaps a fundamental, influence upon the chemical composition and, therefore, upon the physicochemical properties of the oils.”5
Tangerine and Clementine Differences ~ Tangerines are smaller and sweeter than an Orange yet larger than a Mandarin, and they have a rind that’s darker in color. The Tangerine emigrated to America from Morocco’s port of Tangiers, from which it got its name. Tangerine qualities include a reddish-orange skin that distinguishes it from the lighter-skinned Mandarin. Tangerines are the most popular type of Mandarin, but they are more tart in taste. Like the Mandarin, Tangerines have seeds. The longer growing season puts Tangerines in the market from November through May.
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THE KEEPING QUALITIES OF CITRUS OILS “Lemon and Orange oils and other citrus oils improve after a year or two of cold storage in that some of the dissolved waxes separate from the oil and may be removed easily by filtration. The resulting oils are more soluble and produce clearer extracts. Neither odor nor flavor is impaired if the oils are kept in tin-lined fully filled drums.”5
All the many Mandarin oils, Tangerine oils and Clementine oils I have collectedover the years – all in one place at one time.
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PART OF PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS & YIELD ~
For Mandarin fruit, 100 kg of whole fruit yields 750-850 g. of oil. Green Mandarin essential oil is cold pressed from the peel of unripe green fruits. Yellow Mandarin essential oil is cold pressed from the peel of partially ripened fruits. Red Mandarin essential oil is cold pressed from the peel of fully ripened, mature fruits. The scent of each of these oils is slightly different and will express this slight difference into any blends used.
Tangerine, when using the rotary juice extractor for juice (cuts and halves and expresses the juice) and then the screw press is used to extract the peel oil, the peel yields an oil of a deep orange color and very nice odor and flavor. The yield is about 2 lb. per U.S. ton of fruit.
Clementine is not mentioned in Guenther’s book, and I have been unable to find an exact yield of essential oil to weight in any one of the 10 sources that were checked.
Yield is 0.7%-0.8%. The essential oil of these citruses is either cold-pressed or sometimes steam-distilled from the peel (flavedo).
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ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS Mandarin is named in relationship to its ripeness when harvested.
THE Sensory QUALITIESEO
REDMANDARIN
YELLOW MANDARIN
GREENMANDARIN
TANGERINE
CLEMENTINE
Color:
Light yellow
Yellow to greenish
Green-yellow
Golden orange
Pale yellow
Clarity:
clear
clear
clear
clear
clear
Viscosity:
Non-viscous
Non-viscous
Non-viscous
Non-viscous
Non-viscous
Taste of EO:
Sour, bitter back
sour
Bitter
Sweet, sour back note
Bitter, sour
Intensity of Odor from 1 – 10
5
4
3-4
4-5
4
Tenacity in blendFrom 1-10
4
4
4-5
4-5
4
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ODOR DESCRIPTION ~ The scent of two of these five oils is shown in the ‘snapshot’ odor charts at the end of this post. They are all citrus, fruity, and then with various back notes that separate them by odor. “You will know them by their odor.”7
MANDARIN ~The scent is certainly connected to the chemistry. Mandarin (Citrus reticulata Blanco) and the cold-pressed oils of Tangerine and Clementine contain considerable amounts of methyl N-methyl anthranilate. According to some, if you mix this component with thymol in the correct proportions, you can duplicate a scent that is reminiscent of Mandarin. Add the terpenes of y-terpinene and –b-pinene, and you can get an even more natural scent. A-sinensal is abundant in Mandarin oil up to 0.2%.
When Clementine from Spain was analyzed by GC/MS, several new odorants were found but ‘No single odorant emerged as being characteristic of clementine oil aroma.’8
SOLUBILITY ~ Mandarin is soluble in 7-10 volumes of 90% alcohol with some turbidity, and Tangerine is incompletely soluble in 95% alcohol. With some age, the waxes will separate out and can be filtered off, and the oil is more soluble.
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CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ The morphological distinctions of citrus are slight …. and much of the (taste test) distinction rests on a subtlety, the presence, and relative proportions of the two stereoisomers of limonene, one of which is bitter (as in lemon), the other sweet (as in mandarin), resulting in the differing tastes (and scent) of the flesh and juice.
“Mandarin oil is made by cold-pressing the peels of true Mandarin and has an elegant, deep, sweet, orange-like character; it is used in liqueurs and perfumery. The major odor impact compounds are the sesquiterpene aldehyde alpha-sinensal, also characterizing orange oil, and the aromatic ester methyl N-methyl anthranilate, giving the oil a neroli-like character (and a blue fluorescence).”
“ Clementine peel oil, on the other hand, is dominated by unsaturated aliphatic aldehydes…., with an odor reminiscent of Coriander leaf and having a high tenacity on the skin, together with sinensal and linalool.”2
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HISTORICAL USES ~ Mandarin/Tangerine trees’ fruit was historically used for digestive purposes.
Photo by Jeanne Rose
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GENERAL PROPERTIES of Mandarin/Tangerine Oil and Herb/Fruit
Properties are by IG=ingestion, IN=inhalation or AP=application. By Ingestion, these citrus fruits (not the EO) are digestive, tonic, and stomachic; by inhalation, the EO is sedative, soporific, relaxant, calmative, tonic, and antispasmodic; and by application, the EO is astringent and slightly antiseptic.
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PHYSICAL USES & HOW USED (IG OR AP)
Application ~ If you use the essential oil in your skincare products, Mandarin and Tangerine will give these products slightly astringency and be slightly antiseptic. In a moisturizer, they will help tone and tighten skin, contributing to healthier and younger-looking skin.
Ingestion ~ The essential oils of Clementine, Tangerine, and Mandarin are used in food products, so yes, they are used internally. But these are extremely small amounts of the EO in any product; we suggest that unless they are significantly, very highly diluted in food or in an oil, that you eat the fruits and use the oils in external blends or by inhalation.
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EMOTIONAL/ENERGETIC/MEDITATIVE USES (AP OR IN) ~ Tangerine or yellow or red Mandarin EO will soothe grief, anger, and shock and, when combined with Marjoram in a diffuser or, upon inhalation, will aid sleep. Since Mandarin is usually more expensive than Tangerine, I suggest you use Tangerine and I suspect that Clementine will work as well as any of these.
DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ These warm, sparkling-bright citrus oils have great value in blends to cleanse the room air and refresh the senses. They are often very calming, soothing, and relaxing.
JeanneRose photo of perfume bottles and paperweights
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BLENDING & PERFUMERY ~ Mandarin, Tangerine, and Clementine will blend well with all other citrus and can feminize the deep Chypre blends, warm-up woody blends, and work to brighten any floral blend. These three can be used with resins and Mediterranean herbs such as Marjoram, Lavender, and Rosemary, and they are an important part of most top notes in fine perfumery. For a crisp scent, use green Mandarin or green Lemon; for warmer heart notes, use the riper citrus such as yellow or red Mandarin and Tangerine.
• NIGHT IN THE CITY PERFUME Think shiny suits, cigarette smoke, martinis, big flashy cars and brunettes TOP NOTE – 68-78 58 d Elemi 10 d. Green Mandarin 10 d green Lemon BRIDGE NOTE TO HEART – 10 10 d Cocoa abs HEART NOTE -68 18 d Black Pepper 28 d Jasmine sambac abs 22 Rose abs BRIDGE NOTE TO BASE – 4 4 d Tobacco 2 d Juniper (Juniperus communis) BASE NOTE -76 12 d Cinnamon 16 d Zdravetz 48 d Sandalwood (I prefer New Caledonia Sandalwood here)
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HYDROSOL ~ I have been having a fine time using Mandarin hydrosol in my bath to soothe the skin and on my face as a toner. I have also used a teaspoon full in my tea in the afternoon and tried a bit in coffee to take the edge off the tannins. The citrus hydrosols are readily available in season or by special order from various companies.
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HERBAL USE OF THESE FRUITS AND PEELS ~ When you use citrus, there are many ways that all parts can be used. You can squeeze and drink the juice, then dry the peel for potpourri; you can eat the fruit and collect the peels to hydro-distill for a lovely hydrosol, or you can slice and dry the fruit and use it for decorations on your Christmas tree or in your winter potpourri. The dried slices of any citrus look very festive on a Christmas tree, and then when Christmas is over, the slices can be used to scent your potpourri; if there is enough scent left, they can be tinctured for perfume. I don’t think I would eat them at this point as they would have been in the air for over two weeks and will smell rather ‘tired.’
Dried Mandarin slices – I hang these on the Christmas tree for scent and color.
Food Usage ~ TESTED AGAINST MICROORGANISMS ~ The essential oils from peels of Mandarin and Clementine were examined and tested. “Among the tested microorganisms, the oils were very active against Candida albicans, Escherichia coli, Lysteria innocua, Methicillin-Resistant S. aureus, and Staphylococcus aureus with an inhibition zone varied from 9.16 to 27.63 mm. … All citrus oils studied exhibited antioxidant activity as DPPH free radical scavenger and reducing power in dose-dependent manner. Mandarin oil showed the strongest activity compared to Clementine and the Wilking cultivar essential oils.
The oils may be recommended as safe plant-based antimicrobials as well as antioxidants for enhancement of shelf life of food commodities.”6
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KEY USE ~ The fruit as a food and the essential oil as a sleeping aid.
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ODOR SNAPSHOTS USING THE JEANNE ROSEADVANCED VOCABULARY OF ODOR
Tangerine & Green Mandarin
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LEARN TO SMELL AND DETECT ODOR Read The Aromatherapy Book, Chapter 3, pages 63-66 and 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols, Chapter 3, pages 27-31. These two books will assist you in learning how to describe odors. Available at http://www.jeannerose.net/books.html
The limbic system is the seat of memory and learning. Smell from the left nostril and then to the right nostril. The right nostril (right brain-creative) is important in detecting and evaluating the intensity of odor, and this hints at a broad olfactory asymmetry, and the left nostril (left brain or logical) is for smelling location or place.
First Smell and 2nd Smell. “Lurking in the olfactory epithelium, among the mucus-exuding cells, are cells that are part of the system that innervates the face (trigeminal nerve). It is suspected that pungent and putrid molecules penetrate them, interact with their proteins, and stimulate them to fire. Thus, there are two types of olfaction: first smell, the ordinary type for specific odors, and second smell for nonspecific pungency and putridity.”
There is also left brain and right brain smell-ability. The left brain smells location (maybe via logical use of EMG waves), while the right brain smells intensity. The closer you get – the more intense the odor.
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References to articles
1https://www.leaf.tv/articles/differences-between-a-mandarin-and-a-tangerine/ 2 http://www.bojensen.net/EssentialOilsEng/EssentialOils.htm 3http://www.edenbotanicals.com 4https://www.slowfoodusa.org/ark-item/dancy-tangerine 5 Guenther: THE ESSENTIAL OILS, volume III, Citrus oils: Krieger. 1949. 6 Chemical profile, antimicrobial and antioxidant activities of Citrus reticulata and Citrus clementina (L.) essential oils, International Food Research Journal 24(4) · August 2017 7 Jeanne Rose lectures and “Natural Perfumery” workbook 6 Chemical profile, antimicrobial and antioxidant activities of Citrus reticulata and Citrus clementina (L.) essential oils, International Food Research Journal 24(4) · August 2017 7 Jeanne Rose lectures and “Natural Perfumery” workbook 8 Characterization of the major odorants found in the peel oil of Clementine. Flavour and Fragrance Journal. 04 July 2003.
References-General Copeland, Dawn. Essential Oil Profiles. Aromatherapy Studies Course. 2000. Harman, Ann. Harvest to Hydrosol http://ultranl.com/products/mandarin-oil-green-italy/ Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 Third Edition with 2014 updates, Cambridge University Press Ohloff, Günther: Scent and Fragrances: Springer-Verlag. 1990. Translated by Pickenhagen and Lawrence Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols Rose, Jeanne. Natural Botanical Perfumery Workbook. 2000 Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations
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WHAT IS THE ‘X’ FOR IN THE NAME ~ Hybrids have an ‘x’ between the genus name and the species name. “Hybrids either get their parents’ names with an ‘x’ in between parent names (mother listed first), or a brand-new species epithet preceded by an ‘x.’ The name for the orange can be listed as Citrus maxima x Citrus reticulata or Citrus x aurantium. You often see the name Citrus sinensis or Citrus x sinensis for oranges, but those are synonym names that should not be used anymore.”
Lime Oil and the Plant ~ A complete description of Lime, family ties, country of origin, characteristics, body care, skin care, formulas, and recipes for using this oil. Lime oil has excellent application in skin care products for its astringency for oily skin and is used for its tart scent, particularly in men’s perfumery.
Lime oil courtesy of PrimaFleur.com 1.
LIME OIL & MAKRUT LIME PROFILE
By Jeanne Rose ~ October 2023
Latin Binomial/Botanical ~ Citrus x aurantiifolia is the Latin binomial for regular Lime oil, and it is also incorrectly listed in various places as Citrus aurantiifolia.
[the x means that it is a cross between other citrus varieties.]
“Bearss Lemons, ” called Lime, is Citrus latifolia or Persian lime. It is like the Lisbon Lemon.
Makrut Lime and Kaffir Lime is C. hystrix. The leaves, as well as the fruit, are eaten in foods and distilled and used in perfumery.
“The lime. *The putative parent differs from the unknown parent of the Lemon; Scora & Kumamoto (1983) consider there may be three wild species in the lime’s ancestry, two of them perhaps from outside subgenus Citrus.”3 The parents of the ‘Mexican Lime are C. micrantha and C. medical, and then the Mexican Lime crossed with Lemon gives the ‘Tahiti’ Lime (C. x latifolia).
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>> If you want to have a fun time scrambling your brains, look at the incestuous crosses, backcrossing, mutations, aberrations, speciation events, hybrids, genetic mixings, varieties, groups or outgroups, rootstock changes, and terroir effects of the many Citrus types to understand the various citrus fruits, we have now. <<
NAMING ~ “The taxonomy of the citrus fruits is complicated by hybridity and apomixis (asexual regeneration), with many stable hybrid lines being accorded species status, so that the number of edible species recognized in the genus Citrus L. … varies from 1 to 162”.1 The current version of the Bearss lemon (lime) originated in the early 50s in Florida and is a popular variety for lemon growers. It is a true Lemon, and it is high in Lemon oil. It is also popular because it produces high-quality fruit, a lot of Lemons on each tree, and because of its peel.”2 (see the Lemon blog: https://jeannerose-blog.com/lemon-peel-oil/) It is also called Citrus x latifolia or Persian lime (also known as Tahiti lime or Bearss lime), a seedless variety.
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And yes, it is very confusing.
Citrus latifolia … 3
COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN of Lime ~ There is a wide range of studies of where and how the diverse Citrus developed or where they were indigenous. They are now naturalized worldwide. Guenther mentions that Lime is probably a native of the East Indian Archipelago and then brought to the Asiatic mainland and on to tropical and subtropical regions of the world. Lime was brought to Europe by the Arabs. Read volume 3, page 287 of The Essential Oils by Guenther for more extensive information.
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GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF LIME CITRUS, PLANT, HABITAT, & GROWTH ~ “The tree seldom grows more than 5 meters (16 feet) high and, if not pruned, becomes shrub-like. Its branches spread and are irregular, with short, stiff twigs, small leaves, and many small, sharp thorns. The evergreen leaves are pale green, and the small white flowers that bloom in spring are usually borne in clusters. The fruit is about 3 to 4 cm (1 to 1.5 inches) in diameter, oval to nearly globular in shape, often with a small apical nipple, and the peel is thin and greenish-yellow when the fruit is ripe. The pulp is tender, juicy, yellowish-green in color, and decidedly acidic. Limes exceed lemons in both acid and sugar content. There are, however, some varieties so lacking in citric acid that they are known as sweet Limes. These are grown to some extent in Egypt and certain tropical countries.”2 “Citrus fruits are notable for their fragrance, partly due to flavonoids and limonoids (which are terpenes) contained in the rind, and most are juice-laden. The juice contains a high quantity of citric acid, giving it its characteristic sharp flavor. “8
This was described as a Meyer Lemon but looks much like the Lime. Photo JeanneRose …4
PORTION OF PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS & YIELD ~The peel is cold-pressed or steam-distilled. If Lime is cold-pressed, “The fruit is peeled and then squeezed, and the essential oil is trapped ‘in a blanket like emulsion composed of albedo [containing all the bioflavonoids], with its pectin and cellulose, water, and essential oils.’ [Fragrance by Edwin Morris] This is put through a screen and then centrifuged. It is then chilled, precipitating and solidifying the waxes from the fruit skin, which drops to the bottom of the collecting tank and is filtered out. The oil settles, then it is filtered again, decanted and stored” Aromatherapy Studies Course, Chapter 3, p. 62
Lime is also steam-distilled, and this eliminates its phototoxicity.
Yield ~ many factors affect the yield of oil from cold-pressed or steam-distilled Lime, including genetic factors, the terroir of the field, whether the peels were dried or pretreated when the Limes were harvested, and more. Guenther mentions that hand-pressed or cold-expressed Lime oil has a pleasing, true-to-nature odor and flavor. The yield of this oil depends on the quality and condition of the fruit, and a barrel of fruit (160 lb.) averages 2.5-3 ounces of oil.
Yield has also been observed as 0.06% for cold-pressed oil and .15% for steam-distilled oil.
5. Citrus limetta, alternatively considered to be a cultivar of Citrus limon, C .x limon ‘Limetta,’ is a species of citrus, commonly known as SWEET LIME, mousambi, sweet lemon, and sweet limetta. It is a member of the sweet lemons, and this only adds to the confusion of the naming of the Citrus. … 5
symbol from Jeanne Rose, The Aromatherapy Book …6
Contraindications ~ Limes, when handled and Lime oil cold pressed, will cause photosensitivity when used undiluted or if exposed to the sun directly after application. They contain furanocoumarins (natural chemicals found in some essential oils). Be wary. Lime peel oil steam-distilled does not have the plant components that cause photosensitivity.
7. PrimaFleur Lime oils – photo by JeanneRose
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Organoleptic Characteristics:
Color:
Colorless or very pale yellow AND when CP a hint of green to dark green
Clarity:
Clear
Viscosity:
Non-viscous, watery
Taste:
Bitter, acidic, sour
Intensity of Odor:
5 and dries down to 3, then a 2. It is a tart, pungent odor.
ODOR DESCRIPTION ~ The distilled lime is prepared by steam distilling whole fruits of (Citrus x aurantifolia (Christm). & Panz.)Swingle). This steam-distilled oil is more important in the fragrance and perfumery industry than cold-pressed oil. The more expensive cold-pressed oil is more like Lemon oil than what we associate organoleptically with Lime peel oil. Germacrene B has a woody-spicy odor that contributes to the fresh odor of Lime Peel oil. [Also includes pinene, linalool, citral, germacrene]4
The scent is clearly a tart citrus as a predominating note, with fresh fruit and herb as subsidiary notes and often a back note of floral and spice. “You will know it when you smell it!”
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SOLUBILITY ~ In cold-pressed oils, because of the presence of natural waxes, it is not clearly soluble in 5 vol. of 90% alcohol. When Lime is steam-distilled, the oil is clearly soluble in 4 vol. and more of 90% alcohol.
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CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ These results for Lime were determined using principal component analysis. Chemotypes have been identified for lime leaf oils as beta-pinene/limonene and Limonene/geranial/neral.
In Lime peel oils, four chemotypes are distinguished: 1) limonene, 2) Limonene/gamma-terpinene, 3) Limonene/beta-pinene/gamma-terpinene, and 4) Limonene/gamma-terpinene/beta-pinene/oxygenated products.
The morphological distinctions between some of the citrus are slight, and “much of the commercially significant striking degustatory (tasty) distinction rests on a subtlety, the presence and relative proportions of the two stereoisomers of limonene, one of which is bitter (as in lemon), the other sweet (as in Mandarin), resulting in the differing tastes of the flesh and juice.”—Mabberly.
The scent and taste chemistry depends on limonene, which has a chiral (stereoisomer) difference — both a left-turning molecule, (S) for sinistral with the sour smell of Lemon or Bitter Orange and a right-turning molecule (D), for right hand or clockwise or dextral, of the sweet smell/taste of Oranges. This is why we all, as lovers of essential oils and aromatherapy, need to learn some chemistry and good taxonomy.
“ecuelle a piquer tool.” … 8
HISTORICAL ~ Citrus was originally relieved of its fragrant rind oil by lacerating the peels by hand. The Description from the Department of Agriculture is: “The ecuelle-a-piquer is used in perfumery, “for lacerating the oil vessels in the rinds of orange, lemon, etc.; the oil collects in the hollow handle, whence it is poured off.” Department of Agriculture, 1899
The ecuelle-a-piquer, a perfumery tool or extracting tool used to extract oils from citrus or orange rind, is a large funnel made of copper with its inner layers tinned. The inner layer has numerous pointed metal needles just long enough to penetrate the epidermis of the ring. The lower stem is a receiver for the oil and is used as a handle…. Now the fresh lemon or lime is placed in the bowl and rotated repeatedly, the oil glands punctured (scarified) and the oil drops into the handle.” — Source: Department of Agriculture Yearbook of the United States Department of Agriculture 1898 (Washington: Government Printing Office, 1899)
In Montserrat, the Foxes Bay Works, workers seen Ecuelling limes. … 9
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INTERESTING FACTS ~ Use Lime oil much in the same way as Lemon oil, although it is more tart than Lemon oil, and with a ‘brighter’ scent, it blends well with Lemon oil. I have one old herb book that says, “inhale the scent of Lime oil to stimulate the muscles of the eye.” How this works, I do not know.
Lime oil photo by JeanneRoseã… 10
PROPERTIES of Lime
Lime oil is used as an astringent and antiseptic, and in perfumery, smells light and bright. Lime oil is somewhat a decongestant, a sedative that treats queasy headaches. It is used In men’s fragrances, and as a general antispasmodic.
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PHYSICAL USES & HOW USED ~ Skin care and body care. Perfumery. Massage oils for scent. It is anti-infectious, antiseptic, antiviral, and somewhat stimulant.
Application – Lime oil has great application in skin care products for its astringency for oily skin and is used for its tart scent particularly in men’s perfumery.
Ingestion – Do not drink Lime oil. There is no vitamin C or ascorbic acid in the oil.
Inhalation – Lime oil is sometimes used in a diffusor with other respiratory oils for respiratory infections.
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EMOTIONAL/ENERGETIC USES (AP OR IN) ~ The essential oil is diluted with calming oils and used by inhalation to calm the nervous system and for insomnia and nightmares. Energetically, it is too energizing to be used in meditation, but it is helpful if you wish to concentrate on something in particular. In spells it is used to freshen, purify, and cleanse an object or tool.
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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ Diffused as a disinfectant in sick rooms and to protect against contagious ailments. Lime oil works best when it is in a blend with other oils that also are both gentle and disinfectant. Try Rosemary/Lime, or Lime/Lemon, or Black Pepper/Lime. All interesting with unique scents.
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BLENDING ~ Lime oil, both cold-pressed and steam-distilled, blends with other citrus as well as oils with a citrus scent such as Clary Sage and Citronella but also to brighten up deep floral absolutes such as Champa, and tame spicy oils such as Ginger and Black Pepper. It can add a bright touch of citrus to an overly sweet floral perfume.
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Citrus Notes ~ Citrus oils are used in the perfumery business to impart a fresh, sparkling note to any blend. They are usually not overpowering. They can be used in up to 25% as the base for a classic type of eau de cologne. Citrus oils harmonize with many other essential oils, and they are used in different concentrations in almost all scent blends and modern perfumes.
>In combination with Lavender oil, citrus oils are the base for English Lavender which is an 1826 creation.< High concentrations of citrus oils are in Chanel No. 5 (1921). Also of importance are the citrus oils in pop drinks like Coca-Cola and others.<
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HYDROSOL ~ I have used Lime Hydrosol and found it very pleasant in scent and useful as an astringent on oily skin. The hydrosol can be added to non-alcoholic drinks for a pleasant acidic citrus taste. Add only a teaspoonful until you know how much taste you wish in your tea or drink.
If you place the Lime hydrosol into a spray bottle, you can spray the inside of a cocktail glass to add a bit of flavor and tartness to your drink — try with Margarita, Daiquiri, Mojito, Cosmopolitan or Gimlet.
Read Harvest to Hydrosol, a book by Ann Harman. She has published several Lime hydrosol GC/MS; one in her book and others at her Circle H website. These are an excellent source of information about the chemistry of the hydrosols. One Lime Hydrosol GC/MS with 0.0259% oil in the hydrosol shows a large quantity of a-terpineol, terpinene-4-ol and other monoterpenols as well as geranial and neral (aldehydes) and more. Every distillation will yield a slightly different chart depending on the species or variety being distilled.
11.Limes x 4 – photo by JeanneRose
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HERBAL USES OF LIME ~ Lime juice is high in (sour) limonene and ascorbic acid and is high in beta- carotene and considered helpful for cancer prevention and is drunk with water for diarrhea and cramps and used externally as a wash for dandruff.
“Distilled lime oil is the chief flavoring ingredient of carbonated nonalcoholic beverages such as Ginger ale, cola drinks and ice cream and baked goods and candy”7.—Guenther vol. III
Kaffir Lime –Thai food has a unique fragrance because of the addition of this small, knobbly, rough-skinned citrus. Both the rind of the fruit and the equally perfumed leaves sliced into thin threads or lightly bruised and left whole when added to curries is a defining aromatic touch. The leaves, if you’ve bought more than you can use in a recipe, freeze well for future use. Or, if you like, drop a couple of leaves into a gin and tonic, a mojito, or a pitcher of lemonade for an exotic twist.
12.Photo by Jeanne Rose
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THE KEEPING QUALITIES OF CITRUS OILS
“Lemon and Orange oils and other citrus even improve after a year or two of cold storage in that some of the dissolved waxes separate from the oil and may be removed easily by filtration. The resulting oils are more soluble and produce clearer extracts. Neither odor nor flavor is impaired if the oils are kept in tin-lined fully filled drums.”7
KEY USE~ Oil of Food & Beverage
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13. Personal drawing for a JeanneRose Book
PERFUMERY FORMULAS
MOJITO BY BRET
TOP NOTE is 25 drops total of a combination of Linden, Bergamot, and white grapefruit Bridge of 1 drop of Lime preferably (Keffir Lime) or Lime CP. A little goes a long way.
HEART NOTE is 25 drops of Patchouli and “sugar”. The ‘Sugar” is something that we make in class and is an equal combination of Pink Grapefruit and yellow Lemon, with a bit of Neroli, Patchouli, and Tangerine made to suit the individual perfumer. Bridge of 1 drop Spearmint BASE NOTE of 25 drops of Oakmoss and Sarsaparilla (mostly Oakmoss). FIXATIVE NOTE is the Oakmoss, which will hold and fix this scent that Bret called “Mojito”.
>75 drops total + 228 drops cane or orange spirits. This makes a 25% scent to 75% EtOH<
Make the scent, succuss it, age it, succuss again, add the neutral spirits, succuss again, age and then smell, bottle, and label.
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MAIA’S FAVORITE CITRUS & SPICE PERFUME
TOP NOTE is Neroli 8 and Bergamot 8 Bridge of Lime 2-4 HEART NOTE is Sandalwood 8 and Lavender 8 (which Lavender oil you use is very important) Bridge of Cedar-wood 4 BASE NOTE is Basil 8 and
Clove 1-2
Total about 50 drops, let this age for 2 weeks, then adjust the formula to suit yourself, add the 95% neutral grape spirits as a diluent – about 150 drops for a 25% perfume percentage or 300 drops for a cologne percentage. Let it age again for several weeks before using.
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SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ~ Limes, when handled or cut, and Lime oil cold-pressed are photosensitizing when used undiluted upon exposure to the sun directly after application. They contain furanocoumarins (natural chemicals found in certain essential oils). Be wary. Lime peel oil steam-distilled does not have the plant components that cause photosensitivity.
Key Limes – photo by JeanneRose… 14
SCIENCE ARTICLE ~ “Even though citrus is a common fruit and easy to use daily, it contains many beneficial substances for human health. It may be a miracle fruit. The phytochemical substances such as alkaloids, carotenoids, coumarins, essential oils, flavonoids, phenolic acids, and triterpenoids exist in citrus abundantly. All these substances have a range of pharmacological properties, especially anticancer properties. C. x aurantifolia was studied for its effect against carcinogenesis by mechanisms such as stopping cancer cell mobility in the circulatory system, inhibiting metastasis, blocking the angiogenesis, and Inducing tumor suppressor gene and apoptosis. The present review suggests that C. x aurantifolia consumption may be used for cancer therapy.5.”
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REFERENCES 1 A classification for edible Citrus (Rutaceae) D.J. Mabberley, unknown date 2 https://www.britannica.com/plant/lime 3 A classification for edible Citrus (Rutaceae) D.J. Mabberley, 1997 4 Ohloff, Günther: SCENT AND FRAGRANCES: Springer-Verlag. 1990. Translated by Pickenhagen and Lawrence {this is the main source}| 5 Pharmacogn Rev. 2016 Jul-Dec; 10(20): 118–122.doi: 10.4103/0973-7847.194043. Anticancer Activity of Key Lime, Citrus aurantifoliabyNithithep Narang, and Wannee Jiraungkoorskul 6 Changes in the Peel Oil Composition of Kagzi Lime (Citrus x aurantifolia Swingle) during Ripening 7Guenther: THE ESSENTIAL OILS, volume III, Citrus oils: Krieger. 1949. 8 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citrus
Harman, Ann. Harvest to Hydrosol [https://botannicals.com/shop/books/harvest-to-hydrosol ] Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 Third Edition with 2014 updates, Cambridge University Press Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. www.jeannerose.net/books.html Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book.www.jeannerose.net/books.html Williams, David G.: THE CHEMISTRY OF ESSENTIAL OILS: Micelle Press. 1996.
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Jeanne Rose copyright 2023 ~ May not be reproduced without permission. aromaticplant@yahoo.com
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SOURCES …….Essential Oils and Absolutes – PrimaFleur.com offers hundreds of products, botanical essential oils, and extracts – including many that are rare and precious. All oils are obtained from aromatic plants grown with integrity and care. They promise you that everything you purchase is of the highest quality and 100% guaranteed. Everyone is welcome to purchase oils and take advantage of bulk pricing. Hydrosols Source – I regularly use the trusted distilling skills of April Treona Lancaster of http://lancastercreations.com/ for many specialized organically-grown and locally sourced hydrosols.
Grapefruit EO & Fruit ~ A complete description, country of origin, characteristics, skin care, formulas, and recipes on how to use this oil, the fruit, as well as facts and fantasies not yet known.
GRAPEFRUIT Oil – Fruit
By Jeanne Rose ~ 2023
Essential oils courtesy of PrimaFleur Botanicals
COMMON NAME/LATIN BINOMIAL ~ Citrus x aurantium (2015), Citrus x paradisi, sometimes called Citrus medica.
______OTHER COMMON NAME/NAMING INFORMATION ~ The Grapefruit group of citrus originates from a back cross of C. x paradisi with a female of C. maxima (Pomelo) and a more up-to-date Latin binomial is Citrus x aurantium.
______FAMILY ~ Rutaceae, the Citrus family which includes Bergamot, Buddha Hand, Citron, Clementine, Combava, Kaffir Lime, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Neroli of Bitter Orange flowers, Orange, Petitgrain, Pomelo, Tangerine, Yuzu, and more.
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ORIGINS ~ South Africa, USA, Iran, Brazil, and Israel. Grapefruit originated in China or maybe the West Indies. Disputed history shows “careful search has not found it a native of the Olde Worlde”5.
Most think of Grapefruit as a hybrid that originated in Barbados accidentally from Oranges and Pomelos, both of which were imported Asian fruits during the seventeenth century.
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ENDANGERED OR NOT ~ Not currently.
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GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF Grapefruit PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH ~ This is a small tree with dark, evergreen leaves and large, creamy white flowers and large, yellow, or pinkish fruits that ripen from December to March. Grapefruit has a thick rind and large sections. Its skin is called the flavedo and is thick, firm, and pleasantly fragrant; the pulp is white to red in color and acidic.
Grapefruit trees produce the best quality fruit on sandy, relatively fertile soils in a warm humid climate. Supplementary fertilization is necessary in practically all producing areas. The trees come into bearing early and should produce commercially profitable crops by the fourth to sixth year after they are planted in the orchard. Mature trees may produce remarkably large crops—585 to 675 kg (1,290 to 1,490 pounds) of fruit per tree. Grapefruit consists of flavedo (outer layer with essential oil glands), albedo (white inner rind) and oval-shaped meat.2
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PORTION OF PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS AND YIELDS ~ The fragrant oil is located deep within the flavedo of the thick peel. The Grapefruit does not produce large quantities of oil because of this thickness from the flavedo. Guenther maintains that 22 boxes of Grapefruit yield about 1 lb. of oil, and one box holds 85 lb. of fruit5. The fresh peel is cold-pressed and contains up to 90% limonene and a wax.
Yield – 0.5-1.0%
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GRAPEFRUIT ~ ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS OF EO OF GRAPEFRUIT
Color of EO
Almost colorless for white Grapefruit; yellow to red color for pink Grapefruit; and dark yellow red for ruby red Grapefruit
Clarity
Clear
Viscosity
Non-Viscous and like water
Taste
Bitter, sour, umami (tastes like the tart, bitter rind of a Grapefruit with the white, rough, ridged, and pebbly skin.)
Intensity of Odor1-10 with 1= lowest
4
Tenacity of Odor
4 – An important part of many perfumes as the volatile top note. Gives a fresh burst to the perfume and then fades into the heart, and finally disperses within the base note.
Grapefruit sensory characteristics of the cold-pressed scent
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______Language is important in recognizing smells. An important part of perfumery training is to develop, in common, an odor language based on olfactory standards. The possession of such an odor language increases the powers of discrimination. If you can name it, you own it.
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ODOR DESCRIPTION/ AROMA ASSESSMENT ~ GRAPEFRUIT OIL “The peel of (Citrus paradisi Macfaden) or Grapefruit oil is cold pressed. The fresh, fruity top-note is due to p-menth-1-en-8-thiol. This component is present only in very low amounts. Grapefruit oil is sesquiterpene rich, which is unusual in citrus oils. Nootkatone is mainly responsible for the odor of the Grapefruit and contributes to the bitter flavor of the juice. Linaloöl oxides, is in many essential oils, and constitute the second most important class of compounds. Also found in the essential oil is epoxycaryophyllene, first found in Verbena oil, possesses a pleasant woody, balsamic odor. “(Scent & Fragrance by Gunther Ohloff)3
PHYSIOCHEMICAL PROPERTIES ~ Solubility ~ The oil is incompletely soluble in 90% alcohol up to 10 vol. owing to the separation of its natural wax.5
Chemical Components ~ D-Limonene, Gamma-Terpinene, Nootketone, Cadinene, Neral, methyl anthranilate and Citronellal. Grapefruit mercaptan, a sulfur-containing terpene, is one of the substances which has a strong influence on the taste and odor of Grapefruit. Nootkatone, aka, nootketone, is a natural organic compound and is the most important and expensive aromatic of grapefruit. It is a sesquiterpene and a ketone. Nootketone was previously thought to be one of the main chemical components of the smell and flavor of grapefruits.
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GENERAL PROPERTIES of Grapefruit Oil
GRAPEFRUIT fruit and EOis for both IG=ingestion or IN=inhalation or AP=application. We eat Grapefruit as food and take it as a tonic juice for the gall bladder. The cold-pressed oil of pink Grapefruit is a tart, sweet, and warming while the white Grapefruit is tart, and cooling. We use these oils as an astringent externally for skin and hair de-greaser, and inhaled for refreshment, and as a spray or in the diffuser to disinfectant a room.
APPLICATION – The cold-pressed oil is astringent, antiseptic, depurative, and anti-infectious and is used to degrease oily skin or hair, as part of a tonic, cream, or mask, to use as a scent in skincare products, and as an important component in perfumery in the top note.
Do not use Grapefruit oil or any citrus oil in your bath as it will burn upon contact with your sensitive skin and lady parts. Remember essential oils float in water, and when you step into the tub, the floating oils come into contact to whatever parts of your skin they touch first.
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SKINCARE FORMULA
Grapefruit & Elemi Skin Cream for Oily Skin
I like to make a simple skin cream with a few simple ingredients. Start with 4 oz by volume of Coconut or other solid oil Add 1 oz (by volume) of Marula or Argan oil Add 5 drops Grapefruit Oil and 5 drops Elemi Oil Add a small scoop (1 T.) of Aloe Vera pulp (no peel) And blend with a hand blender. That’s it! Use once a day after cleansing. Keep refrigerated.
Grapefruit and Elemi Skin Cream
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Grapefruit Seed Extract – Grapefruit seed extract (GSE) or citrus seed extract is a product made from the seeds and pulp of grapefruit. This product considered to have health benefits may be a natural antibiotic, antiseptic, disinfectant, and preservative. It is used to promote the healing of almost any atypical skin condition. Apparently, this product DOES NOT WORK AS SOME CLAIM as a preservative. However, it can be added to mouthwash and mouth tonics.
“Grapefruit Extract (GSE) is made by first converting grapefruit seeds and pulp into a very acidic liquid. This liquid is loaded with polyphenolic compounds including quercetin, helperidin, and more. Some of these compounds, for example, are used industrially as antimicrobials but are toxic to animal life…” The suggestion is that for a preservative would be better if one used 10% alcohol of 95% neutral grain or grape spirits. (available from http://www.organicalcohol.com)
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INGESTION – The juice of Grapefruit is a popular food source especially for breakfast and is effective in controlling sugar metabolism and as a slimming aid. It is a tonic for the gall bladder, and it is digestive, antioxidant and depurative. Studies have shown the pink and red varieties of Grapefruit contain higher amounts of antioxidants than the yellow or white kind.
*If you take statins or heart medication, confer with your doctor before you eat Grapefruit or drink the juice. I suggest that if you take any medications, avoid eating or drinking Grapefruit juice, fruit, or products that contain GSE.
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PHYSICAL USES & HOW USED (IG or AP) – Externally, Grapefruit oil in a blend alleviates muscle fatigue and stiffness. I use it a facial toner for its astringency, or on acne, as it stimulates lifeless skin. Apply Grapefruit oil neat as a treatment for herpes, in various applications on the body as it aids in cellulite reduction, and fluid retention, and use it as a disinfectant.
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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ Add to your inhalation blends for uses as a tonic, restorative, and antidepressant.
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EMOTIONAL/ENERGETIC USE ~ Inhaled, Grapefruit oil may relieve hangovers, headaches, mental exhaustion, anxiety, and depression, and used externally or by inhalation in a blend for menstrual difficulties, such as PMS and menopause. The scent is very uplifting and antiseptic and makes for a great air freshener.
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Formula for Tattered Nerves.
Use equal amounts of Bergamot, Grapefruit (white or pink) and Lemon, about 30 drops of each in a 1-dram vial and to the final formula add 1 drop of Nutmeg. Succuss and apply to a hanky from which you will inhale as needed.
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RITUAL USE ~ Grapefruit along with other citrus is for the 3rd Chakra, the spleen area, it vibrates in the color yellow, and the complementary stone is citrine. It is uplifting and calming as well.
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YOGA PRACTICE ~ Tricia Cruz has a yoga practice and uses essential oils for various purpose. One of her blends called “Clean and Clear” contains Pink Grapefruit/Rosemary (Citrus paradisi/Salvia rosmarinus officinalis). She sprinkles this on her towel to improve focus and clarity in her practice.
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KEEPING QUALITIES OF CITRUS OILS ~ “Citrus oils kept in well-filled, well-stoppered, dark-colored bottles and stored in a cool, dark place retain their original delicate flavor for years, but access to air or light, especially in the presence of traces of water, easily spoils citrus oils.”5 They oxidize, get an acid character, and piney odor and viscosity and specific gravity increase.
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PERFUMERY & BLENDING WITH GRAPEFRUIT OIL ~
Blends Best ~ Grapefruit blends with many oils including Basil, especially the non-carvacrol types; all Citrus oils and citrus smelling oils such as Clary Sage but especially Bergamot and Lemon; spicey oils such as Black Pepper, Cardamom, Clove, Coriander, Frankincense, Ginger and others; conifer oils such as Cypress and some Junipers and especially true Cedar (Cedrus atlantica); grass oils such as Citronella, Palmarosa and Vetivert; flower oils such as Chamomile and Roman Chamomile, Lavender, Neroli, Jasmine, Ylang and Rose; and herbaceous oils such as Peppermint and Rosemary (verbenone type).
“Grapefruit essential oil is quite useful in Citrus compositions and for all modifications of citrus notes in perfumery. “It is used in the Top note in citrus and cologne blends with Bergamot to impart fresh non-green sharpness, body and tenacity.”3
White Grapefruit is a crisper scent than the pink or Ruby red Grapefruit.
Grapefruit oil courtesy of Prima Fleur Botanicals
BLENDING WITH CITRUS NOTES ~ In the perfumery business the citrus notes impart a fresh, sparkling note to any blend. They are usually not overpowering. They are in the blends up to 25% as the base for classic types of eau de cologne and other perfumes. Citrus oils harmonize with many other essential oils, and I use them in different concentrations in almost all scent blends and modern perfumes.
“In combination with Lavender oil, citrus oils are the base for English Lavender which is an 1826 creation. High concentrations of citrus oils are in Chanel No. 5 (1921). Also, of importance are the citrus oils in soda drinks like Coca-Cola and others.”3
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CITRUS DAY PERFUME
With a Grapefruit top note
Top note: 30 drops of a mixture of Grapefruit oil and Mandarin oil. If you use the white Grapefruit or the green Mandarin, your perfume will be brighter and cooler than if you use pink Grapefruit and red Mandarin.
Heart note: 20 drops of a mixture of Rose absolute and Orris root
Base note: 10 drops of Sandalwood oil and Ylang Extra
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Remember that there are 3 kinds of Grapefruit, 3 kinds of Mandarin, 20 kinds of Rose absolute, 4 kinds of Sandalwood. Depending on which you use will result in exponentially many different scents, all pleasant but all different.
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YOU will add your Citrus Day Perfume of 60 drops of scent blend to 180 drops of spirits (95%) of neutral grape, grain, or for a true scent experience of citrus, use Orange spirits.7. [www.organicalalcohol.com]
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Citrus Vinegar with white and pink Grapefruit peel ~ 1 peel of pink Grapefruit + 1 peel of white Grapefruit + 1 peel on Mandarin
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HERBAL USES OF GRAPEFRUIT PLANT – PEEL AND FRUIT
Citrus Vinegar – An Herbal-Home Remedy for Cleaning and Mold Removal.
I have been making this vinegar for housecleaning for over 30 years. I have written about it in my Herbal Studies Course, online and in articles. In 1990, I had to clean the smelly walls of a home where someone had lived for 30 years without repainting or cleaning. They had a septic system and rather than using toxic chemicals, I used only Citrus Grapefruit Vinegar with Rosemary Hydrosol. The walls came clean, the septic system was undamaged, and the place took on a fresh and clean odor.
TO MAKE: Purchase a gallon of the cheapest white vinegar (best to buy in glass). As you eat lemons, oranges and especially grapefruit, use only the peel (flavedo) and roll the peels up and put into the vinegar bottle. Your vinegar will get the added benefits of the antibacterial citrus peels as well as the clean citrus fragrance. It is good to start with the peel of one Grapefruit, one Orange and one Lemon – but anything will do. Try to remove as much albedo (white underside of peel) as you can. When the vinegar is all gone, the bottle will be full of peels, and you can just discard them in your compost pile and recycle the bottle. You can also add 16 oz of water to the now empty citrus/vinegar bottle and make a spray to clean small surfaces.
I use this Citrus vinegar to clean all surfaces, stoves, porcelain, wood floors, wood chopping tables, dusty woodwork, door knobs, etc. This will clean and kill mold in your bathroom, basement, attic, and other closed places. It will deodorize and kill any bad odor.
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You can also make a good cleanser and deodorizer by wiping the porcelain surfaces with baking soda and then adding the vinegar from your Citrus Vinegar bottle. You can keep drains clear by using baking soda and vinegar. Every two weeks pour 1-2 cups baking soda down all the drains and follow with 1 cup of plain white or citrus vinegar. Follow 2 hours later by pouring 2 quarts of boiling water down the drain. It will fizz, bubble, and keep the drains funk free and smelling good.
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HYDROSOL ~ I have not yet had the opportunity to experience a Grapefruit hydrosol.
PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol is distilled specifically for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components, lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using the dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.
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HISTORICAL USES ~ Antiseptic.
INTERESTING FACTS ~ Some histories suggest that Grapefruit “was introduced into Barbados West Indies from China by Captain Shaddock and the fruit was thereafter known as ‘Shaddock fruit’. In 1809 the seeds traveled with Spanish settlers to the United States. Grapefruit was in the United States commercially beginning in 1880. In many parts of the world the waste products of this and other citrus fruits are ground and used as animal fodder”1
Jeanne Rose’s Grapefruit Tomato Tales EO:
I made over 25 different aromatherapy kits over the last 35 years. One of these I called, “The Woman’s Kit” and it contained Grapefruit and Clary Sage. I used the Grapefruit/Clary Sage mix as follows: Inhaled is an adrenal stimulant, eased depression, to reduce hot flashes, to help the new mother relax. It was mildly intoxicating and with Geranium was a great inhalant for menopause symptoms, to ease nervousness, and to soothe PMS symptoms. This mixture was relaxing and euphoric and with Ylang-Ylang was an excellent inhaler and application for menstrual irregularities and for ‘grounding’.
Externally, this combination regenerates skin, reduces wrinkles and when you add Rosemary oil is applied to hair roots to stimulate growth. I used a drop or two in baths for health and relaxation, diluted or with Clary Sage hydrosol to spray on face for hot skin and during heat waves. In a massage blend it assisted in the labor process and seemed to strengthen the inner organs. I consider Grapefruit and Clary Sage to be very good for all menstrual disorders.
Internally, I occasionally used one drop in warm water as gargle for sore throat.
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ABSTRACT/SCIENTIFIC DATA ~ Nootkatone, a characteristic constituent of grapefruit, stimulates energy metabolism and prevents diet-induced obesity by activating AMPK AMP-activated protein kinase (AMPK) is a serine/threonine kinase that is implicated in the control of energy metabolism. — 2010 – physiology.org
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MEDICINAL IMPORTANCE OF GRAPEFRUIT JUICE ~ Grapefruit juice is consumed widely in today’s health conscious world as a protector against cardiovascular diseases and cancers. It has however, been found to be an inhibitor of the intestinal cytochrome P – 450 3A4 system, which is responsible for the first pass metabolism of many drugs. The P – glycoprotein pump, found in the brush border of the intestinal wall which transports many of these cytochrome P – 450 3A4 substrates, has also been implicated to be inhibited by grapefruit juice. By inhibiting these enzyme systems, grapefruit juice alters the pharmacokinetics of a variety of medications, leading to elevation of their serum concentrations.4
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KEY USE ~ Antiseptic, skin care and tonic for the gall bladder.
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RESOURCES ~ Many thanks to PrimaFleur.com for the lovely Grapefruit oils they supplied for my organoleptic studies.
Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose. 1992 Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press. Oxford English Dictionary, 2nd ed., Oxford University Press, 2000 Rose, Jeanne: 375 ESSENTIAL OILS AND HYDROSOLS; Frog, Ltd. 1999 Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, California: Staff of L.H. Baily Hortorium, Hortus Third: A Concise Dictionary of Plants. Macmillan Publishing Co., New York, 1976.
General Resources
• Williams, David G.: THE CHEMISTRY OF ESSENTIAL OILS: Micelle Press. 1996. • Another Fresh Start – Lunar New Year. Leaflet, Newsletter of the Strybing Arboretum. Winter 2002, Volume 26, No. 1.
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Safety Precautions ~ “A phototoxic reaction typically shows up as an exaggerated sunburn, usually occurring within 24 hours of sun exposure: as stated by the Skin Cancer Foundation. The primary essential oil culprits are typically cold-pressed citrus oils: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime, Orange, Wild Orange, and Tangerine.
If you take statins or heart medications do not eat or drink Grapefruit unless you discuss this with your medical doctor.
Calendula officinalisis a simple garden plant with a hundred healing uses as an antiseptic and anti-inflammatory. The CO2 is also used for the treatment of skin disorders and pain as a bactericide, antiseptic, and anti-inflammatory.
Jeanne Rose ~ circa 1972 – 2023
COMMON NAME/LATIN BINOMIAL ~ Calendula, Calendula officinalis
Kingdom is Plantae (includes all the plants; eukaryotic, multicellular, and autotrophic organisms.) Order is Asterales (cosmopolitan herbaceous species known for flowers with fused petals) Family is Asteraceae (unique because of their composite flowers; daisies, asters, chamomile, etc.) Tribe is Calenduleae (this group varies from herbs to shrubs with showy flower heads) Genus is Calendula – referring to the first day of the month or the long growing period, and holds about 15-20 species of annual and perennial herbaceous plants. species is C. officinalis – originally meaning used in cooking, medicine, and herbalism.
The language of flowers – Giving a gift of the pot Marigold signifies “my thoughts are with you”.
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OTHER COMMON NAME/NAMING INFORMATION ~ Pot Marigold, Marigold, or Mary’s gold.
Family ~ Asteraceae and this family also include aster, daisy, composite or sunflower family, Lettuce, echinacea, Chrysanthemum, fleabane, zinnia, and so many more.
Calendula, from the Latin calendae (the first day of the month), refers to the long flowering period of this annual herb.2.
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COUNTRIES OF ORIGINS ~ This plant is probably native to the southern part of Europe but is now naturalized in many temperate climates and available in many countries. Some sites say it is native to Asia and to other places. It is grown for its herbal uses in many states across the United States. Various varieties are grown for the beauty of the flowers, but often these varieties do not have the same medicinal value or carry the resin that the originating species has.
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ENDANGERED OR NOT ~ Of least concern.
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GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH ~ Most species of Asteraceae are annual, biennial, or perennial herbaceous plants; and there are also members of this family that are shrubs, vines, and trees; all of which, if you call yourself an herbalist are >HERBS< because you use all of these plants in herbalism.
_______Calendula grows well in full sun in poor to moderate soil. When I used to teach at the world-renowned wellness center and spa, Rancho La Puerta, near Tecate, Mexico, the gardens were quite lush, and Calendula and other sun-loving plants grew abundantly. These are plants with wonderful, sticky, resinous orange or yellow flowers. The resin comes from near the green base of the flower.
_______ If you grow it, please choose the authentic Calendula officinalis and not any of its varietal forms.
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PORTION OF PLANT USED FOR EXTRACTION, EXTRACTION METHODS; DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, AND YIELDS ~ The flowers are harvested and used, via carbon dioxide extract, macerated in oil, for the hydrosol; all to provide a base ingredient for skincare, therapeutics, or food. The top third of the plant, including flowers, are harvested herbally for making infused or macerated Calendula oil, for foods, and for garnishes.
YIELD – The CO2 yield from the flowers is dependent on extraction pressure and flow rate and is from .56% up to 4.2%.
>It is estimated that 1 acre of Calendula could keep a crew of three to four people busy every day for three or four months, with dry flower yields of 400 to 600 lbs./acre.< There are about 250 flower heads of Calendula per pound.
PARTS OF CALENDULA USED. The flowers and leaves are used for distillation and only the flowers for infused oil. Calendula Leaves –The leaves can be alternate, opposite, or whorled. They may be simple but are often deeply lobed or otherwise incised, often conduplicate or revolute. The margins can be entire, or lobed, or toothed. Gather these in dry weather, in the morning, before the sun is high but after the dew has dried — for tea or for oil maceration. The whole flower can also be dried for tea.
Calendula Flowers – The flowers are picked in the morning when they are covered and sticky with the resin and then used, and if they will be dried, it needs to be done quickly in the shade, in a good current of warm air. They can be hung in mesh bags from tree limbs or spread out on sheets of paper without touching each other. If they are dried, and the flowers have been touching, they will become discolored. Another method of drying is to spread them on screens in a warm, dry attic or over a stairway. This has been described extensively in The Herbal Studies Course, chapters 31 and 33. The flowers and leaves are used for distillation and only the flowers for infused oil.
Calendula resin: When you pick Calendula, your fingers should be sticky from the resinous bracts, which form the green base of the flower head. The species Calendula officinalis resina strain was developed by medicinal herb pioneer Mark Wheeler at Pacific Botanicals in his quest for the highest resin content and specifically to increase this therapeutic substance1. This resin is an important part of Calendula’s healing and is a good indicator of strength. If you are buying Calendula, make sure you purchase the brightest yellow or orange flowers, which is a good barometer of its freshness and medicinal quality. If picking fresh flowers, the stickier (with resin), the better. The leaves and the stems very often contain secretory canals with resin or latex. This is particularly common among the Cichorioideae, a sub-family of the Asteraceae).
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CALENDULA CHEMISTRY ~ The German herbal medicine manufacturer, Dr. Theiss, registered ‘Rinathei’ in 1998 for its own exclusive production use. This variety is claimed to be rich in the faradiol triterpenoids believed to be most responsible for Calendula’s anti-inflammatory activity. Also readily available is a dwarf ornamental variety, ‘Calypso Orange,’ rich in faradiols, having the highest content of 10 cultivars tested, and often a third more than ‘Erfurter Orangefarbi.’ The petals and pollen contain triterpenoid esters (an anti-inflammatory) and the carotenoids flavoxanthin and auroxanthin (antioxidants and the source of the yellow-orange coloration). The leaves and stems contain other carotenoids, mostly lutein (80%), zeaxanthin (5%), and beta-carotene. This plant extract is also widely used by cosmetic makers in their products due to the presence of compounds such as saponins, resins, and essential oils.
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CALENDULA SCENT AND ORGANOLEPTICS ~ Calendula total extract is a rich and thick, almost solid CO2 extract of Calendula flowers. It is dark brown, thick, and viscous, with a low intensity of scent that is floral, earthy, vegetative, and herbaceous. This extract must be diluted for use, has a good tenacity in a carrier oil, and/or mixed with other scents in a blend for healing. It is used in many skincare products as an anti-inflammatory.
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GENERAL PROPERTIES of CALENDULA Flowers and CO2
CALENDULA OFFICINALIS CO2 EXTRACT is used for the beneficial treatment of skin disorders and pain and as a bactericide, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory. The petals and pollen contain triterpenoid esters (an anti-inflammatory) and the carotenoids flavoxanthin and auroxanthin (antioxidants and the source of the yellow-orange coloration). The leaves and stems contain other carotenoids, mostly lutein (80%), and zeaxanthin (5%), and beta-carotene. Plant extracts are also widely used by cosmetics, presumably due to the presence of compounds such as saponins, resins, and essential oils.
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APPLICATION/ SKINCARE ~ Calendula officinalis CO2 is used for the treatment of skin disorders and pain, and as a bactericide, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory. The creams that are made with the carbon dioxide product are fragrant, hydrating for the face and body, and have a pleasant herbal odor.
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CALENDULA for the Skin – Jeanne Rose favorite ~ Calendula CO2 and infused oil is a wonderful product to nourish dry skin. It also makes good carrier oil used in aromatherapy massage. To make the infused product, use The Aromatherapy Book and refer to pages 249-250. Calendula-infused oil is a wonderful product to have on hand. I do not recommend sun infusion, as letting something sit in the sun is an excellent way to grow bacteria. Sun sitting was very useful in hot, dry climates when one did not want to use a stove. See directions below.
Calendula and Comfrey herbs have skin-softening properties. They can be used in a facial sauna or to make herbal or floral waters. Comfrey also reduces redness and soothes irritated skin. Add water from making your breakfast oatmeal for additional skin conditioning.
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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ EMOTIONAL/ENERGETIC USE ~ The mystery of aromatherapy —Get to know the elusive essence and herb that is able to create such a variety of emotional and physical changes.
This is a relaxing earthy application, and Calendula is used in ceremony for remembrance along with Rosemary, in death and dying ceremony, and also in spell work for happiness and harmony. Its bright orange color is evocative of the sun and all that the sun is used for.
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BLENDING & PERFUMERY ~ Calendula total, is a CO2 extract, suitable for skincare and skin issues. I do not used it in perfumery as I consider its value to be in therapeutics, cosmetics, lotions, and creams. This extract will blend well with almost all vegetable oils.
Use the Calendula infused oil (Olive oil) for nourishing dry skin in a full body massage.
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CALENDULA HYDROSOL ~ I prefer the Calendula infusion and oil maceration to EO and hydrosol as I believe that wasting 10-30 lbs. of flowers for 3 gallons of hydrosol is an ecological waste and destruction of good flowers, not to mention the environmental waste of gallons of valuable water in the condensation part of the distillation. The hydrosol is made from fresh flowers and is being used in new ways to combat old problems.
“I know that some will disagree with me on this subject, but I strongly feel that distilling Calendula flowers is a waste of botanical product.Calendula Hydrosol is obtained from freshly picked Calendula flowers and distilled in a copper still. It produces a green and vegetative smelling hydrosol. It seems a waste of good Calendula flowers. My suggestion is to not distill it but to infuse the fresh flowers in good-quality Olive Oil for an infused oil. This can be used in all skin care lotions. It works to smooth and soothe the skin, to heal small eruptions or sores. It makes a perfect infused oil.
When you distill the Calendula, you will use up to 30 POUNDS of flowers (250 flowers per pound or 7500 flowers) to make ONLY 3 Gallons of hydrosol + all the water going through the condenser. So yes, there are some water-soluble compounds, but we can use the flowers as a tea or compress. With the Calendula infused oil, you use 1 lb. of resin-covered flowers to 1 gallon of good Olive oil. When you distill for hydrosol, you have to also think of the environmental impact of your work and the value of the water used. Sometimes an herbal product is better to use than a distilled product.”
PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil, or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.
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fresh Calendula flower
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HERBAL USE OF CALENDULA FLOWERS
~ Definitions always seem to be a problem to sort out by people and they often vary by discipline. People are prone to invent their own definitions based on inadequate knowledge or poor teachers. Please folks, use a dictionary if you do not know what an herbal term means.
_____Herbalists infuse (soak flowers and leaves) or decoct (boil roots and barks), in water to make medicinal teas. So, with teas, infusion = hot or room temp. liquid, no applied heat; decoction = applied and sustained heat.
•An infusion starts with hot water, and the heat is turned off or no heat is applied once the plant material is added – it just sits and steeps covered, often until cool. Cold infusions are also an option for some things – no heat is applied but it takes more time.
•Decoctions simmer for 5-60 min. depending on the density of the material. Roots and barks taking more time than twigs and seeds.
•We macerate in alcohol to create tinctures; we also percolate — both maceration and percolation can be called tincturing. This is also called extracting by some.
Macerationis a word that confuses people. I don’t know why humans seem to have forgotten how to use a dictionary. Maceration is a specialized soaking in oil, water, fat, or a long soaking infusion in either alcohol or fat or oil. Macerate, Use a clean metal or porcelain pan; for perfumery use the type of flowers/plants required for the odor wanted and that are carefully picked (fresh). And removed and exchanged in a short time. Therapeutic maceration and fragrant maceration are two different processes.
For a Maceration – place in the warm alcohol or liquid fat or add to the fat or alcohol and allow to remain from minutes to hours; and for fragrant maceration – exchange the flowers every 24 hours, many times, until the menstruum has the scent. It may take up to 20 exchanges. Fat/oil has a particular affinity or attraction for the scent (fragrance) of flowers, and thus, as it were, draws it out of them and becomes itself, by their aid, highly perfumed. For therapeutic maceration, soak the plant in the warmed oil or fat for hours until the oil or fat has taken on the color and properties of the plant.
Alcohol has an affinity for the plant’s therapeutic values. And is often called a tincture when completed.
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HERBAL TREATMENTS WITH CALENDULA
Healing Skin – Simply put — using a compress or infusion of the following herbs, either singly or in a combination, will be healing Calendula, Chamomile, or Comfrey.
There are many herbs that would be useful and helpful to treat torn, burn, or tattooed skin. I have written two skin care books that list many treatments. Both the Herbal Body Book and Kitchen Cosmetics would have useful information. http://www.jeannerose.net/books.html
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PROPERTIES AND USES OF HERBAL TREATMENTS ~ Pot marigold florets are edible. They are used to add flavor when Saffron is not available, and color to salads, added to smaller plates as a garnish. The leaves are edible but not very tasty. Leaves have a history as a leafy green vegetable and both leaves and flower are used to make tea.
The flowers also called Marigold are chiefly used as a local remedy. They have a stimulating action and are diaphoretic (makes you sweat) when taken as a warm tea. Given internally, it encourages a natural internal action and prevents suppuration (pus formation as in an abscess or a vesicle and the discharge of pus). The usual recipe for herbal infusion is of 1-ounce dried herb to a pint of boiling water, steep for 10-20 minutes and take internally, in doses of one tablespoonful, every hour; and used externally as a local application for sores, pus’y wounds, pimples or irritation. It is useful as an internal tea in chronic ulcer, varicose veins, etc. This infusion was formerly considered to have much value as an aperient (mild laxative) and intestinal cleanser in obstructions in the digestive system and for jaundice.
Fresh Marigold flower is a useful remedy for the pain and swelling caused by the sting of a wasp or bee when rubbed on the affected area.
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•Calendula Flowers were used in ancient cultures such as Middle Easter, Green and Roman, and as a medicinal herb as well. The flowers are used to dye cosmetics, fabrics, and foods. They are an unforgettable addition or sole ingredients in an infused oil for their therapeutic value on the skin. An infusion of the freshly gathered flowers, drunk hot is useful in summer fevers and cold, as it gently promotes perspiration – a decoction of the flowers has been used to treat smallpox and measles. Marigold flowers are very useful for children’s ailments.
The expressed juice of the flower or the dried powdered flowers, snuffed up the nose triggers sneezing and a discharge of mucous from the head. Years ago, when I tried to express the juice of fresh flowers, I used a Champion juicer, got only a few drops of juice but used this, diluted by half with water, as nose drops for a client who had a hole in the septum.
•Calendula leaves can also be made into a poultice that will help scratches and shallow cuts to heal faster, and to help prevent infection. A strained mild infusion has also been used in eye drops. The leaves when chewed at first taste gummy and sweet followed by a strong penetrating salty taste.
•Calendula flowers and leaves expressed juice, which contains the most of this pungent matter, especially with Rose petals has been given in cases of costiveness (retained feces), where it acts as an aperient and proved very useful for this problem. Since it is gentle, it can be used with children and in small doses for your pets. These Calendula leaves and flowers can be eaten as a salad and also been considered a medicinal culinary herb, useful in skin diseases and swollen lymph nodes of children.
Some of the stronger scented Calendula with lots of resin is recommended to remove warts.
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Sometimes an herbal product is a better choice of a product to use than a distilled product.
CALENDULA INFUSED OIL is a wonderful product to nourish dry skin. It also makes good carrier oil used in aromatherapy massage. To make this product, use The Aromatherapy Book and refer to pages 249-250.or the Aromatherapy Studies Course and read up on it. Calendula Infused Oil is a wonderful product to always have on hand.
If you want your blend/infusion to have a strong good scent or to boost the olfactory powers of a scent, make sure you pick the plants when they are ready. When they are ready means at the time when their scent is the best. For instance, Jasmine at night, Tuberose early in the morning or at dark, Chamomile types in the early morning, Roses, and Calendula when the dew is dried but before the sun is high.
The best time to start infusions or blends is in the New Moon/First Quarter in a Fire sign (Aries/Leo/Sagittarius) and when the days are not humid. If that is not possible, check your moon lore in other sources, such as the Llewellyn book on Moon signs that can be used for offline reference. I am going to go back to my herbal and gardening, and perfumery basics of gardening, tincturing, infusing, weeding, blending, etc., by incorporating the moon lore, and working by the sign of the moon. There are online websites that have the phases and astrological signs.
I am keeping my book, Herbs & Things, open in my reading room because I want to be able to reference the formula and what I had to say then. I already visit various moon lore and weather sites on the Internet for basic charts. When I make Calendula Infused Oil or Bruise Juice, I pick and start work on a waxing to full moon when the herbs are at their fullest. Let it drain and bottle on a waning moon. For great moon information, see — any weather or U.S. Navy site or go to MoonMenu for a quick moon update.
I do not recommend sun infusion ~ I AM NOT a proponent of letting something sit in oil for 4-6 weeks in the sun or on a windowsill or when it is hot and humid during the day and cooler at night, as this is a perfect way to create spoilage. I use the hot maceration method and get my perfect brightly-colored, clean, and clear, Calendula oil and perfect St. Johnswort Oil in about 2-3 days.
Use 1 lb. of fresh flowers to 1 gallon of organically grown Olive oil.
Essentially, you have to get freshly picked flowers when they are ready and covered in resin; pick them in the morning when the dew is dry but the sun not yet high and infuse and macerate them slowly over a series of days in organically-grown Olive oil, heating gently but not boiling, cooling, heating, and cooling until the flowers have exuded (sweated) their liquid moisture. Keep heating and cooling until the pot lid no longer collects the condensation, pouring off the condensate into a glass and drying the inside of the lid. During hot weather, this might be done in a day, but here in San Francisco, it takes about 3 days. Cool, and allow the oil to drain into a clean container.
Don’t be lazy and choose to do this therapeutic oil with dried-out flowers. Yes, I know most other herbalists have taught you that dried is the way to go. It is a bit harder to do with clean, freshly picked flowers, but the resultant oil will be so much more healing and healthful.
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Weigh or count out your flowers. You will need about 1 lb. or 250 flower heads + 1 gallon of Olive oil for about 120 ounces of finished infused oil.
2. Add the flowers and the oil together in a proper porcelain or stainless steel pot. Bring to a soft boil, and sweat off the excess water, removing the lid and pouring off the condensate into a separate container. Turn off the heat to allow the flowers to cool, and then repeat this process several times. Depending upon the humidity of the day, this may take at least 3-5 times bringing to a boil, turning off the heat, allowing the pot to cool, taking off the condensate from the lid, and then repeating the process. Repeat over and over again until no more fluid condenses on the inside of the lid … BUT do not let the contents burn.
3. When pouring off the condensate, remember to not pour it back into the oil but into a separate container. This liquid can be considered a perfect hydrosol of Calendula as it is the natural exudate from the flowers. Collect it and then use it as a facial tonic within the next three days.
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4. After the oil has taken on the deep orange color of the flowers (up to 2 days of warm maceration or of heating and cooling), let it cool enough to pour into a glass jar. Use a funnel lined with fine silk cloth or a mesh bag and pour the oil through the bag into the jar. This will collect any stray bits of plant material. If you use silk, it also will not drip off the ends as other fabrics can do. It is not necessary to use a filter or filter paper as that just adds another dimension to the product and does not remove any bacteria or yeast. If you have made the oil correctly, it will be yeast and mold-free for up to a year, and the filter paper doesn’t filter; it only makes a mess.
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5. Now, you will have to be patient and let the finished Calendula Infused Oil sit for a day or two and settle quietly on its own while it totally cools. Any liquid that may be left will drop to the bottom of the jar and the oil can be decanted into a clean container. If the oil is cloudy, however, decant it, and you will have to heat it gently one more time to remove the fluid. My Calendula Infused oil is golden yellow-orange in color and clear and will stay this way.
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6. At this point, pour your oil into sterile quart or 8-oz. bottles. Label your product with its name, contents, the size of the container, and your name or phone number or website. Store them in a basement or wine cellar at about 45-55°. They will keep until you use or sell them. •§•
CONDENSED USES – OF CALENDULA FLOWERS
CALENDULA INFUSED OIL MEDICINAL ACTION AND USES ~ Used externally as a local application for sores, pus-filled wounds, pimples, or irritation. A lotion made from the infused oil, plus flower wax (and maybe the addition of a healing essential oil), is most useful for sprains and wounds. If you have a hydrosol distilled from these flowers, this is good for inflamed and sore eyes; use it (but only used if kept sterile).
INGREDIENTS of Calendula infused (Olive) oil. Calendula flowers and Olive Oil. This is a wonderful product to nourish dry skin. Olive oil by itself contains the phytonutrient oleocanthal, which mimics the effect of ibuprofen in reducing inflammation in the body, and olive oil components are squalene and lignans and are being studied for their possible effects as a cancer treatment.
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USEs ~ Used for dry or sensitive skin, baby care, and also good carrier oil used in aromatherapy massage. Essentially, you have to get freshly picked flowers, infuse and macerate in olive oil, heat gently, and cool several times, removing all condensate that collects on the lid. Then allow the oil to drain into a clean, sterile container. Only the common variety with a deep orange color and sticky resin is of medicinal value. The yellow flower can also be used, but it does not make as deeply colored infused oil, and it seems of ‘lesser’ strength. Calendula Infused Oil is a wonderful product to have on hand.
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CALENDULA LOTION/CREAM ½ cup Calendula-infused oil 1 cup Calendula hydrosol ½ oz beeswax [you can also use a floral wax] 10 drops EO [healing oils such as Thyme linalool, Rosemary verbenone, or ?]
Melt beeswax in the infused oil- use a double boiler or the low setting on your oven. Make sure it is
melted and thoroughly mixed. Pour hydrosol into a clean/sterile blender; the hydrosol must cover the blades.
Wait for the infused oil to cool just enough to start a “skin” If it is too hot, it will not mix properly. Start on the low setting of your blender and slowly add the oil to your hydrosol, turning up the speed as it bogs down. When all infused oil is added, quickly add the EO. Do not over-blend. Put in clean, sterile jars, label, and refrigerate.
–Ann Harman formula–
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Medicinal Action and Uses. Calendula-infused oil made from fresh flowers and organic Olive oil is a wonderful product to nourish dry skin. It also makes good carrier oil used in blends, lotions, and massage.
