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CITRUS CITRUS

January 6, 2024January 7, 2024 / Jeanne Rose / Leave a comment

CITRUS CITRUS

Citruses are favorite fruit trees, and their essential oils perform in many formulas, therapeutics, and blends — they are widely grown and healing to mind and body. when inhaled, can be calming but not exhausting, and in skin care or by external application, the products have antiseptic properties.

Citrus

Antique postcard

CITRUS, Citrus & ODD CITRUS ~ Plant and the Essential Oils
Written and Collected by Jeanne Rose – January 2023

INTRODUCTION ~ There are many types of citrus that are grown all over the world. Many are very familiar, and during this past year, since January 2022, I have covered many citrus plants (Bergamot, Clementine, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin/Tangerine, Neroli, Orange, Petitgrain, and Yuzu); I have missed others such as Pomelo from Vietnam, Buddha Hand, Lemonade tree, Kumquat, and probably others. These latter do not have a strong presence in the essential oil industry. But it is time to give them a paragraph or two.

Here are the links to the ten articles: Jeannerose-blog.com and the posts are

Bergamot,
Clementine,
Grapefruit,
Lemon,
Lime,
Mandarin/Tangerine,
Neroli and Bitter Orange,
Orange,
Petitgrain, and
Yuzu.

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CITRUS FAMILY ~ RUTACEAE

The citrus is in the family Rutaceae, commonly known as the rue or citrus family of flowering plants. Species of the family generally have flowers that divide into four or five parts, usually with strong scents. They range in form and size from herbs to shrubs and large trees.

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CITRUS FAMILY TIES ~ The parents of each of the types of citrus can be very confusing, and if you want to have a fine time scrambling your brains look at the incestuous crosses, backcrossing, mutations, aberrations, speciation events, hybrids, genetic mixings, varieties, groups or outgroups, rootstock changes and terroir effects of the many Citrus types to understand the various citrus fruits, we have now.

For example, Bergamot parentage is 3rd generation from the original citrus species with Lemon and Bitter Orange as the male and female parents, but each of those is also 2nd generation. The Grapefruit group of citrus originates from a back cross of C. paradisi with a female of C. maxima (Pomelo) and a more up-to-date Latin binomial is Citrus x aurantium. The parents of the ‘Mexican Lime are C. micrantha and C. medical, and then the Mexican Lime crossed with Lemon gives the ‘Tahiti’ Lime (C. x latifolia). Neroli, Citrus x aurantium L, also called C. amara, C. aurantium ssp. Amara. It Is a cross between Citron and of C. reticulata (Mandarin) + C. maxima (Pomelo) as the female parent. Mandarin can be called Citrus reticulata var. mandarin, and Tangerine can be called Citrus reticulata var. tangerina. Mandarin has also been called var. deliciosa, and of course, it has other names as well.

The ‘x’ in the middle of any Latin binomial simply means that the plant is a cross, probably infertile as well, and in the case of ‘Bitter Orange’, several types of Citrus were crossed to obtain this plant. There are many backcrosses in this group of Bitter Orange/Neroli.

There is a naming problem in citrus, and it is complicated by the number of edible citrus that are recognized plus the many crosses, back-crosses, rootstock clones, hybrids, species, subspecies and varieties. “The taxonomy of the citrus fruits is complicated by hybridity and apomixis (asexual reproduction in plants), with many stable hybrid lines being accorded species status, so that the number of edible species recognized in the genus Citrus L. … varies from 1 to 162”.¹Anywhere from 12 up to 162 different ones are accorded subspecies or varietal names.

Some Citrus Parentage

Citrus Family Ties ~ https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Citrus_hybrids.svg
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CITRUS COUNTRIES OF ORIGINS AND HISTORY ~ There is a wide range of studies of where and how the diverse group of Citrus developed or are indigenous. They are now naturalized worldwide. For instance, Guenther mentions that Lime is probably a native of the East Indian Archipelago and then brought to the Asiatic mainland and on to tropical and subtropical regions of the world. Lime was brought to Europe by the Arabs. Citron, with a primary lineage, was called ‘the fruit of Persia’, and in 327 BC, Alexander the Great defeated this area, and the Greeks found Citron there under cultivation. For more extensive information on the country of origin of citrus, read volume 3 of The Essential Oils by Guenther OR “Citrus edited by Giovanni Dugo and Angelo Giacomo, 2002”.

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CITRUS ENDANGERED OR NOT ~ There are so many kinds of citrus in so many parts of the world that at this time, the citrus fruits, juices, cold-pressed peel oil, and EO are not endangered.
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CITRUS GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT HABITAT AND GROWTH ~ Citrus is grown in tropical and subtropical areas, including various southern areas in the southern USA. They are found in sunny, warm areas throughout the world. The tree is a small evergreen tree, somewhat cold-hardy and tolerant of drought.

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CITRUS. Portion of plant used in distillation, how distilled, extraction methods, and yields ~ The leaf, flower, and peel of various citrus are either cold-pressed (CP) or steam-distilled (SD), depending on the type of scent you wish. Lime peel and other citrus peels are not phototoxic when SD-Steam Distilled but are phototoxic when CP-Cold-Pressed. Yields are listed in the original articles on this blog.

CITRUS CHEMISTRY ~ Here is probably where you want to review volume III of Guenther’s The Essential Oils because here is where you will find 359 pages discussing each of the citrus oils and the equipment used to cold-press or steam-distill them as well as their production, and various areas where these citrus oils are grown and individual articles on chemistry and background.o

THE STORY OF LIMONENE ~ Chemical Components ~ Limonene

Limonene Story was edited by Hubert Marceau, who is at http://www.phytochemia.com

“Limonene, a compound of the terpene family, is present in the distilled essential oil and in the cold-pressed oil of citrus peel [NOTE: if you are talking about the seed oils, that is something else.] But limonene is present in the cold pressed oil from the rind and not in the distilled essential oil.”

There are two isomers of limonene. Each has at least 30 different names. They are most easily identified by the R or S type. 4(R)-limonene ) (+)-Limonene) and 4(S)-limonene. Alternative prefixes to label optical isomers include ‘ d ’ and ‘l’, and more commonly, the symbols + and – are used.

“The limonene structure has a chiral center, and thus it can be found in nature as one of the two enantiomers mentioned above, the (R)- and (S)-limonene. The R isomer has the characteristic sweet smell of oranges while the S isomer has a more smell like a piney turpentine.”

D-limonene ((+)-limonene), which is the (R)-enantiomer d-limonene is (+)-Limonene and D-LIMONENE is a colorless, clear, mobile liquid with a pleasantly sweet odor as in mandarin & orange. There is the L-LIMONENE, (-)-Limonene, S)-(−)-Limonene or sinistral or left enantiomer. Lime and lemon are (S)- smells like the sour of lemons.

Limonene

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This work is sponsored and supported by Prima Fleur Botanicals.

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CITRUS VARIETIES NOT YET DISCUSSED

BUDDHA HAND CITRUS ~ C. medica var. sarcodactylus. The fingered Buddha’s hand is a bizarre-looking citrus, an elongated fruit about 6 inches long with many vertical indentations on the peel that make this yellow-colored fruit look like fingers on a hand. It has a thick peel used to flavor distillates and liquors, or the peel is candied and used in cooking and in various baked goods. It is wonderful infused in vodka to make a delicious base for a cocktail. This citrus can also be chopped and infused in neutral grape or orange spirits (https://organicalcohol.com/) and used as a citrus fixative in perfumery or in citrus accords or as a diluent for fine perfumes. The fruit is also used fresh or dried in clothing closets to fragrance clothing or stored items. (if used fresh it must be removed after a week or two or it will mold). This fruit is mostly peel and is candied and eaten or used to flavor vodka and other high alcohol beverages.

It is an ornamental tree in the garden, the fruit contains no pulp and no juice, and the zest is used in desserts, or candied as a sweet. Possession of a fruit or a tree “is believed to bring good health and to symbolize wealth. The Chinese character for “hand” (shou) sounds like that for “longevity,” and so the two are associated. In resembling the classic prayer position of Buddha’s hand, the long fruit fingers connote Buddhism.”.

I like to use the ‘infused in orange spirits’ as my fixative in a
CITRUS PERFUME.
30 drops of Bergamot and 30 drops of green Mandarin
30 drops of Rose absolute
30 drops Sandalwood oil and 10 drops Ylang Extra
Mix the above together and succuss. Add more of the notes you wish to enhance.
Succuss again.
Add Orange spirits or citrus infused orange spirits about 200 drops. Succuss.
Age 2 weeks before you decide if it is perfect or not.

Buddha hand citrus at the Farmers Market SF by Jeanne Rose

Buddha Hand Citrus – June 2019

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CITRON or ETROG ~ Citrus medica, one of the five pure citrus species, a male parent with female Bitter Orange to produce the Lemon, is also called ‘Etrog,’ or cedrat, and used on certain Jewish holidays. There are also specific names based on their various shapes. An etrog is a citron that looks mostly like a misshapen lemon but smells delicious; it is a fragrant citrus fruit that consists of a dry pulp and only a small quantity of juice. The branches and fruit are waved each day on Sukkot, except on Shabbat, in a specific manner for a variety of reasons. I do not know much about the Citron except that it is important on Jewish holidays, and based on ancient studies, the citron was used mainly for medicinal purposes. It was greatly used to fight seasickness, intestinal problems, pulmonary illnesses, and other illnesses.
I use the Citron by taking the most fragrant part of the outer peel (flavedo or exocarp) and removing any unscented part of the albedo (white part), place in a jar, and cover with 95% neutral Grape or Orange spirits. I imagine if you use the 95% neutral orange spirits, it will have a stronger odor. After a few weeks, I strain out the alcohol and either add more peel or just label the container and use it as part of the diluent of a perfume

Etrog photo by Jeanne Rose March 2019

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KUMQUAT ~ Citrus japonica. This is a small fruit-bearing tree with a small large olive-shaped fruit that can be eaten when ripe, peel and all. They are native to southern Asia and were introduced to Europe about 1846 by Robert Fortune. The originally given Latin name was Fortunella japonica. I am not familiar with the essential oil, but Wikipedia says, “The essential oil of the kumquat peel contains much of the aroma of the fruit and is composed principally of limonene, which makes up around 93% of the total.Besides limonene and alpha-pinene (0.34%), both of which are considered monoterpenes, the oil is unusually rich (0.38% total) in sesquiterpenes such as a-bergamotene (0.21%), caryophyllene 0.18%), (bergamotene α-humulene (0.07%) and α-muurolene (0.06%), and these contribute to the spicy and woody flavor of the fruit.”

Kumquats – June 2019

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LEMONADE TREE ~ The correct name is Citrus x limon unless it is a Mandarin or tangerine, and then it would be Citrus reticulata. Of course, it also could be (Citrus limon x reticulata), and this is a cross between a lemon tree and a mandarin tree that was developed in Australia but was first found in New Zealand in the 1980s. The fruit is sweet, like a Mandarin, but with a citrusy lemon bite like a Lemon. You can pick and eat the fruit off the tree like an Orange.

Lemonade Tree fruit-August 2019 – Photo courtesy of Cheryl Brighton Smith
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LIMETTA ~ Citrus limetta, alternatively considered to be a cultivar of Citrus limon, C. limon ‘Limetta’, is a species of citrus, commonly known as mousambi, musambi, sweet lime, sweet lemon, and sweet limetta, it is a member of the sweet lemons.⁵ It is a cross between the citron and a bitter Orange. In France, this variety is known as ‘a Mamelon’, which describes the nipple shape of the end of the fruit. The juice and peel are both used. A sweet lemon is not an oxymoron. Neither is it a new fancy hybrid. Persian limu shirin, Citrus limetta, is one of the oldest cultivated varieties of lemons, and it tastes sweet like honey, with no hint of acidity. “The first time I bit into a slice was a shock because I was prepared for tartness, and instead, my mouth was filled with sweetness. Even more beautiful was the scent of the peel that lingered on my fingers. It also smelled like no lemon I had tried before.”

This is a lovely quote from January 28, 2019, by Victoria, “…The best way to enjoy sweet lemons is to make a glass of juice and drink it over ice. No sugar or any other flavorings are needed. The juice has the interesting property of turning pleasantly bitter as it oxidizes, becoming reminiscent of sweetened grapefruit juice. In France, this variety is known as ‘a Mamelon’, which aptly describes the shape of the end of the fruit. Juice & peel used ….” —January 28,2019, Essays on Flavor and Fragrance, Food & Fragrance, Perfume 101.

Limetta

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POMELO ~ Citrus maxima or pamplemousse. This is another large original form of citrus that is eaten and in Vietnam, the peel is steam-distilled for the oil. When I wrote a blog post on Grapefruit, I only briefly mentioned the Pomelo. I was written to by (Yen Ta), and she mentioned that I had not said much about Pomelo. I knew of it and had seen the fruit in the market but had never experienced the oil. In August, I received this bottle of steam-distilled EO from Vietnam via Yen Ta and am now able to discuss it. Pomelo peel SD is colorless, clear, non-viscous, of low intensity, and has a bitter, aromatic taste. Its odor is very mildly citrus, with herbaceous afternotes. I have used it in a citrus accord as well as making some bases with it for perfumery purposes. White fleshed Pomelo is milder in acidity than the red-fleshed. Pomelo, when analyzed by GCMS, has been found to contain up to 62% d-limonene, anethol to 9.5%, and nootketone to 5.6%.

Supercritical CO2 extraction has been done on Pomelo flowers and analyzed, and Pomelo CO2 can be used in perfumery and other uses now being examined.

Pomelo rind is used to control coughs and as an expectorant. Pomelo peel extract has also been studied in mice to prevent high-fat diet-induced metabolic disorders. Since it is related to Grapefruit as one of grapefruit’s primary parents, it shares common furanocoumarins (because of the potential for furanocoumarins to increase the bloodstream concentration of a drug to higher than expected, it can lead to unfortunate consequences), and thus should not be taken with heart medications. Steam-distilled Pomelo peel, when used externally, does not cause sun toxicity.

Pomelo fruit and essential oil photo by Jeanne Rose

Pomelo fruit and EO

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ODOR DESCRIPTION/ AROMA ASSESSMENT ~ Citrus Notes ~ Citrus oils are used in the perfumery business to impart a fresh, sparkling note to any blend. They are usually not overpowering. They can be used in up to 25% as the base scent for classic types of eau de cologne. Citrus oils harmonize with many other essential oils, and they are used in different concentrations in almost all scent blends and modern perfumes. >In combination with Lavender oil, citrus oils are the base for English Lavender, which is an 1826 creation.< High concentrations of citrus oils are in Chanel No. 5 (1921). Also of importance are the citrus oils in pop drinks like Coca-Cola and others.

GENERAL PROPERTIES of the Citrus

PROPERTIES AND USES~ Some of the citrus oils are relaxing, and most are very enlivening. They are calming but do not cause lethargy or fatigue. In general, these oils are slightly antiseptic, ease gut spasms (antispasmodic), can be slight diuretics, purifying (depurative), ease stomach aches, cholagogue (promotes the discharge of bile); and when inhaled, can be calming but not exhausting; and in skin care or by external application in products have antiseptic properties.

PHYSICAL USES & HOW USED ~
Application (AP) – Citrus oils go nicely into many blends that are used for skincare. It would be a top note or heart note to other aromatic oils in natural perfumery and blends well with many. In lotions and creams, they have a slight antiseptic quality as well as an aromatic livening scent.

Ingestion (IG) – Do not drink the essential oils. Drink the juice instead or dry and keep the peels for your bath and for potpourri.

Inhalation (IN) – Citrus oils are generally relaxing but not tiring by inhalation, especially when mixed with some of your other favorites, such as Lavender, Spikenard, Jasmine, and many more.

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EXTERNAL USES & HOW USED ~

SKIN CARE FORMULAS are available in my 350-page Herbal Body Book, which is chock-full of great skin, hair, and body care formulas. It is available from me at www.jeannerose.net.

Here is one I have always enjoyed. They can add nuance to any blend or perfume.
A CITRUS MASK BY JEANNE ROSE

The San Clemente Citrus Mask. Peel a small orange, a small Lemon, or other citrus, and mash the pulp, or else put the pulp into a blender and blend. Add enough yellow Cornmeal to make it gritty. Apply to your clean, slightly moistened face or body. Let the mask stay for a few minutes. If you have collected the juices separately, add them to steaming water and steam your face for a minute. Roll on the gritty citrus meal with your fingers for a gentle exfoliation. Rinse off the mask with tepid water, or take a shower and rinse off the mask, or use the gritty Citrus/Cornmeal as a scrub to also exfoliate your legs and arms. Dry and apply a citrus hydrosol spray to finish.
There are many ways to use this mask, and it will leave your skin very fresh and clean. Use it when you are fatigued and to prevent aging.
The San Clemente Mask reminded my husband of hot supermarkets and parking lots; so, when your feet are hot, and your eyeballs feel like they are falling out of your face from the heat, apply the San Clemente Orange, and you will feel better. [see p. 190 of The Herbal Body Book for more].

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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ You can pretty much mix and match your citrus oils any way you wish with other Mediterranean-type oils or florals. Pick the effect and choose your oil. Look at the citrus blogposts already posted for many uses and blends. I have already written about Bergamot, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Tangerine, Orange, Bitter Orange, Neroli, Petitgrain, and Yuzu.

_______Emotional/Energetic Uses (AP or IN) ~ Inhale the citrus oils to combat apathy, to stimulate appetite, to increase creativity, to improve mood, to give joy, to refresh your life. Remember them when you are depressed, exhausted, and need emotional healing. All the citrus oils have a joyful, sunny quality to them.

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PHYSICAL USE BY INHALATION ~ Get your oils and use Lavender, Lemon, and YlangYlang; it was found that this aromatherapy oil combination is effective in lowering systolic blood pressure and sympathetic nerve system activity. The blend was 2-2-1, and you can read about it here. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21157172
This combination works exceedingly well to reduce blood pressure and feelings of stress and anxiousness. It need only be slowly and quietly inhaled over the period of a minute or so.

Photo of the three oils in the formula. Photo by Jeanne Rose

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BLENDING & PERFUMERY ~ Blending with citrus oils is very easy. It is almost impossible to make a mistake. Know what you want to do, pick the correct citrus for the effect, and then make a few samples to scent and try. Mix with Rosemary, Vetivert, Cloves, Caraway, or herbs, roots, flower buds, and seeds. Use the charts in Chapter 1 of The Herbal Body Book and The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, to make your selection of the oil and the application.

EAU DE COLOGNE
The best is made with a variety of citrus scents with added Rosemary. There are many ways to make this cologne. George W. Askinson, Dr. of Chem. in 1865, said, “Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made by dissolving the essential oils in the alcohols and then distilling it, then adding the Rosemary and Neroli to the distillate. Dissolve the aromatics in 95% neutral grape spirits — distill — add the Neroli and the Rosemary.” Effect the dilution required with Orange flower water or Rose water. Ultimately, Eau de cologne is 75% fragrant alcohol and 25% water or flower water.

Here is one recipe, and Orange spirits can be substituted at the end for some of the Grape spirits. You can adjust the ingredients up and down as you see fit.
1 quart (85-95%) Grape spirits (substitute some Orange Spirits for some of the grape)
4 ml Orange peel CP
2 ml Bergamot peel CP
½ ml Bitter Orange CP
½ ml Neroli petal EO
2 ml Rosemary EO
You can also make it of Corn spirit, which has a distinct aroma difference from the Grape or Orange spirit.

Four different scents of neutral spirits by organicalcohol.com ... photo by Jeanne Rose

The difference between eau de Cologne, made in France, and made in England is the difference in the spirit used, which results in a completely different odor. Fine perfumes should only be made with freshly distilled 70-95% neutral grape spirits.

All the older perfumes were diluted down with neutral grape spirits. Originally, they were considered medicines and were taken internally by the drop. After the introduction of synthetics, around 1850, perfumes were made with chemicalized ingredients and were no longer edible. However, even today certain uplifting ‘spirits’ are sold in Europe as a tonic against seasickness, carsickness and all sorts of nausea.

“The original eau de cologne was invented in 1709 by a man named Farina who was homesick for his home country of Italy. He described the scent and said it reminded him of a spring morning with mountain daffodils and the orange blossoms after a rain.” ⁷

HYDROSOL ~ I truly love all of the citrus hydrosols. I use them for everything. I found that a well-distilled lemon peel hydrosol as a wash was great for itchy eyes. I have used Neroli hydrosol as a perfume, Orange hydrosol to spray my house at Christmas, and so many other uses. Read the individual blog posts for using citrus hydrosols. My favorite places to purchase citrus hydrosols are from people who live where the citrus grow, and that includes LancasterCreations.com, as they are an organic apothecary and community in the growing heart of California and near the ancient Sequoias of the Sierras.

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CITRUS LEAF DISTILLATE TOMATO TALE

In September 2019, the citrus leaves arrived. I opened them, examined the leaves, and noticed they were covered with dust; the leaves were absolutely covered with whatever came out of the sky. So, I carefully washed and cleaned every one of them by hand. Then had a good whiff and enjoyed the odor. If you want Petitgrain hydrosol, you will have to get leaves ONLY from an area that is out of the pollution and somewhere where the air is clean and the citrus is organically grown.

The only other time I have ever seen leaves so dirty and musty like this is when I was taken to an abandoned Orange grove in Los Angeles that was at the center of a confluence of interstate freeways and in the smog — my Distillation class, and I picked leaves individually, washed, wiped, dried, cleaned each one before we did the distillation. When we were done, we passed the hydrosol around just for the smell but then poured it away, back onto the ground under the trees. I know there are organic farms in the California foothills where you could pick organically grown citrus leaves that are not encrusted with pollutants. I worry about people and their children who are inhaling these pollutants every day. I hope that people think about this and take some sort of protective herbs for the lungs and on the skin and do not pick and use any plant product that is not organically grown and sustainable.

Citrus leaves used for Petitgrain. Photo by Jeanne Rose

PLEASE NOTE: A true hydrosol should be specifically distilled for the hydrosol, not as a co-product or even a by-product of essential oil distillation. The plant’s cellular water has many components. Most are lost under pressurized short steam runs for essential oil or by using dried material. We recommend that the producers specifically distill for a product by using plant material that is fresh.

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CITRUS INTERESTING INFORMATION ~ THE KEEPING QUALITIES OF CITRUS OILS ~ “Lemon and Orange oils even improve after a year or two of cold storage in that some of the dissolved waxes separate from the oil and may be removed easily by filtration. The resulting oils are more soluble and produce clearer extracts. Neither odor nor flavor is impaired if the oils are kept in tin-lined fully filled drums.”⁶
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KEY USE ~ Citrus peels, leaves, and flowers are used for scent, and the flesh is used for food and ritual.

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Citrus Limerick (2019)
Citrus fruit is delicious to eat
The taste is fine and cannot be beat.
Bright and sunny
Just like honey
Citrus fruit is better than meat.

CITRUS TOMATO TALE FROM 1961-1963

            Years ago, in 1961-1963, I lived in the middle of an Orange grove, in a sweet white farm-style house with high ceilings and ceiling fans, lots of windows where the breezes could blow through with the scent of oranges and citrus flowers. I lived there with my husband and my blue Great Dane dog, George. George later became an important figure in my rock and roll world and was eventually photographed for the cover of an album as well as the centerpiece of a photograph that included fashion I had designed and the models wearing them, including Janis Joplin. But our lives started here in the middle of a fragrant orange grove.
            I had a big square white bedroom with a ceiling fan and right outside the bedroom window was a large citrus tree that had had grafted onto its trunk various varieties of citrus. This tree, depending upon the season, was an orange tree, lime tree, lemon tree, grapefruit tree, or one other variety that I have forgotten. Part of it was always in bloom, and it always scented up the dark, humid Florida nights. Those were the days of no cell phones, little to no TV, and those quiet, dark nights amongst the trees and the divine scent of citrus flowers. Eating fresh citrus every day and smelling those luscious flowers in the evening was the best part of my time living in Florida. I wonder if the sweet scent still lingers and the quiet can still be found there in the night.
            Eventually, George and I jumped into my red Comet station wagon with all our belongings and made a 6-week rambling journey across the United States to come home to California and start the next phase of life in Big Sur, CA.

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Safety Precautions

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References ~
¹ A classification for edible Citrus (Rutaceae) D.J. Mabberley, unknown date
²https://www.popoptiq.com/types-of-lemons/
³ Mabberley, D. J. Mabberley’s Plant-Book, 3^rd edition, 2014 printing, Cambridge University Press.
⁴ Employment of a new strategy for identification of lemon (Citrus limon L.) cultivars using RAPD markers. Q Mu, X Sun, G Zhong, X Wang… – African Journal, 2012 – academicjournals.org

⁵Pharmacogn Rev. 2016 Jul-Dec; 10(20): 118–122.doi: 10.4103/0973-7847.194043. Anticancer Activity of Key Lime, Citrus aurantifoliabyNithithep Narang and Wannee Jiraungkoorskul
⁶Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Volume III.Krieger. 1974
⁷http://www.cologneboutique.com/the-history-behind-eau-de-cologne/
Herbal Studies Course/ Jeanne Rose & Berkeley, California: North Atlantic Books, 1992

Pomelo essential oil provided by tahaiyen@gmail.com
Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. Berkeley, California: Frog, Ltd., 1999
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book: Applications & Inhalations. San Francisco, CA.
Rose, Jeanne. The Herbal Body Book, San Francisco, CA 2000 from 1976. The best and most complete.
Rose, Jeanne. Kitchen Cosmetics. San Francisco, CA.
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Antique postcard of citrus groves

Elemi Resin

May 30, 2023October 26, 2023 / Jeanne Rose / 1 Comment

Elemi Resin & Essential Oil Profile & Uses

Jeanne Rose

Synopsis: Elemi, native to the Philippines, the bark resin is extracted and steam distilled;
the E.O. is clear and pale yellow with a citrus scent,
is therapeutic and used in perfumery as a bridge note or fixative
and in skin care (with Galbanum) to rejuvenate and soothe the complexion.
The resin has a history of medicinal uses.

Elemi E.O. and resin

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LATIN BINOMIAL/BOTANICAL NAME ~ Elemi (Canarium luzonicum) (Blume) A.Gray and from Family Burseraceae. The tree bark produces a resin generally grouped as a balsam; it is more viscous than an oleoresin, very gooey, soft, malleable, and fragrant. When fresh, it is like crystalized honey and will later harden.

FAMILY – Burseraceae family is the same family that produces Frankincense and Myrrh. The family Burseraceae comprises about 16-20 genera of shrubs and trees.

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NAMING ~ Elemi is known as “Pili” in the Philippines. Elemi is a common name for resinous items used as varnishes, printing inks, and ointments. The word itself in Arabic, a translation of Elemi, is similar to the saying “as above, so below”.•

History: “It was Magellan’s discovery of the Philippines in 1521 that led to Manila elemi – known for its medicinal properties and fragrance – being introduced to Europe and the Middle East. The product’s name dates from this period, from the Arabic El-lemi. Its use in “Chinese incense” for religious ceremonies was already being mentioned in China in the 7th century. Further, it was used as a fumigant to perfume homes. Small bags of Elemi were also worn around the neck in that era. Starting in the 18th century, the West began regularly using Elemi for its therapeutic properties, and it is mentioned in many texts, including as “the inventory of simple drugs that must always be kept on hand in the King’s hospital pharmacies.” ²

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COUNTRIES OF ORIGIN of Elemi ~ Native to the Philippines. Manila Elemi is a resin (from the bark) grouped in the balsam category and is more viscous than an oleoresin; it is semisolid and quite fragrant. The Philippine Elemi resin (Canarium luzonicum) is also one of the best-known and the source of the world’s largest supply.

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GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF PLANT, HABITAT & GROWTH ~ Elemi trees grow in lowland rainforests and primary forests at low and medium elevations. It is an evergreen tree about 30 meters in height, pollinated by insects, and not self-fertile. The resin comes from both cultivated and wild trees.

Elemi Resin

PORTION OF PLANT USED IN DISTILLATION, HOW DISTILLED, EXTRACTION METHODS & YIELD ~ The tree bark of Canarium produces large quantities of the resin over a period of months. It is available both in the dry and the wet season, and there is a greater flow of resin during the wet season. A mature tree can produce up to five kilograms of Elemi a year. The gum is then shipped to warehouses using large palm fronds and placed in large wooden crates for export.

While Frankincense is sweet and musky, Elemi delivers a fresh, peppery-citrus aroma.

Elemi E.O. and CO₂ are extracted from the bark resin using steam distillation or a supercritical carbon dioxide system from a tropical tree native to the Philippines. It is a member of the Burseraceae plant family and is closely related to a resin that resembles Frankincense and Myrrh.

Yield ~ 13-25% from the resin. Some sources mention yields as low as 3-6%.

•

ENDANGERED OR NOT ~ This particular species tree is considered to be threatened and/or vulnerable due to heavy usage, people moving into the areas where they live, and by over-tapping. Some species of Canarium are also considered to be invasive.

Sustainability ~ These items may not be sustainable in the amounts used. My suggestion is to use only the actual resin as it was once meant to be, as incense, in small, moderate amounts as needed, and not use the essential oil at all.

••

This work is sponsored and supported
by Prima Fleur Botanicals.

ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS OF RESIN AND EO

ELEMI Resin & Oil	Resin	EO
Color:	Pale yellow	Pale yellow to colorless
Clarity:	opaque	clear
Viscosity:	Very viscous	Non-viscous
Taste:	none	Bitter, aromatic
Intensity of Odor: • 1-10 • 1 is least intense	3	4-5

ODOR DESCRIPTION ~ This oil has a clear to a yellow hue, is non-viscous, tastes bitter, and is medium intensity with a citrus resin scent. The odor of some Elemi E.O. is somewhat like the flower and leaf of Choisya in the spring when it is full of phellandrene. The odor of the principal oil constituent of alpha-phellandrene (more in the spring of Choisya) and the odor of β-phellandrene has been described as peppery-minty with a slightly citrusy note, and phellandrene is absorbed through the skin. Thus, the hydrosol of this resin is excellent in the bath or as a body spray, and the E.O. is helpful in skin care. It is anti-inflammatory.

•

SOLUBILITY in 3 mediums – When you see Elemi discussed, it will often be described as a gum resin, resin, or an oleo-resin. Because each of these words has different meanings, I conducted my own simple experiment in determining the solubility of Elemi, in water (to see if it was a gum), in alcohol (to determine how quickly it might dissolve), and in oil (to see if it could be described as an oleo-resin). It was a revelation.

The solubility of Elemi is Soluble in 0.5 to 5 vol. of 90% alcohol; and usually soluble in 5-10 vol. of 80% alcohol. It is about 30-50% soluble in oil and, by my own experiment, NOT soluble in water; thus, it is an oleo-resin and not a gum resin.

…

SOLUBILITY in 3 mediums

5/27/18 At 9:30 A.M.
Day 1. Using 15 ml. Of 95% Neutral Grape Spirits, a combo of Sunflower/Jojoba Oil or distilled Water.
Day 2. Resin is dissolving in alcohol, slightly dissolved in oil, and not dissolving in water.
Day 3. Dissolved in alcohol; 30-50% dissolved in oil; not dissolved in water. [not a gum]

•

CHEMICAL COMPONENTS ~ A study on the composition of Elemi essential oil from Manila and from the distillation of Elemi resin yielded 39 compounds, with the most abundant being phellandrene or limonene. Limonene for some tests was at 56%, or phellandrene was higher at 25-28%. These components change depending on the terroir and where and when the tree was harvested and distilled. Constituents are limonene and phellandrene with smaller amounts of elemol, elemicin, dipentene, and terpineol.

This oil is clear and light yellow in color and is non-viscous. Its main constituent is phellandrene (25-28%).

The soft nature of Elemi resin partly results from the quantity of liquid sesquiterpenes. It sometimes crystallizes from the triterpenes and becomes opaque and white.⁴The optical rotation of this E.O. and the fresh resin changes if stored in sunlight, and care should be taken to keep either in a dark container. A box will be sufficient for the resin, and for large amounts of the oil, brown glass is best.

•

INTERESTING INFORMATION AND HISTORY ABOUT ELEMI ~ When Frankincense became too costly and scarce for mass consumption, Elemi quickly became a logical replacement, offering many of the same therapeutic benefits. In Arabic, a translation of Elemi is similar to the saying “as above, so below.” It was revered as an oil of the Gods and, like Frankincense, was used in meditation and prayer. While Frankincense is fruity and herbal, Elemi delivers a fresh, citrus-spicy aroma.

Artifacts dating from Egypt’s 26^th dynasty (664 B.C. and 525 B.C.) have been found at Saqqara that contained a fat-based ointment containing Elemi, a fragrant resin from tropical trees. “Elemi and another resin Dammar have not previously been linked to ancient Egyptian embalming practices and are highly unexpected.” “Elemi was present in the (embalming) workshop mixtures used to treat the head, liver, and body bandages.”^6.

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Several bottles of essential oil of Elemi with the resin and a crystal and a shell.

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PROPERTIES OF ELEMI RESIN AND ESSENTIAL OIL

Elemi resin is antibacterial, antifungal, antiseptic, antispasmodic, and rubefacient; it is used in plasters to ease coughing. If used in medicine, Elemi is a potent antiseptic that protects against bacterial and viral infections, fungus, and septic shock. Its resin is soft, odorous and has the texture of honey. It was formerly exported for the European pharmaceutical trade as Manila or Philippine gum Elemi for use as an ointment for healing wounds and as a plaster. The valuable resin, called ‘Pili,’ aka Manila elemi or ‘breabianca,’ is used as an ingredient in manufacturing plastics, printing inks, and perfumes. It is also used by the Spaniards for ship repairs.

Raw nuts are purgative.

In skincare, it has been used to rejuvenate and heal wounds topically, as well as reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It is widely used as a fixative in fragrances, soaps, and cosmetics. Elemi may be used as an excellent base note in perfumery, where its inherent complexity is at once earthy and citrusy. During massage and aromatherapy treatments, it can be inhaled to reduce stress-related conditions and bring a feeling of peace and well-being.

Skilled practitioners have incorporated using Elemi to address bronchial and chest congestion due to its expectorant and stimulant properties. A potent antiseptic, Elemi protects against bacterial and viral infections, fungus, and septic shock.

Elemi, Canarium luzonicum, CO₂ wild resin #201, and steam-distilled #217 are both from the resin. Try a bold new step in your skin-nurturing regime; protect and nourish your body with a luxuriously rich combination in a custom skincare line.

Elemi Properties (by IG=ingestion or IN=inhalation or AP=application)

Manila elemi (the resin obtained from the tree) and the essential oil distilled from the resin have a long history of medicinal use. They are considered to be antibacterial, antifungal, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, and rubefacient.

•

Physical Uses & How Used (I.G. or I.G.). BA.P.Application – The resin can be melted and used in an ointment for wounds. The resin is applied externally in a salve to arthritic and rheumatic joints, boils, abscesses, furuncles, burns, and sores. It is heated and used on the chest as a poultice to stop severe coughing. The essential oil is an ingredient in a commercial preparation that is a natural anti-louse foaming gel, and this gel also contains Echinacea purpurea.

SKINCARE ~ ELEMI ~ Canarium luzonicum, the wild resin, is extracted by CO2 extraction and steam distilled for the E.O. It was used by the great Marguerite MAURY, a French biochemist and cosmetics chemist. In the 1950s, she was the first to use essential oils from plants in a new method and by using therapeutic massage. Marguerite Maury believed that Elemi with Galbanum would eventually rejuvenate the complexion and body.

It is used in products and perfumery. Try it in your skin-nurturing ritual; protect and nourish the skin with a 2% combination of these two ingredients in your night cream and daytime protection cream. In skincare, it has been used to rejuvenate and heal wounds topically, as well as reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It is widely used as a fixative in fragrances, soaps, and cosmetics.

Make a luxuriously rich combination of these two resins in a combination of Rice Bran oil and Rosehip seed oil to protect and nourish your body and add to your skincare routine. Use this as a luxuriously rich combination in your custom skincare line.

Elemi & Rose Lotion

By Ingestion – A corn kernel-sized drop of the resin is taken with water and is used in the treatment of fevers and chills.

By Inhalation – Skilled practitioners have incorporated the use of Elemi oil by inhalation or in a blend in a diffuser to address bronchial and chest congestion due to its expectorant and stimulant properties.

••

Emotional/Energetic Uses (AP or IN):

Inhalation – The resin burns smoky but with a delightful citrus scent. Inhaled, it stimulates mental and psychic ability, gives spiritual balance, and calms the mind. Elemi resin for the 3^rd chakra, the solar plexus, vibrates in yellow, the sound is E, and its scent is citrus-like and helps to balance your fire spirit. The smoke is used by inhalation “to treat the thymus gland.^3”

Emotional Attributes -cleansing/purifying, strengthening, creativity, meditation, prayer. “On the emotional system, Elemi oil imparts a strengthening, balancing, and centering action, which makes it valuable in meditation. Use it to stimulate mental ability when you suffer from stress, nervous exhaustion, or simply feeling sluggish. Elemi essential oil can be used to help dispel loneliness and create a more positive outlook and encourage hopefulness.”⁵

• •

USING ELEMI herb, resin, and oil

HERBAL USES ~ One species of Canarium,  Canarium ovatum, the seed is used in the traditional Chinese dessert called ‘mooncakes’, “The kernel (seed) is a major ingredient in this famous Chinese festive dessert’. However, kernels from some trees may be bitter, fibrous or have a turpentine odor. Young shoots are used in salads, and the fruit pulp is eaten after it is boiled and seasoned. Boiled Elemi pulp called pili resembles the sweet potato in texture, it is oily (about 12%) and is considered to have food value similar to the Avocado. Pulp oil can be used for cooking. Young shoots from the tree are used in salads, and the fruit pulp is eaten after it is boiled and seasoned.¹"
          The tree bark is commonly used for postpartum baths.

•

Use the essential oils in moderation. Choose to use the herb tea or resin more often.

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DIFFUSE/DIFFUSION ~ Elemi is a resin and thus can gum up a diffuser. Suggest trying something else for that lovely citrus scent, like a combination of Lemon-Grapefruit-Orange CP (cold-pressed) in your diffuser. Use Elemi, the resin burned on charcoal, to clear the spirit of your home.

I always use charcoal to burn resin, which is the way of using holy incense. I do it outside. And see the smoke curl into the air, and smell what is left in the air. It is a sacred thing. Resin is burned because it is fragrant and the “food of the gods” which they inhale. Burning incense is to feed the gods, and it is a meditative process.

BLENDING & PERFUMERY ~ Elemi blends well with Rose and other florals, adding a complex, spicy-citrus note. It contributes a unique freshness to Frankincense, Myrrh, Labdanum, Lavender, Rosemary, and Sage.

E.O. Perfumery – Elemi E.O. may be used as an excellent base note where its inherent complexity is at once earthy and citrusy. During massage and aromatherapy, it can be inhaled to reduce stress-related conditions and bring a feeling of peace and well-being.

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HYDROSOL ~ I have not as yet had the opportunity to try an Elemi leaf, bark, or resin hydrosol.

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Key Use: ‘Resin for Skin Rejuvenation’ — M. Maury

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Science article: Elemi contains dipentene and elemicine, which are responsible for Elemi being a strong antiseptic, protecting wounds, and being a strong healer. expectorant. https://www.discoverlsp.com/news/chemical-focus.html

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References:
^1.http://www.worldagroforestry.org/treedb2/speciesprofile.php?Spid=425
http://www.scents-of-earth.com/elemi.html
^2. http://www.albertvieille.com/en/products/55-elemi-essential-oil-philippines.html
^3. Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book Applications & Inhalations. www.jeannerose.net/books.html
^4.Langenheim, Plant Resins
^{5 .}https://www.quinessence.com/blog/elemi-essential-oil
^6.Bower, Bruce. Egyptian Mummy Recipes Revealed. Science News. February 25, 2023, p.6

•

Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils. Krieger Publishing Company, Malabar, Florida. 1972 reprint

https://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Canarium+luzonicum

Mabberley, D.J., Mabberley’s Plant Book, 2008 Third Edition with 2014 updates, Cambridge University Press

Rose, Jeanne. 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols. http://www.jeannerose.net/books.html

Elemi ~ A corny Jeanne Rose Limerick
Elemi, the resin smells citrus
But always sweetly odiferous
Gooey, it’s true
And so sticky too
But one thing it’s not is cruciferous.

• • •

PATCH TEST ~ If applying a new essential oil to your skin, always perform a patch test on the inner arm (afterE.O.ou have diluted the E.O. in a vegetable carrier oil). —Wash an area of your forearm about the size of a quarter and dry carefully. Apply E.O.iluted drop (1 drop E.O. + 1 drop carrier) to the area. Then apply a loose Band-Aid and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, then go ahead and use the oil in your formulas. —The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations, p. 64

DISCLAIMER: This work is intended for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for accurate diagnosis and treatment by a qualified health care professional. Dosages are often not given, as that matters between you and your healthcare provider. The author is neither a chemist nor a medical doctor. The content herein is the product of research and personal and practical experience. Institute of Aromatic & Herbal Studies – Jeanne Rose©

••

Moderation in All Things.

Be moderate in using essential oils, as they are not environmentally sustainable.
Be selective and more moderate in your usage.
Use the herb first as tea or the infusion. —JeanneRose 2010

HOME PERFUMERY – pt. 2

January 6, 2021October 26, 2023 / Jeanne Rose / 1 Comment

Home Perfumery – Part 2 ~ Synopsis ~ How do you make perfume? Here is a plan to work at home and how to begin, how to start, and what supplies you need. Use naturals. Here is what do you need to know.

Read this ~ part 1 …. https://jeannerose-blog.com/home-perfumery/

and Read this ~ & https://jeannerose-blog.com/natural-perfumery/

USING YOUR OILS, CONCRETES, AND ABSOLUTE:
part 2 Home Perfumery

Showing the work table in the home perfumery room — **work table in the perfumery**

CONCENTRATE
Use them; use your oils by making blends, perfumes and scents. Always write everything down. Remember the secret word — time —. It takes time for a scent to develop. This means that you make your Bases to make the Accords to make the Notes to make the final perfume. Each step along the way, allow the bases, the accord, the notes, the perfume to develop with time. Be patient. [A base note is a note, it is not the bases.]

•

George Askinson was a chemist and had something to say about the blending of perfume materials.
“Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made by dissolving the essential oils in the alcohols and then distilling it, then adding the rosemary and Neroli to the distillate.”

Perfume bottles, and a ceramic plate — **Perfume bottles, ceramic plate, and a pyramid**

“It is not the number of oils that determines the fineness of a perfume,
but the manner in which certain odors are combined.” … George Askinson, 1865
§

Describing a well-balanced perfume — **WHAT IS A WELL-BALANCED PERFUME? – JeanneRose “Natural Perfumery”**

BASIC INFORMATION YOU SHOULD ALREADY KNOW: KNOW

DO: Be selective of where you purchase your essential oils. The quality of essential oils varies widely from company to company. Be sure to ask if the essential oils are 100% pure, natural, without carrier oil and not adulterated. See the Source List, Ch. VI of The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations.

DO: Pay special attention to all safety information on all essential oils that you use. Again, cross-reference the oils you are using in your textbook The Aromatherapy Book, p. 64, for any cautions the oil may have. This is even more important if you have a medical condition or are pregnant.

DO: Write down everything you do when blending. Keep a notebook handy to jot down notes, ideas and recipes for future reference. There is nothing more maddening than trying to recreate a blend you are fond of only to have forgotten some of the ingredients.

DO NOT: Do not buy perfume/fragrance/scented oils. They are NOT the same as essential oils from plants. Perfume oils are synthetic, they are made of chemicals; they do not offer the therapeutic benefits of essential oils. If you use aromatherapy simply to enjoy the aroma, essential oils offer therapeutic benefits while synthetic oils may make you sick. Remember, perfume oils do not have any therapeutic benefits.

DO NOT: Do not buy essential oil products with rubber dropper tops. Essential oils are concentrated, volatile and will turn the rubber gummy. Be careful to wipe up any essential oils that spill on any wood or plastic surface. They will stain or remove the finish. Do store your essential oils in glass bottles with orifice reducers or dropper inserts. Store in a cool, dark place, in a box or in the refrigerator.

Storage of Essential Oils

Essential oils do not go rancid, as they do not have any fatty acids. They can oxidize (change their chemistry). To protect your oils, they should be kept protected from the light either in clear glass in a lightproof container or in amber or cobalt blue bottles and away from heat and the sun. The non-science that says only amber bottles is not science, but people crowd sourcing incorrect information. Keep in clear, colorless glass and you can see what you have; and keep these bottles in a box or in a cupboard when not in use.

Blue oils (blue-colored oils) should be stored in the freezer. (Blue Chamomile, Blue Tansy, Blue Sage, Blue Artemis, Roman Chamomile, Yellow Chamomile)

Citrus oils can be stored in the refrigerator. (Orange, Lemon, Grapefruit, Yuzu, Petitgrain, Neroli, Lime, etc.). The waxes that are in these expressed oils may settle out into tiny white bits. This is okay, just filter out those white bits.

Most oils should be stored in a cool, dark place, wine cellar or refrigerator. (Rosemary, Lavender, Marjoram, Thyme, etc.)

Resinous oils may be stored anywhere but not in the cold. (Frankincense, Myrrh, Labdanum, Cistus)

PERFUME IS LIKE MUSIC

A chart showing how a perfume develops in layers like music — **Perfume is built in layers like music**

the home perfumery table showing textbooks, vocabulary of odor bottles, scent blotters and scents — **The Home Perfumery Table with reference books and essentials**

Writing a Formula

NAME OF PERFUME ____________________________ DATE _____________ Your Name ______________

Here is a list of what was covered in one of our previous Natural Botanical Perfumery Classes. We will be able to do as much each year the class is given.

http://www.JeanneRose.net/calendar.html

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projects that are completed in a class. — **PERFUMERY CLASS – Completed Projects in 8-days**

Bibliography and Book Resource ~
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
Calkin, Robert R. and J. Stephan Jellinek. Perfumery Practice and Principles, Wiley Interscience, 1994.
Guenther, Ernest: The Essential Oils, volumes I-VI, Krieger. 1949.
Mabberley, D. J. The Plant Book
McMahon, Christopher. AROMAtherapy 2037, Fall 97. “Tuberose Treasure”
———. AROMAtherapy 2037, Summer 97. “Extraction of Floral Concretes”
———. AROMAtherapy 2037, Winter 97/98. “Mimosa Harvesting”.
Ohloff, Günther: Scent and Fragrances, Springer-Verlag 1990. Translated by Pickenhagen and Lawrence
Piesse, G. W. Septimus. The Art of Perfumery. 1867
Rose, Jeanne: 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols; Frog, Ltd. 1999.
— Natural Botanical Perfumery Workbook • 2018
— Writing of the Rose, 1998
— AROMAtherapy 2037. Winter 1997/98
— The Aromatherapy Book, Applications & Inhalations 1996.
— Herbs & Things, Last Gasp. 2002
— The World of Aromatherapy, 1996.
Thompson, C. J. S. The Mystery and Lure of Perfume. Lippincott. 1927.
Wildwood, Christine. Creative Aromatherapy. 1993.
Williams, David G.: The Chemistry of Essential Oils, Micelle Press. 1996.
The Oxford English Dictionary.

picture of the perfumery workbook — **Perfumery Workbook**

Available from http://www.JeanneRose.net/books.html

•

Source List ~
Acme Vial
www.edenbotanicals.com
www.organicalcohol.com
www.primafleur.com
www.jeannerose.net/books.html

HOME PERFUMERY

December 2, 2020October 26, 2023 / Jeanne Rose / 7 Comments

Synopsis ~ How do you make perfume? Here is a plan to work at home and how to begin, how to start, and what supplies you need. Use naturals. Here is what do you need to know.

Home Perfumery – WHAT YOU NEED & WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

part 1. By Jeanne Rose, 2020

INTRODUCTION ~ So you want to make perfume? You plan to work at home and just don’t know how to begin. How do you start? What supplies will you need? Are you going to use naturals or synthetics? Do you know the difference? What do you need to know?

Home perfumery is gaining widespread popularity all over the world and is gradually moving towards the mainstream. It is especially strong as a niche scent concept in the United States of America. The use of scent as perfume cuts across gender, social, and racial classes, because it is emotional, it is physical, it is social, and it can smell divine. Annual sales of basic ingredients and perfume end products are staggering. An important driver in this upsurge in scent acceptance is due to its status of being thought a natural product with the people thinking it is low toxicity, it really works, it is very accessible, easy to do, prepare and use.

Since the beginning of recorded history, humans have attempted to mask or enhance their own odor by using perfume, which they hope will emulate nature’s pleasant smells. Many natural and man-made materials have been used to make perfume to apply to the skin and clothing, to put in cleaners and cosmetics, or to scent the air. Because of differences in body chemistry, temperature, and body odors, no perfume will smell exactly the same on any two people. The United States is the world’s largest perfume market with annual sales totaling several billions of dollars.

This article is about making perfumes with natural, botanical ingredients – only. No synthetics.

**Jeanne Rose workspace in the perfumery**

Getting to Know Your SPACE – Oils

Space, Supplies-Oils, Preparation, Recall, Focus, Time

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SPACE ~ What You Need •

If you are making perfumes from natural ingredients at home – you will need to think about your basic space and equipment.

Make a space to do it. It helps to designate a special area set-aside for storing your equipment and blending your perfumes. It should be a well-ventilated, well-lit area or room. However, air conditioning is not advised as it takes the scents out of the air. Designate a specific long table or desk as your workspace and demand no one will put any food or objects on it. There should be shelves or cabinets for storing your essential scents and finished fragrances; ideally, they should be stored in a room where the temperature is about 55° (a wine-type room). Store your essential oils in glass bottles, I prefer clear glass to be able to examine and look at the colors of the oils, but they should ultimately be kept in a cool, dark storage space. All oils should be out of direct sunlight or covered in boxes. Oils/absolutes should not be subjected to changes in temperature.

The kitchen is not the best place for blending your perfumes, even though it may seem ideal because of access to cabinets, a table, sink, running water and utensils. And working around an open flame and stove burners can be hazardous as essential oils and alcohol can explode.

**Supplies are important. Make sure you have the scents and the back-up supplies.**

•

SUPPLIES ~ Have the correct supplies and tools at hand for blending to make the process easier and more precise. The following is an idea list of perfumery supplies that you should have at hand:

1-dozen small glass cups (2-inch) or shot-size glasses with measurement on the side
Adhesive labels – small
Air that is fresh for clearing nose; Coffee beans, salt or piece of wool may work but are NOT necessary.
Alcohol for cleaning droppers or vials; use cheap isopropyl EtOH; then rinse with clear water and dry, Alcohol for rinsing, a quick Grape spirit rinse using scent-free alcohol. www.organicalcohol.com
Alcohol for dilution — cane, corn, pear, wheat or grape depending on the odor being diluted.
Apron or Lab coat to wear over your clothing and shoes that cover your feet for protection.
Bags – small to medium to large plastic Ziploc bags
Beakers for measuring from 5 ml to 150 ml
Books – The Aromatherapy Book, Application & Inhalation; 375 Essential Oils & Hydrosols; Natural Botanical
Perfumery Workbook, by Jeanne Rose to give you the basic information on the essential oils & absolutes.
Bottles and Vials – you will need a varied selection of clear, colorless bottles and vials, particularly the
½-dram, 1-dram, 2 -dram, 4-dram vials from Acme Vial in California. Also get the orifice reducers.
Bowl – small (I prefer thin glass bowls on the smaller size)
Clock with a second hand or a timer
Cotton balls – get the larger size or the flat cotton discs
Dishwashing detergent
Glass vials or bottles (various sizes) – see above
Labels – small ones. Label everything with contents, your name and the full date (include the year).
Measuring spoons or ear scoops (wooden or metal spoons to scoop out earwax, but you use for concrètes)
Pen and notebook or pad for writing down everything that you do.
Pencil/s – Pencils are needed to write labels as essential oils can dissolve ink or ball point markings.
Pipettes or droppers (plastic or glass). Find and use the ones that you prefer.
Scale, digital – to measure weight precisely to 0.005
Scent blotters
Scissors, sharp of a small size
Stirrers, glass works well or glass drink stirrers.
Towels, both paper and cotton
Vocabulary of Odor Kit© – to be able to describe odors. You will want to start with the

Water or bowl of water

AND

Alcohol, Neutral grape and grain spirits (for making perfumes, colognes, splashes)

Bases (make and keep as many as you want, label them fully with the ingredients)

Carrier oils (for alcohol -free perfumes)

Distilled water (for making splashes)

Alphabetical – Keep your products/oils/bases/accords in alphabetical order or by style you prefer.

What Oils/Absolutes Should you have to START?
This Is A Simple Supply List to Start With…

1.Bergamot, I prefer the whole Bergamot not the bergaptene-free. – SD
2.Cardamom – SD
3.Cedarwood, Atlas – SD
4, Champaca CO₂ or Osmanthus CO₂
5.Clary Sage, Russia – SD
6.Cocoa Abs
7.Frankincense CO₂, India
8.Geranium Abs (Pelargonium x asperum) Egypt or SD Pelargonium graveolens from Madagascar
9.Grapefruit, CP, Pink or white
10.Jasmine Abs, India
11.Lavender Abs or high-altitude SD Lavender
12.Neroli Extra, – SD
13.Labdanum Abs (diluted 50/50)
14.Orange, Wild or another citrus – SD
15.Patchouli, Dark is best. Lighter color Patchouli has less scent. – SD
16.Petitgrain Abs
17.Rose Abs, Morocco
18.Spikenard, Green or Vetivert – SD
19.Vanilla Abs (you may need to do a 50/50 dilution on this one)
20.Ylang Ylang Complete, Fine – SD

ABS = absolute; CD = cold-pressed; CO₂ = cold-pressed; SD = steam distilled
These 20 are good to start with but there are hundreds more that you can add. I prefer to use only pure and natural plant matter; the best that is available. I buy by quality and not by price and recommend you do the same. Mail-order. www.primafleur.com and www.edenbotanicals.com are my go-to and recommended places.

‡

**Essential oils come in many beautiful colors**

The above are the oils that are available to use in the JeanneRose Natural Botanical Perfumery class. You may choose to have all or only some of these in your perfumes. This is an expensive undertaking so choose well. It may be best to dilute all your oils/absolutes to 50•50 with95% neutral grape spirits. That way you can blend and then at the end after your perfume has aged, just add an equal amount of the 95% neutral spirit to have a 25% blend of your perfume. Just right for application or can be further diluted to 10 or even 15% with the addition of more alcohol. Always age your perfume before making the decision. You can always dilute but you cannot make it stronger.

•

PREPARATION ~
Have paper towels handy. You will need scent blotters, pipettes, a pen, pencil and your notebook. Do not wear any scent on your body and tie your hair back. Dress appropriately as if you were in a lab setting with your arms and shoulders and feet covered (against harmful lab spills).

Train the Memory by Developing the Limbic System through Smell

Smell ~ Scent

Know your oils/absolutes/concretes by their name, smell and intensity.
Throughout Steps 1 Through 6, Take Notes.

RECALL ~

Step 1. Less is More. To get the full spectrum of odor you may wish to dilute everything to 50•50 with the appropriate type alcohol.

Step 2. Before you start to blend, you will want to get to know your library of scents. Learn the Basic 7 Vocabulary of Odor© and the Advanced Circular 28 Vocabulary of Odor©. Read and memorize Chapter 3 of 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols called “Essential Oils are More Than Stinky”. This will tell you how to use the Advanced Circular Vocabulary of Odor©. You will need the “Advanced 28 Vocabulary of Odor Kit©” to properly do this and of course, natural odors to work with. (Use the chart)

To do this you will need your scent blotters/fragrance strips. Start with up to 5 oils. Write the name of the oil on the scent blotter. Also, write the time you used the scent blotter/strip and the date. Put one drop of oil on the strip with its name on it (or dip your strip 2 ml into your selected oil). Smell the strip briefly and note the fragrance. Imagine it as a color. Imagine it has a personality. Record your impressions on the chart. If you did not know the fragrance name, what would you call this fragrance? Sniff it again with your eyes closed. Do you smell or see anything different? Write this down in your notebook and note it on your Vocabulary of Odor© chart. Now put the strip away, label, and give you nose a chance to recover. Repeat for each scent/fragrance you examine. Describe them in words by your classification; by their Volatility, Strength, and Intensity. >See below<

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FOCUS ~

You’ll want to do this exercise in stages. No more than 4-5 individual oils at a time. Save your other oils for later in the day, or the next day.

Step 3: After 30 minutes, go back to each scent. Smell. Are there other notes in the fragrance that you recognize? Record your impressions and any changes that you notice.

Step 4. Go back to your original 5 strips. Cover the names and pick one. Smell. Do you recognize the fragrance? Repeat this with the other 4 scents. Familiarize yourself with your fragrances this way, until you can recognize each scent by name without looking at its bottle. “By their scent you will know them” …Jeanne Rose 1979

Step 5: Two hours later, go back to each strip. Pick one and smell. How has it changed?

Step 6: The next day, go back to each strip. Pick one and smell. Has it changed? How has it changed?

You are learning the effect of dry down on each scent and how it may operate in your finished perfume.

Step 7: Let your scents rest, if making a blend, let the take time to integrate and to become a perfume. This does not happen in the moments that it takes to mix a drop of this or a drop of that.

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TIME ~ It takes time to make a good perfume.

As George Askinson said, “It is not the number of oils that determines the fineness of a perfume, but the manner in which certain odors are combined”

. …Perfumes and Cosmetics — Their Preparation and Manufacture
By George W. Askinson, Dr. Chem.1865

The Entrance to Laurie Stern magical home perfumery – photo by JeanneRose

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